The RedBurb

[campfire]

That indeed was David’s idea, but I compared the timing marks to what they were when I did the serpentine swap a year ago, and they were unchanged. Now that I’m home, I’ll double check tightness just as a precaution.

The external linkage still moved freely as it should, so I suspect it’s internal somewhere.

There’s no such thing as dumb questions.

Don't forget that the timing cover itself can shift. It's not a very consistent or accurate way of setting timing.

But I suspect your diagnosis is correct, since it shifted back to normal after a few miles. I am not a guru with regards to timing a DB2. But my gut says that the timing advance shouldn't be able to produce copious amounts of black smoke unless your base timing is already too advanced. It's not supposed to have a huge effect, it should be subtle. So I suspect your problem is something deeper than simply having the internal section of that linkage stuck in the advanced position. Was it running well aside from the black smoke? No misfires?

 

[campfire]

There’s no such thing as dumb questions.

I called it a dumb question because I was pretty sure it had already been asked. Questions get dumber when repeated.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Don't forget that the timing cover itself can shift. It's not a very consistent or accurate way of setting timing.

But I suspect your diagnosis is correct, since it shifted back to normal after a few miles. I am not a guru with regards to timing a DB2. But my gut says that the timing advance shouldn't be able to produce copious amounts of black smoke unless your base timing is already too advanced. It's not supposed to have a huge effect, it should be subtle. So I suspect your problem is something deeper than simply having the internal section of that linkage stuck in the advanced position. Was it running well aside from the black smoke? No misfires?

My base timing could already be too advanced. Dave says it’s about 6*. Here’s the marks back when I did the serpentine swap and then the same from yesterday.




That’s a good thought about the timing cover bolts. I’ll add that to my inspection list.

The IP is one of the few things that I haven’t touched on this truck. So it wouldn’t surprise me to find out it’s going bad.

 

[AgDieseler]

The cold advance is around 6*, but my memory could be faulty. I definitely can’t tell what the static timing is via marks alone - sound and smoke gets you pretty close, but the MT480 meter is what I’ve used to dial mine in. Yours does appear to be advanced to some degree.

For NA, I found that setting static timing within a degree of TDC using the luminosity probe worked really well. Typically that’s in line with the timing mark. With a turbo, a degree after TDC had a nice balance to EGT and throttle response. That’s been around 1/6” offset to the passenger side depending on the pump.

When you R&R yours, line it up with the marks as a starting point, and that’ll be a good baseline.

David

 

[AugustDiesel]

The cold advance is around 6*, but my memory could be faulty. I definitely can’t tell what the static timing is via marks alone - sound and smoke gets you pretty close, but the MT480 meter is what I’ve used to dial mine in. Yours does appear to be advanced to some degree.

For NA, I found that setting static timing within a degree of TDC using the luminosity probe worked really well. Typically that’s in line with the timing mark. With a turbo, a degree after TDC had a nice balance to EGT and throttle response. That’s been around 1/6” offset to the passenger side depending on the pump.

When you R&R yours, line it up with the marks as a starting point, and that’ll be a good baseline.

David

Thats right. You did say 6* about the cold advance, not about the current timing setting. My bad, it’s been a hairy 36 hours so my information may have gotten a little bit mixed up.

Good idea about lining the marks back up and starting from scratch. And I’ll look into that meter.

Don't forget that the timing cover itself can shift. It's not a very consistent or accurate way of setting timing.

But I suspect your diagnosis is correct, since it shifted back to normal after a few miles. I am not a guru with regards to timing a DB2. But my gut says that the timing advance shouldn't be able to produce copious amounts of black smoke unless your base timing is already too advanced. It's not supposed to have a huge effect, it should be subtle. So I suspect your problem is something deeper than simply having the internal section of that linkage stuck in the advanced position. Was it running well aside from the black smoke? No misfires?

No misfires. But yeah, aside from the black smoke, it still ran fine, except for getting hot.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Where has the time gone.

Not much has actually happened since my last update. I built a drop down tire carrier, LED taillights, and added LED markers and turns upfront. I have tons of parts piled up for the turbo build: an HX35/H1C hybrid that I built, manifolds, gauges, Vibrant intercooler, a 4911 pump to replace my slowly dying IP, new injectors, new glow plugs, parts, parts, parts. Just need the time to do it all. My wife’s suburban has been getting all my attention for the last few weeks. I’ll update that over in The BluJay build. I guess my truck was jealous bc the starter died on me Saturday. I listened, and treated her to a PowerMaster Ultra Duty starter. That arrives and goes on the truck tomorrow. Tough having both burbs down. In the meantime, here’s a photo dump of the tire carrier and LEDs. They’re not without their flaws, of which only I can see, but they get the job done. Future revisions are always permissible.

 

[AugustDiesel]

And the tire carrier. It’s good for a 40” tire. Hmmm….

 

[AugustDiesel]

Halfway through the build, my tube notcher (which was never very good a notching) fell apart on me. After some schooling from @AgDieseler, the notches got tighter with a chop saw than they ever were with the notcher.

The rig hinges from the lower bumper tube and latches to the upper bumper tube just under the tire. Because of the poly bushings I used in the latch, there’s a lot of give that allows the rig to bounce pretty significantly. For now, a ratchet strap holds it nice and firm. I have future plans for a steel bushing in the latch. If that’s not good enough, I have further future plans for latches at the door hinges.

I also have future plans for adding a linear actuator for lowering/lifting duties. Not because I’m lazy, but because I’m getting older and 37s and 40s aren’t getting lighter.




Andy

 

[AgDieseler]

Those notches were hella clean and tight. Nice work on the tire carrier dude.

David

 

[AugustDiesel]

Those notches were hella clean and tight. Nice work on the tire carrier dude.

David

Technique really makes all the difference.

Thanks David, for a 4-day job, it turned out okay.

 

[mrk5]

And the tire carrier. It’s good for a 40” tire. Hmmm….

Planning ahead.

 

[The_Tomato]

Your updates never fail to impress or inspire! That's one mean looking build.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Planning ahead.

I’m learning the hard way to just get what I want the first time. When I replaced my dangerously rotten 36” military treads, I went with 33s and instantly wish I had gone to 37s. Likewise, when I finally swapped on the 37s, I instantly wish I had gone to 40s.

Your updates never fail to impress or inspire! That's one mean looking build.

Thank you sir! I really appreciate this.

Updates, improvements, and repairs are pretty darned necessary when both our vehicles are 32 year old suburbans. This old truck life is a hard one to live, but it’s been a great educator.

 

[The_Tomato]

I’m learning the hard way to just get what I want the first time. When I replaced my dangerously rotten 36” military treads, I went with 33s and instantly wish I had gone to 37s. Likewise, when I finally swapped on the 37s, I instantly wish I had gone to 40s.



Thank you sir! I really appreciate this.

Updates, improvements, and repairs are pretty darned necessary when both our vehicles are 32 year old suburbans. This old truck life is a hard one to live, but it’s been a great educator.

I tried reading back a few pages, but I must've missed it. What's your plan with the turbo kit?

 

[AugustDiesel]

When my starter quit on me the other day as I was leaving the house to get a socket I needed for work on my wife’s burb, I took it as a sign that my truck needed a little PDA. The ignition wire terminal snapped off the post, then the entire post snapped off when I attempted to fix it. I listened, and promptly ordered the PowerMaster Ultra Duty Diesel Starter.



When both vehicles are down, transportation needs get interesting. Super glad extended family in town has loaner cars we can borrow



The PowerMaster Ultra Duty Diesel Starter for the 6.2/6.5 is worth it’s weight in gold. Easy to install, easy-to-access improved post locations, and wicked quick starts. The first video is the first start after the truck having been down for a few days waiting on this starter. The second video the 3rd test start. So quick, even with a dying injection pump, old injectors, and old glow plugs.


View attachment IMG_2921.MOV
View attachment IMG_2922.MOV

Andy

 

[AugustDiesel]

I tried reading back a few pages, but I must've missed it. What's your plan with the turbo kit?

I don’t think I’ve actually talked out loud much about my plans for the turbo, so I’ll take this opportunity to correct that error:

Shortly after returning from Moab last year, I scored 4 turbos for a steal of a deal: 3 HX35s and an H1C. One of the HX35s was unused and in spanking clean condition. I kept that one for myself. The other two HX35s I sold off to friends of mine, and both are already in service powering a 6.2 and a 6.5 quite nicely. The commission I earned on those paid the initial cost of all 4 turbos. The H1C I also kept for myself because it has a 12CM exhaust housing which should be an improvement over the 16CM housing that came with the HX35. That’s why I say it’s a HX35W/WH1C hybrid. I assembled the turbo using a rebuild kit and a billet wicked wheel for the compressor housing. A factory 6.2 LH manifold + a Banks 6.2 RH turbo manifold will get the exhaust where it needs to go. I’ll be making my own crossover pipe, down pipe, and intermediate pipe and will connect to the two existing 3-foot-long Cherry Bomb glass packs . I picked up an intercooler from Vibrant good for 375HP and will be building my own charge pipes to route from the turbo to IC to intake manifold. @AgDieseler’s original air intake box he built back in college is about on par with what I could build now, so it’s currently in service in my truck. @KirsL built me a drain flange for the turbo drain and I’ve got all the PTFE hoses and fittings needed to get oils where oils need to go and the gauges needed to monitor EGT, Boost, and Drive pressures. I’m a gauge maniac and have far exceeded my factory dash’s capacity already, so I’ll be yanking the factory dash and building something similar to what ORD has in their convertible K30.

I’m not really sure when all this will get done. I’m pacing myself significantly more than I did last year and giving exponentially more time back to my deserving family. Maybe before the end of the year.

In the meantime, here’s the completed turbo patiently awaiting it’s new home:



Andy

 

[AugustDiesel]

Oh, and I have a DB2-4911 built by Badger Diesel, along with a fresh set of Bosch injectors and ACDelco 60G glow plugs waiting for install also.

 

[Truckman4life]

Dang that would be hard to hang out with all those cool parts waiting to go on. That starter looks way nicer with the new terminal locations let alone the better starting.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Nice progress. Collecting parts is fun.

4 wheel burn out videos will be mandatory when all of that gets under the hood.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Dang that would be hard to hang out with all those cool parts waiting to go on. That starter looks way nicer with the new terminal locations let alone the better starting.

It certainly is hard. Would probably be even harder if I had experiential knowledge what a turboed 6.X drove like. Ignorance is bliss I guess.

Nice progress. Collecting parts is fun.

4 wheel burn out videos will be mandatory when all of that gets under the hood.

Seems like somethings gonna break with all the traction devices I have. Maybe on a dirt road .