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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Overview Gallery Discussion
AgDieseler said:
Great solution for the intake. When is first fire?

David
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First fire should be Thursday, now that I have the brake booster problem resolved. Will have enough time tomorrow to prime the PS pump and tighten the pulleys, but that’s it. Doesn’t leave me much time for troubleshooting any issues that arise before Friday’s trip, but I guess I’ll either have faith that I did everything else right and everything will work the way it is suppose to, or I will drive the in-laws truck...
 
campfire said:
Those answers I'm much more confident about. '84 got the new column & electrical changes ('83 was the last year you could stomp for high beams :(). The transmission standardization, W-style cross-member, 32-spline NP205, and hydraulic clutch are 1985 upgrades. UNLESS YOU HAVE A CUCV. All CUCVs are 1984 models, regardless of when they were produced. This is a minor pain if you ever decide to put an NV4500 into your M1009. ;)


The later you go in the squarebody catalog, the more parts start interchanging with GMT400 rigs. A 1991 Suburban is much closer in tech to its roundbody counterpart than to the original 1973 squarebody that it descended from. Carbureted 292 inline 6, manual clutch linkage, short-body 3-speed saginaw transmission, NP203, full-time D44 front axle, 12-bolt rear axle, round headlights, wiper switch on the dashboard, stomping for high beams, 2-knob radio...you won't find any of that in a 1991 square. Lots of stuff changed during the 19 years these trucks were produced.

If Martin were still here he'd fill in a bunch more things that I forgot about.
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Oh I can fill in on lots of the variations like the 74 only year the 203 went on all vehicles, 1980 205 went on all vehicles.
All being slip yoke.
I have parted more trucks than most people here have owned in a lifetime I just have been out of the game for 10 years, some of the years are a little fuzzy.
 
Well, while y’all have been carrying on your debate (which has been rather educational), time and weather have been on my side.

The PS pump is primed.

The belts are tightened.

The batteries are charging.

CBC32B5E-6D87-4E49-8D8E-36E04A83A77F.jpeg
1CC44E20-F9E4-40B1-A13A-851C52B8459F.jpeg

All that’s left is to top off the trans, engine, and coolant, and bleed the PS/HB system and fuel lines, which will happen simultaneously.

First fire will be at lunch time today.

123782AA-EB81-4436-9C24-25F8DFA520C0.jpeg

Andy
 
AugustDiesel said:
Well, while y’all have been carrying on your debate (which has been rather educational), time and weather have been on my side.

The PS pump is primed.

The belts are tightened.

The batteries are charging.

View attachment 295391
View attachment 295392

All that’s left is to top off the trans, engine, and coolant, and bleed the PS/HB system and fuel lines, which will happen simultaneously.

First fire will be at lunch time today.

View attachment 295393

Andy
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Fingers crossed
 
AugustDiesel said:
You’re tellin’ me.

I keep running through everything in my head trying to make sure I haven’t missed anything.

The anticipation is real.
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I am going to my suburban to try and finish hooking up the engine.
I hate having it 1 hour away but I ran out of storage room and it sat there for 9 years so it was a good idea
 
Well so far no luck.

Not sure if my batteries don’t have enough juice or if there’s not enough fuel getting to the engine.

I can only get access to two of the injector lines at the injector to loosen and bleed fuel as you recommended @campfire , the intake manifold blocks access to the rest of them.


Am I going to have to remove the intake manifold to get access to more injector lines, or is there something else I should be trying?
 
I will add that the two injector lines that I did loosen began leaking as soon as I cracked them open. Not sure if that means anything.
 
AugustDiesel said:
Well so far no luck.

Not sure if my batteries don’t have enough juice or if there’s not enough fuel getting to the engine.

I can only get access to two of the injector lines at the injector to loosen and bleed fuel as you recommended @campfire , the intake manifold blocks access to the rest of them.


Am I going to have to remove the intake manifold to get access to more injector lines, or is there something else I should be trying?
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All 8 injectors should be accessible. You shouldn't need anything more than an open ended 3/4" wrench. Once you have fuel at the end of the lines, tighten them up. Those cylinders should then start firing.

The injectors are on the outboard side of the head. Removing the intake manifold won't help with that.
 
campfire said:
All 8 injectors should be accessible. You shouldn't need anything more than an open ended 3/4" wrench. Once you have fuel at the end of the lines, tighten them up. Those cylinders should then start firing.

The injectors are on the outboard side of the head. Removing the intake manifold won't help with that.
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Okay, I completely misunderstood what you said earlier. You said “injector end of the lines” and I read “injector pump end of the lines” ....

:thinking:

Dang. Missed my chance to get it done this afternoon then.

Oh well. If the weather holds out, I might be able to get to it tonight. But I doubt it. It will probably be lunch time tomorrow or even later after work.
 
AugustDiesel said:
Okay, I completely misunderstood what you said earlier. You said “injector end of the lines” and I read “injector pump end of the lines” ....
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Yes. The goal is to get fuel (and no air) aaaaaaallllllllll the way out to the injectors. It's a piston-based pump feeding poppet injectors. Just like a brake system, if there's air in the line it's easier to compress the air than to open the poppet. By bleeding out the lines you eliminate that issue.

Unlike a brake system, this one will finish purging itself as long as you get it close enough to allow the engine to run. If you had a stick shift you could just tow it until it started.
 
Well, now that I’m reading you correctly, I DID run out and crack 6 injectors until fuel was bleeding from all 6. However, at this point my batteries don’t have enough juice to finish the job. So going to have to let it charge for probably quite a while until it’s charge is full.
 
campfire said:
Yes. The goal is to get fuel (and no air) aaaaaaallllllllll the way out to the injectors. It's a piston-based pump feeding poppet injectors. Just like a brake system, if there's air in the line it's easier to compress the air than to open the poppet. By bleeding out the lines you eliminate that issue.

Unlike a brake system, this one will finish purging itself as long as you get it close enough to allow the engine to run. If you had a stick shift you could just tow it until it started.
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It makes sense now that I think about it
 
AugustDiesel said:
Well, now that I’m reading you correctly, I DID run out and crack 6 injectors until fuel was bleeding from all 6. However, at this point my batteries don’t have enough juice to finish the job. So going to have to let it charge for probably quite a while until it’s charge is full.
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That's understandable. The good news is that you're probably close if fuel has reached 6 injectors.

You have tested your new GP system, yes?
 
campfire said:
That's understandable. The good news is that you're probably close if fuel has reached 6 injectors.

You have tested your new GP system, yes?
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Yep. It’s actually not a new system. I did that upgrade back in July of last year and have not had any issues with it. Has been the most reliable GP system I’ve ever had. Combined with 60G plugs.
 
Batteries are fully charged. However got to go into the office this morning so it will be this afternoon before I can attempt to fire it again.
 
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