@AgDieseler, it looks like the pulley offset and the seal lip are both non-interchangeable between the two designs. How did you mix & match on your serpentine setup? Is your aftermarket crankshaft set up for a 6.2 balancer or a 6.5 balancer?
CK5
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What part of this spec list makes a shift kit a bad idea? This list is fairly similar to how my old 700R4 was built, and I don't recall the shift kit causing any problems.
Personally, I liked the firm shifts.
I didn’t even see that tool until I had the pulley off. Lol. I’m sure it will come in handy during installation.
What part of this spec list makes a shift kit a bad idea? This list is fairly similar to how my old 700R4 was built, and I don't recall the shift kit causing any problems.
Personally, I liked the firm shifts.
Not a bad idea. Just not completely necessary.
So I went back and measured (as best I could) the crankshaft against the new HB shaft. Looks like I have a bit of room ...
And interestingly enough, the depths appear to be the same. Maybe the 6.2 HB will work on the 6.5?
And interestingly enough, the depths appear to be the same. Maybe the 6.2 HB will work on the 6.5?
Seems to me like the 6.2 balancer will have more surface area coverage, which technically would be a positive thing, correct?
I just have a plain old 6.2 crank, with a regular stock replacement 6.2 harmonic balancer and ordinary 6.5 serpentine crank pulley. It was a very easy mix and match, and didn't cost too much.
David
What I’ve figured so far is that the 6.2 HB has a 3/4” shaft, the 6.5 HB has a 1.5” shaft, and the crank protrudes from the block about 1.5”. Seems to me like this should work. Am I wrong?
Either way, I’ve got some time to figure this out, because I forgot to order the crank seal, which I just did, and it’ll be here Wednesday. So tomorrow I will probably focus on reinstalling my injector lines.
The measurements are the important part. If they match, bolt it up as a final check. I'd bolt it up now, before changing the seal, just in case it doesn't match (so you don't pinch the new seal). Oil the sealing surface before installation.
I don't understand why the shorter balancer isn't bottoming out against the crank boss. Seems like it could freely slide inward and wreck the seal if it's not hitting anything on the inside. I know it SEEMS like it takes a million pounds of force to budge the balancer, but it's not really that hard to slide on and off when it's new and shiny. So I would have thought it got a solid boss to press against. Which is why I reasoned that the crank should be different to match the shorter seal surface.
Those pictures match my recollection of my 6.2 engines.
That's what I would have expected. But I never got around to bolting on my serpentine gear. It's still sitting in a box...
I’ll make a deal with you: I’ll put it on tomorrow. Still before the new seal arrives, just not now, because it’s time for me to put my CPAP machine to good use (for the first time).
I will say, I was surprised at how simple the removal process was for the HB. I had previously (ignorantly) considered this project to be one of the more difficult ones, and was proven wrong.
It's kindof a pain to get to it in the cramped engine bay, with the belt system, fan, and radiator shroud restricting access from the top. But that's the only snag. It's a really easy thing to change on the engine stand. Torquing that bolt by yourself can get tricky.
I actually had a relatively decent time accessing it from the bottom lying on my back. No access issues from down there, just had to keep my head clear so I didn’t get a cracked skull when it fell. That would be a step in the wrong direction.
Okay so I have uncovered some good information.
The 6.5 balancer is 3/4" shorter because there is suppose to be a reluctor wheel behind the balancer for the crank position sensor. I, however, do not appear to have any of this, even though I have a 6.5 block, because, I also have a DB2 mechanical injection pump, so there is no need for either the CPS or reluctor wheel, so my 6.5 block should be getting the 6.2 balancer with the 1.5" shaft, NOT the 6.5 balancer with the .75" shaft. So, either my block was not equipped with the reluctor wheel, or it was removed by a PO at some point in the past, and the incorrect 6.5 balancer was installed less the reluctor wheel.
Glad I decided to replace the balancer. Otherwise, I would never have discovered this and who knows what kind of problems I would have had if I kept running the wrong balancer.
Confirmed with Leroy Diesel that if the 6.5 block does not have a reluctor wheel then I should be using the 6.2 balancer.
YES! I love it when situations have a logical answer.
That would also explain why I didn't encounter this when working on my '93 6.5TD.
YES! I love it when situations have a logical answer.
That would also explain why I didn't encounter this when working on my '93 6.5TD.
It definitely took some research. It’s easy to say “a 6.5 block needs a 6.5 balancer”, but I needed to know WHY the shafts were different lengths because it just didn’t make sense to me. Turns out it was a good time investment, especially with my application of hodge/podge mix/matched parts!!
YES! I love it when situations have a logical answer.
That would also explain why I didn't encounter this when working on my '93 6.5TD.
I may not be totally out of the woods yet. Did some additional research. According to this photo(not my engine), the reluctor wheel installs behind the timing gear cover (y’all probably already knows that).
Then, according to this diagram, the CPS is located in between bolts number 1 & 2 of the timing cover on the driver side.
Now, according to this shot of that same area on MY engine, I DONT have a CPS but it does look like there’s a port for it.
So at this point, I am still uncertain as to whether or not I have a reluctor wheel.
Don’t know if this makes a difference, but I DO notice that the alignment key on the crank of my engine is NOT full length like the one on the sample image shown above. Maybe that will tell us something ...
Eureka ... sort of ...
I DO have a reluctor wheel.
Was having the darndest time trying to figure out how I would figure it out. Was starting to think I would have to remove the timing cover, then it hit me: I took several pictures of the crank while I had the oil pan off. So I went looking, and sure enough, there it was:
Still seems like there’s enough room to put the 6.2 balancer on the 6.5 crank, but alas, I must follow instructions. It’s a 6.5 block, with a 6.5 crank, with a 6.5 reluctor, so it requires a 6.5 balancer.
Great. Now I get to return this one and wait for the right one.
Thanks for putting up with and sorry for all my newbie ignorance ...
I DO have a reluctor wheel.
Was having the darndest time trying to figure out how I would figure it out. Was starting to think I would have to remove the timing cover, then it hit me: I took several pictures of the crank while I had the oil pan off. So I went looking, and sure enough, there it was:
Still seems like there’s enough room to put the 6.2 balancer on the 6.5 crank, but alas, I must follow instructions. It’s a 6.5 block, with a 6.5 crank, with a 6.5 reluctor, so it requires a 6.5 balancer.
Great. Now I get to return this one and wait for the right one.
Thanks for putting up with and sorry for all my newbie ignorance ...
I like your critical thinking process to get the correct conclusion. I go back to pictures all the time to see if I can find what I need. It always helps!
I kind of have a headache after all that critical thinking, but I’m sure it will pay off.
