CK5
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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Air filter is pretty much brand new. I put it on a couple months ago. It’s a K&N cone filter clamped on to the end of an M998 air intake horn.

As for the fuel filter. I haven’t touched it since I bought the truck 2.5 years ago. It’s an aftermarket Racor unit, so I don’t know much about it.

You should be good on the air filter.

I would change that fuel filter before your trip. Thats definitely causing a restriction. If it has a number on it still. Napa should be be able to cross reference it for you.
 
You should be good on the air filter.

I would change that fuel filter before your trip. Thats definitely causing a restriction. If it has a number on it still. Napa should be be able to cross reference it for you.

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Yeah it’s still got a number on it. I’ll see if NAPA has a replacement.
 
So I finally read through this. You've done a ton of work to this.



Ok, now I know it was a spike but 1400 is way way too hot for a 6.5. You're probably lugging the engine too hard. These are not fans of lugging like a Cummins is. Let it drop a gear and rev, it'll be much happier.

The most you ideally would see is 1100 and that's for a turbo version. NA really shouldn't go much over 1000.

You were right about this. Crossing a different (but still steep) bridge this morning. Kept the torque converter locked, slowed to 60mph, dropped it into 3rd, RPMs shot up, but the EGTs did not go over 1000 degrees.

Very interesting. I learned something new.
 
You were right about this. Crossing a different (but still steep) bridge this morning. Kept the torque converter locked, slowed to 60mph, dropped it into 3rd, RPMs shot up, but the EGTs did not go over 1000 degrees.

Very interesting. I learned something new.

These engines like to rev, so don't be afraid to let it.
 
Just remember to prefill the filter before installing it. I usually just use a fuel additive to fill them. Should prevent an airlock from happening.

Okay NAPA has them, I’ll try to pick one up later this afternoon and install it tonight. Time is pretty tight. Nothing like last minute work!

To familiarize myself with the process, I watched a YouTube video on how to install it on a boat. Seems pretty similar to installing an oil filter. Lube the gaskets on top and bottom, transfer the bowl from the old filter to the new filter, reinstall.

In the boat video, they talk about priming the fuel system. But this would be the boat-equivalent to your suggestion to prefill the filter with additive, correct?

Anything else I need to know before getting into this?

Here is the video I found:

 
Anything else I need to know before getting into this?

Regardless of whether you prefill the filter, there will be some air in the top of the housing. So you still should prime the system prior to starting.

I don't remember if you have an electric lift pump (which makes this easy). If not, disconnect the pink wire on the I.P. and crank the engine until you're sure that fuel has reached the I.P.

If you have an electric pump, prefilling the filter isn't really needed. The pump will do it for you.
 
Regardless of whether you prefill the filter, there will be some air in the top of the housing. So you still should prime the system prior to starting.

I don't remember if you have an electric lift pump (which makes this easy). If not, disconnect the pink wire on the I.P. and crank the engine until you're sure that fuel has reached the I.P.

If you have an electric pump, prefilling the filter isn't really needed. The pump will do it for you.

I always thought I had a mechanical db2 pump, but it appears there is said pink wire connected. So maybe it’s electric afterall.

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Went ahead and got the filter, but haven’t had a chance to compare it to the Racor filter. At this point, unless someone suggests otherwise, I think it may be best to leave the Racor on, and bring the Napa as a backup, if it even fits. It’s way longer than the Racor (not sure there is even enough room for the length of it), doesn’t have the provision for the bowl at the bottom, and looks like it might be bigger around than the Racor. We will see when I get home. If nothing else, I’ll order a Racor to put on when I get back.

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I always thought I had a mechanical db2 pump, but it appears there is said pink wire connected. So maybe it’s electric afterall.

View attachment 302194

Clarification...I was talking about an electric LIFT pump, not an electronic injection pump. You have a DB2. The pink wire energizes the fuel solenoid. With 12V, the engine gets fuel. Without 12V, the engine gets no fuel. If you leave this un-energized while cranking, the mechanical lift pump will pump any air bubbles back to the fuel tank via the overflow line. If you energize the fuel solenoid while pumping air bubbles through AND while the engine is rotating, the air bubbles will get pumped into the 8 injector lines, which are significantly harder to bleed. You either wind up cracking the lines open or trying to push air bubbles out through the poppet valves.

The green wire on the housing controls a solenoid that advances the timing, and it's paired with the cold idle advance solenoid mounted to the throttle cable bracket. These are controlled by that temperature switch toward the rear of the passenger-side head.
 
There is an earlier iteration of this injection pump that is 100% mechanical, marketed under the name "Roosa Master." It was used for tractor engines and requires a mechanical lever to shut off the fuel supply. Personally, I like having an electric shutoff solenoid on a street vehicle. Manual shutoff levers are a pain to explain to people used to driving "normal" vehicles... :rolleyes:
 
Clarification...I was talking about an electric LIFT pump, not an electronic injection pump. You have a DB2. The pink wire energizes the fuel solenoid. With 12V, the engine gets fuel. Without 12V, the engine gets no fuel. If you leave this un-energized while cranking, the mechanical lift pump will pump any air bubbles back to the fuel tank via the overflow line. If you energize the fuel solenoid while pumping air bubbles through AND while the engine is rotating, the air bubbles will get pumped into the 8 injector lines, which are significantly harder to bleed. You either wind up cracking the lines open or trying to push air bubbles out through the poppet valves.

The green wire on the housing controls a solenoid that advances the timing, and it's paired with the cold idle advance solenoid mounted to the throttle cable bracket. These are controlled by that temperature switch toward the rear of the passenger-side head.

There is an earlier iteration of this injection pump that is 100% mechanical, marketed under the name "Roosa Master." It was used for tractor engines and requires a mechanical lever to shut off the fuel supply. Personally, I like having an electric shutoff solenoid on a street vehicle. Manual shutoff levers are a pain to explain to people used to driving "normal" vehicles... :rolleyes:

That’s really useful information. I’m always learning.

My thoughts? It isn't an exact replacement.

Take it back and trade it for something that is an exact fit.

It most certainly is not an exact replacement. It’s not even a useable replacement. It’s HUGE. Almost twice the size in diameter and length.

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I kind of suspected this but wasn’t sure about the diameter. It’ll definitely get returned. I even told the guy, “I’ll go ahead and take it but something tells me I’m not going to be using it.”

I showed the guy a picture of what I was looking for and they just didn’t have it. And at this point, they are closed for the day. We leave early in the morning tomorrow.

@KirsL i gave it my best last minute shot, lol.

I’ll return this after we get back, and get an exact replacement on order to install once we are home.
 
We’ve had a successful trip so far. No issues with the truck on the way down. It ran like a top.

Disney is exhausting, but it’s for the kids so it’s worth it.

My portion of the trip was on the way down, exploring the Old Brick Road.

For a refresher, here is the link to the article about it:

https://floridatraveler.com/florida...dD48RFA1K4bZUA1UY-2SVQN5WiO5HeVrd83YdrsZVVato

And as requested by @campfire , I took lots of photos and videos. Probably too much, so I’ve pared-down the photos and made a single combined video that’s about a minute and a half.

As indicated in the article, there’s nothing off-road-worthy about it. It’s a 103-year-old brick road that has been mostly covered over by dirt and sand. But, still neat to explore a little bit of history that’s practically in my backyard.

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At the start, you can’t really see many of the bricks, but they become more apparent as you go along. It’s about a 10 mile stretch of road, so it takes a little while driving slow.

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Lots of tropical jungle scenery!

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It was pretty cool to see the old engravings in the bricks, and even the concrete block sidewalls still intact.

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Took lots of photos of the 30-year-old truck on the 103-year-old brick road. A nice sampling of American history.

C905CDF9-FD48-442F-992E-D3AB683B8ECA.jpeg E704F865-9484-40F4-83B5-8E8A99A066C3.jpeg 9388C1D7-A877-4B65-B54E-3EE446096669.jpeg C3BE196E-AAEA-4D50-A2E7-4E622A0E4C83.jpeg E99DFE9D-0B2F-4206-A776-01CD5B1532B5.jpeg E6CD17F6-2995-49FE-B169-65014B75FDD6.jpeg 65927D4F-4F0C-4A44-B3EE-9D2516E83CC7.jpeg

Mickey and Pluto had to stop to say hello to the local peacock:

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More to come...
 
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After that, it was time to head out and continue on our way.

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We had a warning on our way out to leave behind what wasn’t ours. We were happy to oblige.

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Here’s the video I put together. Not much about it other than lots of scenery and diesel rattle. If there were any rattle snakes around, I would’ve never known unless I got too close. But I did keep an eye out.


The best part about Disney World is that bedtime is super easy.

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That’s all I’ve got for now. We head back home Friday. Vacations are a great time for reflection and getting recentered on what’s important.

Andy
 

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