Cool.
If you bring a donation for the raffle at BB you can write the trip off.
If you bring a donation for the raffle at BB you can write the trip off.
CK5
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It is a business expense to get there and back. You write it off as business travel and you do not pay income taxes on that money. And the government does not deserve any more of our money.
What he said. That's the only way I'm able to go. 
That logo looks very good on there!
What he said. That's the only way I'm able to go.
So what do I have to donate to pull this off?
Thanks dude! It was a collaborative effort.
My deal is, I stop and talk to the 3 food trucks in town about future work. Done.
This year and beyond 3W Fabrication will be hosting the event. So write off. For your accountant's sake, something difficult to ship or that you need to personally demonstrate.
This year and beyond 3W Fabrication will be hosting the event. So write off. For your accountant's sake, something difficult to ship or that you need to personally demonstrate.
Y’all have been on my mind and I need to get caught up on my build posts since there have been a decent amount of changes made this year.
Fortunately, even though I got slack on posts, I still took plenty of pictures, so here they come.
I’ll try to drop a post a day until I’m caught up.
First up was the pre-production model Willomet Motor & Fab dual alternator bracket by @AgDieseler. I had wanted one of these for a long long time but none were to be found. After discussing it briefly with David, we worked up a plan to design a bracket off his factory unit and I would be the test pilot for the first one off the assembly line. It’s been in for probably 6 months now, and I’m happy to report the bracket and alternator are still serving faithfully.
After that, it was finally time to get to work on my 4 rear doors. They all were pretty rotten, and needed to go. Over the last couple years I had been collecting doors as I found them and finally got around to repainting them. The barn doors happened to already be a two tone white, so they needed nothing more than an install. I’m digging the new blue and am thinking there may be some more of that. For now, it’s all white with black quarters.
I liked the swing out fuel can rack while I had it, but these new barn doors were so nice I didn’t want to drill a bunch of holes in them. So the rack has found a new home now. I have the cans still and have a design in my head for a drop down spare tire carrier that will likely see the cans mounted again.
In the meantime, the license plate needed a new home, as well as my backup lights, so I whipped up these mounts.
Finally, I had always wanted to be able to lock, unlock, open, and close the barn doors from within the truck. So this was my opportunity to add those functions - scavenging the parts I needed from the scrap doors - and I am happy with how they turned out.
Until tomorrow,
Andy
Fortunately, even though I got slack on posts, I still took plenty of pictures, so here they come.
I’ll try to drop a post a day until I’m caught up.
First up was the pre-production model Willomet Motor & Fab dual alternator bracket by @AgDieseler. I had wanted one of these for a long long time but none were to be found. After discussing it briefly with David, we worked up a plan to design a bracket off his factory unit and I would be the test pilot for the first one off the assembly line. It’s been in for probably 6 months now, and I’m happy to report the bracket and alternator are still serving faithfully.
After that, it was finally time to get to work on my 4 rear doors. They all were pretty rotten, and needed to go. Over the last couple years I had been collecting doors as I found them and finally got around to repainting them. The barn doors happened to already be a two tone white, so they needed nothing more than an install. I’m digging the new blue and am thinking there may be some more of that. For now, it’s all white with black quarters.
I liked the swing out fuel can rack while I had it, but these new barn doors were so nice I didn’t want to drill a bunch of holes in them. So the rack has found a new home now. I have the cans still and have a design in my head for a drop down spare tire carrier that will likely see the cans mounted again.
In the meantime, the license plate needed a new home, as well as my backup lights, so I whipped up these mounts.
Finally, I had always wanted to be able to lock, unlock, open, and close the barn doors from within the truck. So this was my opportunity to add those functions - scavenging the parts I needed from the scrap doors - and I am happy with how they turned out.
Until tomorrow,
Andy
Is that a pull-to-release door knob?
My burb was missing that interior panel when I got it. So I just reach through the hole in the sheet metal and flip the linkage manually. It works well enough that I haven't planned on replacing the panel.
Though yours does look nice...
My burb was missing that interior panel when I got it. So I just reach through the hole in the sheet metal and flip the linkage manually. It works well enough that I haven't planned on replacing the panel.
Though yours does look nice...
Is that a pull-to-release door knob?
My burb was missing that interior panel when I got it. So I just reach through the hole in the sheet metal and flip the linkage manually. It works well enough that I haven't planned on replacing the panel.
Though yours does look nice...
I took some video footage of how I went about doing the door latch. I’ll find it and get it posted. Essentially, I used scavenged door lock rods from the old doors tapped one end to fit my old choke cable knob - that’s the end you see - and drilled and tapped the latch plate inside the door for the rod to thread into. It’s a simple push-down effort to open the door from the inside.
What lights are you using on the rear bumper?
I found the video. It’s long - because I go into a lot of detail about everything - so if you can spare 12.5 minutes of your life, it’s worth it, because it explains how the door latch mechanisms work and what I did to add an interior lock and latch. Thanks for watching.
Just an Amazon brand. They’re probably worth what I paid for them, but still better than my last set. I have a set I’ll put on the front as well.
AMBROTHER LED Lights
Dual alternator bracket serial #00. Glad that’s still working for you.
David
David
I expect it will faithfully serve its duty for many years to come.
Next time I’m in Dallas, I think I’ll have to get that serial number etched into it.
The next several projects probably fall under the “maintenance” or “revision” categories.
next up was doing a rust patch on my driver door. When I installed the doors I tried covering this rust spot with bondo but it wasn’t successful. So a quick patch was in order.
It’s not perfect. The filler isn’t smooth and there are spots where the steel warped. But it’s better than what it was and that’s all I can ask for.
next up was doing a rust patch on my driver door. When I installed the doors I tried covering this rust spot with bondo but it wasn’t successful. So a quick patch was in order.
It’s not perfect. The filler isn’t smooth and there are spots where the steel warped. But it’s better than what it was and that’s all I can ask for.
Then it was time to balance the weight in my truck.
My batteries have been in the back corner where the spare used to be for about 3-4 years now. About as long as I’ve owned the truck. But with the ORD springs under the truck now, it didn’t seem to be working out too well for me. My truck was consistently sitting lower on the driver side than the passenger side. Of course when you consider the weight of the two D31M Optima marine batteries (60lbs each) plus the massive 1/4” plate they were sitting on and the cage they were in (probably another 45lbs together) and add my extra hefty 240lbs in the driver seat, that’s over an extra 400 lbs on the driver side ALL the time! Lol.
To me, it made sense to relocate the batteries again, and the best option I could find was between the two front seats. The following photos will illustrate how I repurposed the 1/4” plate from the back with some homemade brackets that straddle the trans tunnel and tie into the seatbelt mounting holes to provide a secure base for the batteries. I then made up all new cables, installed firewall junctions right above the engine, and threw together a temporary box to cover the batteries. The plan is to build a nice console that will cover the batteries, provide a small amount of storage, as well as provide a home for some electrical accessories. For now, this will do.
My batteries have been in the back corner where the spare used to be for about 3-4 years now. About as long as I’ve owned the truck. But with the ORD springs under the truck now, it didn’t seem to be working out too well for me. My truck was consistently sitting lower on the driver side than the passenger side. Of course when you consider the weight of the two D31M Optima marine batteries (60lbs each) plus the massive 1/4” plate they were sitting on and the cage they were in (probably another 45lbs together) and add my extra hefty 240lbs in the driver seat, that’s over an extra 400 lbs on the driver side ALL the time! Lol.
To me, it made sense to relocate the batteries again, and the best option I could find was between the two front seats. The following photos will illustrate how I repurposed the 1/4” plate from the back with some homemade brackets that straddle the trans tunnel and tie into the seatbelt mounting holes to provide a secure base for the batteries. I then made up all new cables, installed firewall junctions right above the engine, and threw together a temporary box to cover the batteries. The plan is to build a nice console that will cover the batteries, provide a small amount of storage, as well as provide a home for some electrical accessories. For now, this will do.
To continue the balancing effort on the suspension, I then swapped the front springs side to side, added 1/4” spacers on brother front and rear driver side springs, and added an ORD sway bar.
Photos may or may not be in the correct order, but you get the idea.
I didn’t actually take very many photos of the leaf spring swap. But while I was at it, I fixed my rear pinion angle with some 6* shims which also allowed me to relocate my rear axle 1” rearward.
I also discovered the power steering pump was failing - my fault probably - the mounting bolts were coming loose - apparently I forgot to use loctite. So a new pump was in order and I figured while I was at it I’d throw on one of these fancy 2 piece pulleys.
Photos may or may not be in the correct order, but you get the idea.
I didn’t actually take very many photos of the leaf spring swap. But while I was at it, I fixed my rear pinion angle with some 6* shims which also allowed me to relocate my rear axle 1” rearward.
I also discovered the power steering pump was failing - my fault probably - the mounting bolts were coming loose - apparently I forgot to use loctite. So a new pump was in order and I figured while I was at it I’d throw on one of these fancy 2 piece pulleys.
With all these efforts - the truck certainly rides more level now. Actually, it sits slightly driver high when no one is in it - which is probably where I want it to be.
Last but not least - I finally installed the ORD engine crossmember and their competition mounts. Only took about a days worth of effort. Wasn’t really hard, just tedious.
This gets us caught up to current, and I’m excited with what’s coming next.
Andy
Last but not least - I finally installed the ORD engine crossmember and their competition mounts. Only took about a days worth of effort. Wasn’t really hard, just tedious.
This gets us caught up to current, and I’m excited with what’s coming next.
Andy
Dang! That's a heck up an update!
