That cleaned up nicely.
I agree, at first I was thinking, he's going to weld that ugly bugger weld to the new pipe? And then it wasn't even recognizable, looked brand new with a nice weld, good work!
CK5
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I agree, at first I was thinking, he's going to weld that ugly bugger weld to the new pipe? And then it wasn't even recognizable, looked brand new with a nice weld, good work!
That cleaned up nicely.
Thanks guys. I kinda feel like that little detail really highlights the experience I’ve had recently with metal-working and the comfort level I’ve achieved with the welder. I remember a day when reusing a boogered up and nearly ruined bung wouldn’t have seemed fathomable.
Put about 70 miles on the truck today. But when I got home, I found this:
Thoughts on what it could be? Flywheel appears to be dry as best as I can tell. But there’s a lot of oil on the pan, there’s oil on the bell housing, and the starter.
Thoughts on what it could be? Flywheel appears to be dry as best as I can tell. But there’s a lot of oil on the pan, there’s oil on the bell housing, and the starter.
That sucks. Looks like where oil pan seals against rear main cap.
That’s what I was thinking too, but how would the oil then get up on the bellhousing?
Between the flex plate and airflow, magic things happen
I’ll bet a bag of Cheetos it’s that pan/seal joint like @Fastereddie said
I’ll bet a bag of Cheetos it’s that pan/seal joint like @Fastereddie said
Guess I’m not that lucky.
These aren't the best photos ever, but clearly indicative that it's the rear main seal. I used a boroscope camera to take a look, and it’s seeping oil at the bottom. I also took a coat hanger and did a cotton swab and pulled some oil off, which further convicts the culprit.
Not sure why it’s leaking, and worse than before, but my guess would be faulty installation (I’m going to have to fire that guy).
Question is, what, in the 9 days I have left, do I do about it. I’m tempted to say screw it and leave it, but considering that it wasn’t leaking during my initial 1-mile test drives and now it is, makes me think it’s progressive. Maybe I’m wrong.
The other thought is, after having done it, I’m fairly confident that I could do it in a day with an extra set of hands and could be the weekend’s project.
This much I know, I’m probably the only guy ever to have to do a rear main seal twice in the same job.
These aren't the best photos ever, but clearly indicative that it's the rear main seal. I used a boroscope camera to take a look, and it’s seeping oil at the bottom. I also took a coat hanger and did a cotton swab and pulled some oil off, which further convicts the culprit.
Not sure why it’s leaking, and worse than before, but my guess would be faulty installation (I’m going to have to fire that guy).
Question is, what, in the 9 days I have left, do I do about it. I’m tempted to say screw it and leave it, but considering that it wasn’t leaking during my initial 1-mile test drives and now it is, makes me think it’s progressive. Maybe I’m wrong.
The other thought is, after having done it, I’m fairly confident that I could do it in a day with an extra set of hands and could be the weekend’s project.
This much I know, I’m probably the only guy ever to have to do a rear main seal twice in the same job.
Yeah, I need to just put some miles on it and see what happens. It's worth noting that I just drove it to take my son to school, only about 9 miles, but lots of stop and go traffic, and the rear main didn't leak. probably the oil didn’t get hot enough to leak, but maybe the seal just needed to reseat itself. I’ll drive it some more and see what happens
Drops are one thing, puddles are a whole other animal. Drive it and see which one you got. If it's running out you need to fix it.
Fair point, so far no drops or puddles on the ground. Just oil on the back of the pan, top of the bellhousing, and a little sprayed onto the transmission crossmember. But nothing on the ground yet.
if I redo it, it’ll have to be Saturday. I’ll put it on the road as much as possible between now and then and see what happens.
Don't know if it's the same on a 6.2L, but this is a common missed area to put RTV. I missed it when I swapped in the 454 and had to redo it. Funny thing is, these images are from when I did the rear main in my old K5 so obviously I forget my own advice.
My 6.5 has a one piece rear main seal, not sure if it has those same spots to seal or not, but looks like that would be done with the oil pan off?
Yeah, you would pull the pan and remove the rear bearing cap. If it's the same as a 350/454.
I've never messed with a 1-piece seal. So far those engines I've owned didn't leak.
I've never messed with a 1-piece seal. So far those engines I've owned didn't leak.
Yes, that point doesn't apply to your truck. And, no, of course you're not the only person to mess that up.
Took it for another drive during lunch. All types of driving, around town, stop and go, long period of idling, then highway speeds up to 75mph. Good hour of driving. Checked it before the highway, back of the pan was dry. But once we we got home after driving on the highway, back of the pan was wet. While it “looks” bad, I don’t know how much it actually is. It’s not even dripping onto the ground.
hasn’t been mentioned yet, I replaced it a year or two ago, but I guess that could be a possibility also
Not sure if this is indicative, but looks like the Pcv is open. This is at idle, and engine is cooled off some, probably 150*
And there’s a little bit of drip
