There’s a fair chance I may have exaggerated those numbers. It’s hard to tell because of differences in conditions, but, there is definitely a reduction in volume, no doubt.
CK5
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There’s a fair chance I may have exaggerated those numbers. It’s hard to tell because of differences in conditions, but, there is definitely a reduction in volume, no doubt.
I’ve been given the green light to return to Moab this September. Let the preparations begin.
Andy
Andy
Slapped some new quarter “fenders” on the truck yesterday. This is just an intermediate solution until I figure out how to go about rust repair, if at all. Nothing fancy. Just my typical sheet metal screws shenanigans.
And I finally pulled the trigger on a fluidampr. It’s going on as I have time during the day to do it.
The list gets shorter.
Andy
And I finally pulled the trigger on a fluidampr. It’s going on as I have time during the day to do it.
The list gets shorter.
Andy
Just pretend you are one of those Jeep guys adding "body armor" to the back of your rig. Nevermind what's under or behind it.
Might as well. My kids already tell me I drive a Jeep simply because my spare tire is on the back of the truck.
Heck, I thought it almost had kind of a neat look leaving it back even. I think the only thing I would do different is to use round head screws or rivets.
I started out with round screws but they weren’t quite long enough, so switched to the hex head. Just using what I had on hand. I may end up popping some rivenuts in and using stainless steel buttonheads. Will see.
I was thinking along the same lines as the Jeep armor. Not a bad idea.
If you don't need to go all the way above the body line, you could just embrace it and buy some thicker sheet and make it more like body armor.
I thought about all that too. This ended up being the shortest route to completion. But future iterations always have room for improvement.
It's cool the way it is. Why make it emulate a jeep?
If you used some 1/8" steel, you could do countersink screws for an even cleaner look.
It’s time.
Just parked the truck for the Rev2 transmission crossmember build.
That’ll get hammered out this weekend.
Then, a quick honey-do item and the truck gets a turbo.
HX35/H1C combo. 4911 pump. Vibrant intercooler. Bosch injectors. 60G glow plugs.
I’ll also be bringing my MBRP Quiet Tone muffler back into service. 3” downpipe to 4” all the way back using aluminized steel because stainless is just too pricey right now.
So if anyone is interested in a true dual exhaust system using 2.5” pipes, dual 3-foot-long Cherry Bomb glass packs, for a 6.2 or 6.5 NA Suburban, manifolds included, let me know.
It’s about time to get to work.
Andy
Just parked the truck for the Rev2 transmission crossmember build.
That’ll get hammered out this weekend.
Then, a quick honey-do item and the truck gets a turbo.
HX35/H1C combo. 4911 pump. Vibrant intercooler. Bosch injectors. 60G glow plugs.
I’ll also be bringing my MBRP Quiet Tone muffler back into service. 3” downpipe to 4” all the way back using aluminized steel because stainless is just too pricey right now.
So if anyone is interested in a true dual exhaust system using 2.5” pipes, dual 3-foot-long Cherry Bomb glass packs, for a 6.2 or 6.5 NA Suburban, manifolds included, let me know.
It’s about time to get to work.
Andy
I would use the new Bosch glow plugs.
They are a direct replacement and don't need time adjustment and they are self limiting meaning no mushroom head.
I’ll definitely keep this in mind for the next round. I’ve had these on the shelf waiting for 6 months now, so I figure I might as well use them.
Sneak peek of the new transmission/transfer case mount. My previous design also tied the two together, but with two bushings 6 inches apart, it was way too rigid. This single 2” bushing from ORD should keep things pretty flexible.
I goofed and didn’t realize that I was totally out of gas and the sole distributor of argon in NEFL is closed on the weekends. I have just enough to tack parts together so that’s all I’ll get done this weekend. It’s a busy week next week so this likely won’t get wrapped up until next weekend. Live and learn.
On to the crossmember.
Andy
I goofed and didn’t realize that I was totally out of gas and the sole distributor of argon in NEFL is closed on the weekends. I have just enough to tack parts together so that’s all I’ll get done this weekend. It’s a busy week next week so this likely won’t get wrapped up until next weekend. Live and learn.
On to the crossmember.
Andy
I’d say this makes for a pretty good day.
You can see where I’m going with the crossmember design. The intention is for the crossmember to cradle the 205 and double as a quasi skid plate.
Plans in place to add some gussets to the trans/tcase mount as well.
Andy
You can see where I’m going with the crossmember design. The intention is for the crossmember to cradle the 205 and double as a quasi skid plate.
Plans in place to add some gussets to the trans/tcase mount as well.
Andy
With a fresh can of argon, I got back to work yesterday.
The Rev2 trans/tcase crossmember is near complete.
All that’s left is to locate and burn in the 2” bushing mount. But that takes place after I complete the actual crossmember, which I’ll be working on today and tomorrow.
Andy
The Rev2 trans/tcase crossmember is near complete.
All that’s left is to locate and burn in the 2” bushing mount. But that takes place after I complete the actual crossmember, which I’ll be working on today and tomorrow.
Andy
2 things I am confused about.
First is the fact that you found argon in a can. Mine come in tanks.
Second is, what is the bar between the flanges below the adapter for? I thought that is what you were using for the bushing. But clearance would have been an issue with the drive shaft.
First is the fact that you found argon in a can. Mine come in tanks.
Second is, what is the bar between the flanges below the adapter for? I thought that is what you were using for the bushing. But clearance would have been an issue with the drive shaft.
2 things I am confused about.
First is the fact that you found argon in a can. Mine come in tanks.
Second is, what is the bar between the flanges below the adapter for? I thought that is what you were using for the bushing. But clearance would have been an issue with the drive shaft.
Can .. tank … you’re probably right.
I knew someone would ask about that.
That simply is nothing more than a grab handle. One more extra place that I can grab hold of and drag my fat bottom around while under the truck.
Just about this whole piece is made out of extra ORD parts, shock tabs, and scrap DOM I had on hand. I figured it was a handy use of the pre-drilled holes that came with those tabs.
