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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Overview Gallery Discussion
After talking with @Big Ray and @KirsL, I figure I’m alright with how I’ve installed this deflector. I have several months ahead of me before this thing is driving anyways, so I can come back to it later if I find another set of brackets and rubber well nuts. For now, I’ve got it mounted with matching round head bolts and I also got the roof strips installed too. I may have to come back later and put in new gaskets and thicker screws, but this will do for now.

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Andy
 
Yesterday was what we call a “Hero” Day. The 6.5, 4500, and Magnum 205 are in the truck. Even put the front clip on, and incurred a battle wound.

With 49% humidity and 96* and no shade, it was a hot hot hot day to do this work. But it’s done. Most of the work I did solo until my help showed up late afternoon at just the right time to help me realign the body to the frame. Opted to pull the frame out from the body bc I wasn’t comfortable using my too-short-for-my-truck transmission jack.


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Discovered I purchased the wrong clutch kit so the trans will have to come back out when I swap in the correct one. Big thanks to @Larry for helping me identify which one I need to get. And big thanks to @KirsL as always for answering my 1,000 questions.

Also will need to design and build a new transmission crossmember, since the one I built for my 700r4 clearly didn’t fit the 4500.

Gonna get a taller transmission jack and a canopy for shade before I tackle all that work though.

Until then, I have other projects to turn my attention to.


Andy
 
One thing I forgot to mention:

I swapped back to factory rubber engine mounts from the ORD competition mounts with the Kevlar-reinforced polyurethane. I remember when I first installed them on the last truck, I noticed a distinct and remarkable increase in cab vibrations just from the engine harmonics. Not an enjoyable feeling. So as an experiment, I’m switching back to rubber and will be utilizing rubber mounts for the new transmission crossmember too and trying out a dual mount system similar to what @Larry does with his rigs.

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Andy
 
AugustDiesel said:
One thing I forgot to mention:

I swapped back to factory rubber engine mounts from the ORD competition mounts with the Kevlar-reinforced polyurethane. I remember when I first installed them on the last truck, I noticed a distinct and remarkable increase in cab vibrations just from the engine harmonics. Not an enjoyable feeling. So as an experiment, I’m switching back to rubber and will be utilizing rubber mounts for the new transmission crossmember too and trying out a dual mount system similar to what @Larry does with his rigs.

View attachment 479624

Andy
Click to expand...
I have to say that if you go with the 2 mounts on the tcase and 2 at the engine and your frame is not stiff enough not to twist, it will put more pressure on the adapter.
The most safe setup is one on the tcase.
Even big rigs and equipment have 3 only, 2 engine and 1 transmission.
If you're worried about the strength of the assembly transmission/magnum/tcase, you can make a suffrage attaching all together rigidly and putting one mount on the end of it.
That is my plan for my suburban build for overland trips
 
imiceman44 said:
I have to say that if you go with the 2 mounts on the tcase and 2 at the engine and your frame is not stiff enough not to twist, it will put more pressure on the adapter.
The most safe setup is one on the tcase.
Even big rigs and equipment have 3 only, 2 engine and 1 transmission.
If you're worried about the strength of the assembly transmission/magnum/tcase, you can make a suffrage attaching all together rigidly and putting one mount on the end of it.
That is my plan for my suburban build for overland trips
Click to expand...

Oh when I said “two mounts” I didn’t mean two widely separated. It’s more of a cantilever type one in front of the other type of setup. Like I said, this is an experiment and I don’t have direct experience with this design yet, but I figure it’s worth a shot based on what I’ve heard. It suppose to reduce vibrations substantially. But to your point, the engine to trans mounting will still form a triangle, not a rectangle.

And the frame is definitely stiff.

Andy
 
AugustDiesel said:
Oh when I said “two mounts” I didn’t mean two widely separated. It’s more of a cantilever type one in front of the other type of setup. Like I said, this is an experiment and I don’t have direct experience with this design yet, but I figure it’s worth a shot based on what I’ve heard. It suppose to reduce vibrations substantially. But to your point, the engine to trans mounting will still form a triangle, not a rectangle.

And the frame is definitely stiff.

Andy
Click to expand...
So front to back to distribute the weight and reduce squish on the mounts?
That should work.
 
Because racecar


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One of the fun things about this project is that I’ve been collecting parts for YEARS and now that I’m finally building, everything is here and I get to just put them on. It almost feels like free parts. I’ve had these hood pins for I don’t know how long. Today, I finally put them in. Not 100% yet but they’re in.

Andy
 
AugustDiesel said:
Because racecar


View attachment 479690View attachment 479691


One of the fun things about this project is that I’ve been collecting parts for YEARS and now that I’m finally building, everything is here and I get to just put them on. It almost feels like free parts. I’ve had these hood pins for I don’t know how long. Today, I finally put them in. Not 100% yet but they’re in.

Andy
Click to expand...
I love my hood pins. Keeps the hood from fluttering going down the road.
 
imiceman44 said:
So front to back to distribute the weight and reduce squish on the mounts?
That should work.
Click to expand...
I did my magnum mount with 2 inline bushings. My thought was it would allow them to pivot with the frame. I suppose 1 might be enough but 2 seemed better. It's held up five for 6 years now.
 
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