The RedBurb

[6872xtc]

What about smearing a tiny bit of sealer on the outer surface of the seal? Does the seal manufacturer specifically say NOT to? Ormdomthey want the OD oiled? I have used a little bit of sealer on some, I believe that it lets it slide into the bore easier, then possibly adds some help afterwards. Dunno for sure.

I have also found some wheel seals that call specifically for lightly oiling the surface.

 

[Fastereddie]

Looking at this pic, I believe you drove the seal in too far. The face of the seal should be just after the chamfer.

 

[imiceman44]

Looking at this pic, I believe you drove the seal in too far. The face of the seal should be just after the chamfer.
View attachment 351237

Also I don't know if it's the same with these engines but the Detroit diesel s15 will leak if you drive the seal in without making sure it's going on perfectly flat, a hint of twist and it leaks. That's why they recommend using a tool that pushes it evenly all the way

 

[AugustDiesel]

What about smearing a tiny bit of sealer on the outer surface of the seal? Does the seal manufacturer specifically say NOT to? Ormdomthey want the OD oiled? I have used a little bit of sealer on some, I believe that it lets it slide into the bore easier, then possibly adds some help afterwards. Dunno for sure.

I have also found some wheel seals that call specifically for lightly oiling the surface.

Could be. I’ll definitely be doing some research prior to putting the third one in. I’ve read that there is an installation tool that’s recommended/required, which of course I don’t have.

Looking at this pic, I believe you drove the seal in too far. The face of the seal should be just after the chamfer.
View attachment 351237

You may be right. Here’s a before and after of the original old seal and the new/currently leaking seal. They both are straight on pics so hard to tell, but I think I can see what you’re talking about: the original seal is set just past the chamfer and the new seal is driven way past it.

Also I don't know if it's the same with these engines but the Detroit diesel s15 will leak if you drive the seal in without making sure it's going on perfectly flat, a hint of twist and it leaks. That's why they recommend using a tool that pushes it evenly all the way

There may or may not have been some of that at play during installation.

I have a makeshift tool that I used last time, but I might try finding something more legitimate locally, if possible.

 

[mrk5]

FWIW, I know it won't be an issue this time, but I know the instructions for the last rear main I installed said to put grease on it if it will be a while before the motor is run. I remember because I debated about which way to go, oil or grease, because I wasn't sure how much longer it was going to sit.

 

[diesel4me]

I've never had to replace a one piece rear main seal,hope I don't either,that looks like a hard one to get in squarely despite enough access to it--a piece of PVC pipe probably wont push it in before it deforms,and finding a metal tube or pipe that big isn't something the average person has hanging around either..

Maybe it can be pressed in by using the flex plate bolts and a suitable collar that matches the diameter or close to it and a flat hunk of metal or plywood ..you'd need longer bolts or threaded rod..

As far as lubing the seal before installing,I have used oil,grease,vaseline,STP,etc..its not critical what you use as long as some gets applied,to prevent the seal from the friction when you first fire the engine up..

 

[AugustDiesel]

FWIW, I know it won't be an issue this time, but I know the instructions for the last rear main I installed said to put grease on it if it will be a while before the motor is run. I remember because I debated about which way to go, oil or grease, because I wasn't sure how much longer it was going to sit.

Yeah I plan on greasing the crank before I put it on.

I've never had to replace a one piece rear main seal,hope I don't either,that looks like a hard one to get in squarely despite enough access to it--a piece of PVC pipe probably wont push it in before it deforms,and finding a metal tube or pipe that big isn't something the average person has hanging around either..

Maybe it can be pressed in by using the flex plate bolts and a suitable collar that matches the diameter or close to it and a flat hunk of metal or plywood ..you'd need longer bolts or threaded rod..

As far as lubing the seal before installing,I have used oil,grease,vaseline,STP,etc..its not critical what you use as long as some gets applied,to prevent the seal from the friction when you first fire the engine up..

last time I used a hub cap that turned out to be the perfect diameter, but had to drive it in with a mallet.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Rear seal is out. Looks like the primary culprit is having shoved it in too far. There is a passage at the bottom for oil passage and it looks like the seal was so far back it wasn’t sealing that off very far.

But what do I know

 

[Bent77]

hmm, oops

 

[AugustDiesel]

Correction to my earlier post. I think the seal was pushed back so far that it was actually blocking the oil port passage so that instead of oil passing through and back into the oil pan it was being pushed out of the seal and out of the oil pan.

Nonetheless, it back together and moves under its own power again less than 24 hours later. I’ve only let it idle for about 15 minutes in the driveway and driven it halfway down my street to let it shift through first gear, so not enough of a test to know if I fixed the problem but enough of a test to suggest that perhaps I have not made the problem even worse.

The proof is in the pudding though, so I won’t really know until tomorrow.

This time though, instead of driving it all the way back, I set it just past the chamfer just like @mrk5 suggested, after having cleaned the crank as best I could like @Bent77 and greased the crank like @AgDieseler suggested.

Big thanks to my buddy for coming down to help me (his truck is way nicer than mine), and my father-in-law even came over and replaced the window channels on the front doors for me. Awesome dudes.

 

[AgDieseler]

Super badass dude. See you soon.

David

 

[AugustDiesel]

Okay, back from test drive. About 17 miles of mostly highway miles with speeds up to 75mph. So far, no leaks. So that’s good.

what’s freaky though is that now there’s a lot of noise coming from the flywheel/torque converter. Like something is off balance, and it seems to be shaking the whole driveline.

For comparison, here is the video again of the flywheel/TC Idling earlier this week after having driven it 35 miles up the highway

Here it is after yanking and slinging everything back together, idling in the driveway, prior to driving it

Here it is post 17-mile highway drive just an hour ago :

 

[Bent77]

Did you happen to put the flex plate on the crank backwards?

 

[AugustDiesel]

Did you happen to put the flex plate on the crank backwards?

Nope. I marked it for that purpose

 

[AugustDiesel]

Disconnected the torque converter, spun it a few times, and reconnected, being very careful to make sure it was pulled evenly against the flywheel. Also followed @AgDieseler ’s guidance in testing the flywheel to see if it was tight. Seems to be better now, but engine is cold so I’ll need to test drive it again to know for sure. getting the AC System charged right now.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Back from another highway test drive. Whatever that friggin noise was, it’s gone. Thank God. My guess is the torque converter wasn’t seated evenly against the flywheel. It’s good now though.

Oh, and best part is after 35 miles of highway traveling speeds up to 76mph, that blasted rear main seal is still dry.

There’s a bunch more junk I wanted to get done, but I need to chill and pack.

 

[Bent77]

Thats what we wanna hear

 

[mrk5]

Back from another highway test drive. Whatever that friggin noise was, it’s gone. Thank God. My guess is the torque converter wasn’t seated evenly against the flywheel. It’s good now though.

Oh, and best part is after 35 miles of highway traveling speeds up to 76mph, that blasted rear main seal is still dry.

There’s a bunch more junk I wanted to get done, but I need to chill and pack.

On the last trail run my truck made an odd noise. I was sure I had blown one of the header gaskets or a collector gasket. It was in the middle of a long climb so I figured I'd investigate when we got to level ground. It went away before that and I have no idea what it was.

So I know the feeling. Probably comes with old trucks running on a bunch of different parts that are custom and from various other vehicles. I guess.

 

[centexk5]

I remember wheeling with a buddy of mine and his engine was knocking something fierce. We said screw it if it blows it blows. As we were driving along it suddenly got quiet but he was still driving. We all stop to take a look at the next obstacle and this guy walks up with a crank pulley in his hand and gave it to my buddy and said it flew off a ways back. Good times.

 

[mrk5]

I remember wheeling with a buddy of mine and his engine was knocking something fierce. We said screw it if it blows it blows. As we were driving along it suddenly got quiet but he was still driving. We all stop to take a look at the next obstacle and this guy walks up with a crank pulley in his hand and gave it to my buddy and said it flew off a ways back. Good times.

Luckily nothing fell off mine.

That I'm aware of.....