The engine is definitely not acting any differently, so I agree there is a short somewhere.
CK5
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The engine is definitely not acting any differently, so I agree there is a short somewhere.
Have a question for you all, have done some research but most information I’m finding is old and not sure if it’s credbile anymore, but what, if any, kind of diesel fuel additive are you using? Doesn’t get warm enough here in Florida to be concerned about fuel gelling, but I want to take good care of my engine and want to make sure it’s getting adequate lubrications. So just use the OTC Stanadyne or Amsoil stuff or something else?
Thanks in advance.
Andy
Thanks in advance.
Andy
I ran two-stroke oil in my 7.3 IDI which helped quiet it down some. TCW3 spec is what I’d heard people say to use so I did. I usually put a quart in each tank (about 20 gallons). That mixture ratio was just a number I came in with nothing special
My strategy is just to replace the injection pump with every other oil change. Works every time.
If you look for "diesel lubricity study," you should find a report from a reasonably scientific study, published a decade ago over on thedieselplace.com. They blind tested several additives and ranked the outcomes. They did say, at that time, 2-cycle oil was the cheapest way to get a passing lubrication measurement. More was required, but it was cheaper than dedicated diesel additives and outperformed several of them.
I found an archived copy here, but there used to be a thread collecting other similar test data.
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
That’s too rich for my blood. Lol.
Thanks for that. Extremely helpful. I’m thinking, per that study, the Opti-lube XPD May be the best option.
I'm in the middle of replacing one, that I haven't put many miles on. that's why I mention it.
Howe’s and Stanadyne are what I’ve heard to be the best. I’ve only ran Howe’s.
Going to give the Opti-lube XPD a try, based on the report provided. Will arrive on Friday.
Thanks for all the input!
Thanks for all the input!
Stanadyne is a good one my brother-in-law ran it every tank in the Cummins I have now for ten years. A lot of them are the same or real similar. I used to run some actual Ford Powerstoke additive I got from work and it smelled exactly the same as the Power Service Diesel stuff. Anything will help add lubricity back to the fuel. I've ran atf, clean used hyd oil, clean used transformer oil, new engine oil. There's some stuff called "Drew's Brew" I read about once. It's 8 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and 16 oz of Power Service mixed together and added to each tank of fuel. I had good results with it but you have to be religious about running it every single tank otherwise you get bad results for fuel economy.
So my wife drove the truck tonight for the first time since I bought the truck. I figured that was significant because it indicates I trust the truck to take care of my girl. 
I run stanadyne lubricity in the summer and performance in the winter. Stanadyne is available everywhere as optilube you have to order in. In my old lb7 I ran Howe’s and it worked fine, I just like the smaller bottles of stanadyne. That and stanadyne is the only approved additive for the dmax.
Opti-lube XPD delivered and added to the recently filled tank. Will see how it does. Have been getting 14-15 mpg. Interested to see what difference this makes.
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Continuing work on the battery box. Got to cut one more hole on the front face for another outlet, install studs/drill corresponding holes/get wing nuts for securing the box, and then Herculine ...
The on/off switch is a remote switch for the power inverter, the socket next to it provides 2 outlets and 2 USB ports for camping/RV-type utility, and the outlet that will go on the front face will be an easy-access outlet for power tools.
Andy
The on/off switch is a remote switch for the power inverter, the socket next to it provides 2 outlets and 2 USB ports for camping/RV-type utility, and the outlet that will go on the front face will be an easy-access outlet for power tools.
Andy
Got to thinking about it, and wasn’t sure why I was planning on herculining the underside of the box when it was never going to be seen or really even need it, so last night it got some spray paint. About to herculine the top side here in a few.
First coat done. Will let it get tacky then apply a second coat, will let dry over night then should be ready to have accessories added.
Second coat should hopefully cover the seams good.
Second coat should hopefully cover the seams good.
Second coat done. Don’t anticipate needing a 3rd coat. Hopefully will cure and dry enough to be ready for completion and install by midday tomorrow in time for my 1-nighter camping trip. Will see.
Nice work sir!
Thank you, not quite as slick as @AgDieseler ’s box, but it should suit my purposes just fine. Someday I plan on building a steel rendition once I get my welding skills up.
Catching up, and enjoying the work you’re doing.
David
220 was my top end, too, before the updated radiator. The 130gpm pump, dual thermostats, a big fan, and the dual pass keeps everything steady at 210 while running 2700 in 3rd and cresting the pass at 55mph. These engines make a lot of heat, and it took a race car radiator to keep it cool.
You’ll enjoy the process and the payoff.
I agree. The noise break over is significant from 1800 to 2200, as is the mpg hit.
If I ran my 37s with a big stinking turbo and intercooler, I’d run 4.56s at the max. With enough air, the engine will build torque nicely as boost catches up on a grade in the 1800-2100 range, and you have room to downshift and use 3rd at 2500-2800.
Everything has a rev level, and this box you’ve made seems to work very well.
David
