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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Overview Gallery Discussion
Okay so let’s redirect this discussion back to the Dana 60, and talk about lockers and shafts. I’ll be ordering more parts in the coming weeks and want to nail down my parts list.

1. Lockers: my preference is the Ox locker. I had one in my Jeep and loved it. It was selectable, dependable and never left me stranded. It is, however, pricey. For the combined cost of the locker, shifter, and cable, I could purchase a spartan locker for the 60, a grizzly locker for the 14B, and a master overhaul kit for the 14B, all through ORD. Now, on the financially prudent side, that’s a no brainer. But, having a selectable front locker also has its value, and of the selectable lockers, I like the Ox the best. @AgDieseler, I know you have a Detroit in your 60, what are your thoughts on the driving characteristics, and would you do it differently? Also, would I need to upgrade to a hydro-assist steering or would I be fine with a heavy duty crossover system?

2. Shafts. I’m already planning on upgrading to the 35 spline outer stub shafts. My question is about the inner shafts. Do they really need to be upgraded to 4340? I’m running 33s right now, and will be going back to 37s within the next couple years. Is it good preventative maintenance to go ahead and upgrade or should I just wait until one breaks?

Thanks in advance,

Andy
 
The Detroit works extremely well, but I shift into front neutral a lot to allow the truck to turn easily. Unless you’re going to have front drive control in your transfer case, I would strongly favor a selectable locker.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
The Detroit works extremely well, but I shift into front neutral a lot to allow the truck to turn easily. Unless you’re going to have front drive control in your transfer case, I would strongly favor a selectable locker.

David
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That’s a good point. I do have ideas of upgrading to ORD’s 203/magnum doubler (like what you have), but that’s a long way off still. So a selectable is probably the best direction in the meantime.
 
AugustDiesel said:
Okay so let’s redirect this discussion back to the Dana 60, and talk about lockers and shafts. I’ll be ordering more parts in the coming weeks and want to nail down my parts list.

1. Lockers: my preference is the Ox locker. I had one in my Jeep and loved it. It was selectable, dependable and never left me stranded. It is, however, pricey. For the combined cost of the locker, shifter, and cable, I could purchase a spartan locker for the 60, a grizzly locker for the 14B, and a master overhaul kit for the 14B, all through ORD. Now, on the financially prudent side, that’s a no brainer. But, having a selectable front locker also has its value, and of the selectable lockers, I like the Ox the best. @AgDieseler, I know you have a Detroit in your 60, what are your thoughts on the driving characteristics, and would you do it differently? Also, would I need to upgrade to a hydro-assist steering or would I be fine with a heavy duty crossover system?

2. Shafts. I’m already planning on upgrading to the 35 spline outer stub shafts. My question is about the inner shafts. Do they really need to be upgraded to 4340? I’m running 33s right now, and will be going back to 37s within the next couple years. Is it good preventative maintenance to go ahead and upgrade or should I just wait until one breaks?

Thanks in advance,

Andy
Click to expand...
Nobody is going to like my answer but upgrading your shafts to anything other than cv shafts is a waste of money.
The problem is that the ones for a d60 are extremely expensive $2650 but will make the axle almost indestructible the weak point will become the gears or the hubs. Rcp shafts is the only one I know of and I am staying with a d44 with those shafts which are $1500 and will make it as strong as a d60 stock.
The problem with a single ujoint for steering the ujoint is not spinning in a circular motion but an elliptical motion which stretches the ears on the shaft.
You make the shaft stronger and something has to give and if the ujoint gives you still destroy the shaft. And if the ujoint is strong enough it will still break the 4340 shafts.
It's just a bad design.
 
imiceman44 said:
Nobody is going to like my answer but upgrading your shafts to anything other than cv shafts is a waste of money.
The problem is that the ones for a d60 are extremely expensive $2650 but will make the axle almost indestructible the weak point will become the gears or the hubs. Rcp shafts is the only one I know of and I am staying with a d44 with those shafts which are $1500 and will make it as strong as a d60 stock.
The problem with a single ujoint for steering the ujoint is not spinning in a circular motion but an elliptical motion which stretches the ears on the shaft.
You make the shaft stronger and something has to give and if the ujoint gives you still destroy the shaft. And if the ujoint is strong enough it will still break the 4340 shafts.
It's just a bad design.
Click to expand...

That’s actually leaning in the direction of what I was hoping for. Especially if I go with a selectable locker, which I probably will.
 
AugustDiesel said:
That’s actually leaning in the direction of what I was hoping for. Especially if I go with a selectable locker, which I probably will.
Click to expand...
I will be running rcp shafts on my suburban wheeler with a d44 and leave my d60 stock for the crew cab with the smaller tires for the higher weight capacity.
It defies the logic of most people but it is the best option.
Now if I have a lot of money then both would be d60 rcp axle shafts and selectable lockers
 
imiceman44 said:
I will be running rcp shafts on my suburban wheeler with a d44 and leave my d60 stock for the crew cab with the smaller tires for the higher weight capacity.
It defies the logic of most people but it is the best option.
Now if I have a lot of money then both would be d60 rcp axle shafts and selectable lockers
Click to expand...

If I had a lot of money ... meh, no point in day dreaming.
 
AugustDiesel said:
If I had a lot of money ... meh, no point in day dreaming.
Click to expand...

This. There are plenty of people running 37s on stock D60 parts. There are even people running 37s on stock open-carrier front 10-bolts. Don't overthink it. This isn't a dedicated rock crawling rig, you don't need to add shiny to every corner of the drivetrain. Keep the upgrades useful and realistic, so you don't get endlessly distracted along the way.
 
You've done a great job lately of accomplishing things left and right. But I keep this picture around for day-dreamy moments like this:

squirrel.jpg
 
I ran 38.5's and an open diff D44 for a couple years. I just watched my throttle and made sure I wasn't getting bound up and never broke. Now the same axle with 37's, I broke 3 times lol. I had more confidence in the 37's 44 combo and was rougher.
 
Well I’m learning something today.

The crank is not as hard to turn as I thought. In fact I can’t get it to stop turning as I try to get the HB pulley off! Wish I knew that as I was inspecting my mains. Oh well, I was too tired then. I’ll know better the next time I replace the oil pan gasket. Now to get this pulley and HB off ...
 
kgblazerfive said:
I have a Spartan in my 60 like it a lot, no issues, price is right. Have never had an issue trying to turn with it. The internals on my 60, other then that, are stock and I run 40's. Rig is rather light as well, but still a Sub.
Click to expand...

Do you have hydro assist or anything like that?
 
So I have the HB off, helps to have the right tools. Kudos to Leroy Diesel and his rental kit.

However, I think I have the wrong part. The shaft on the new balancer is longer than the old one. Will this be a problem? Ive got to figure out whether or not I bought one for a 6.5 or 6.2 and if that makes any difference.

E713BF4F-4965-4702-99CD-6D98E0CBD2F0.jpeg 48D395B6-BC17-411C-BEDD-EB7CEA56A5E5.jpeg 18F95B48-5D87-4E72-86AD-E38C2531FEE5.jpeg
 
AugustDiesel said:
So I have the HB off, helps to have the right tools. Kudos to Leroy Diesel and his rental kit.

However, I think I have the wrong part. The shaft on the new balancer is longer than the old one. Will this be a problem? Ive got to figure out whether or not I bought one for a 6.5 or 6.2 and if that makes any difference.

View attachment 294492 View attachment 294493 View attachment 294494
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I didn't realize there was a difference, but you bought a 6.2 balancer. The catalog pictures for a '96 6.5TD HB match your old one with the shorter seal area. Will they interchange? I'm betting not. Measure the depth of the key way. That's the surface pinched between the crankshaft boss and the bolt head. It looks like your old one is significantly shorter than the new one, so the bolt/crank mounting surface won't be deep enough to receive it. Even if the bolt head could be appropriately recessed into the new balancer, your pulley offset would be wrong. Which is not a recipe for happiness.
 
Okay so I did some research.

The HB I purchased is part #14022671, which is for a 6.2 Diesel.

The HB I just pulled is part # 10154688, which is for a 6.5 Diesel.

That of course makes sense. I have a 6.5 Diesel, so that’s what I jWould have never thought that the shafts would be different sizes, especially when all of the 6.2 accessories are suppose to work on the 6.5 Goodwrench block.

Oh well. Good news is the 6.5 HB is half the cost of the 6.2. So I save a little $$$.
 
The tool looks handy. I just used a pipe wrench to secure my balancer. I've also used a pry bar on the flywheel, but that requires a second person.
 
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