Start them young.
CK5
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The DIY4X B52s, custom built to fit my Dodge Dana 60, are now on the new frame.
A few tricks I’m learning that help with removing frame rivets:
1. Center punch the head
2. Drill out the head with a fresh 7/16 bolt
3. Make en excessive use of heat and PB Blaster
4. Using an air hammer, PUSH FROM THE BRACKET SIDE.
That last one seems to be key. I’m sure y’all knew this, but I learn as I go. As rigid as the frame is, it provides a good support for pushing the rivet through from the bracket side. I’m guessing that, if pushing from the frame side, the bracket has more to give, and therefore is harder to push out.
Eventually, all of this will be taken back apart, so the frame can be cleaned and covered in POR-15.
Andy
A few tricks I’m learning that help with removing frame rivets:
1. Center punch the head
2. Drill out the head with a fresh 7/16 bolt
3. Make en excessive use of heat and PB Blaster
4. Using an air hammer, PUSH FROM THE BRACKET SIDE.
That last one seems to be key. I’m sure y’all knew this, but I learn as I go. As rigid as the frame is, it provides a good support for pushing the rivet through from the bracket side. I’m guessing that, if pushing from the frame side, the bracket has more to give, and therefore is harder to push out.
Eventually, all of this will be taken back apart, so the frame can be cleaned and covered in POR-15.
Andy
I was wondering why it was going together without being covered. Are you going to weld the non use holes?
A trick I learned from a derby car guy is to weld all crossmembers that are riveted in that you know you won't need to remove. It stiffens things up quite a bit.
I have done this to every frame that I have done extensive work on. Even old/antique passenger cars.
I am guess not full weld but a dashed line?
I have a set of Adam Deuling’s windowed frame plates, those will get welded on and I imagine cover/fill a lot of the non-use holes.
The guy I sold my forties to said he used to do this when he restored squarebodies. I was going to ask y’all about that, but, now I have my answer. I’ll add this to the to-do list.
Andy
Full welds top and bottom.
So this is coming from being around Class 8 trucks, which as you know, the factory says "no welding on frame flanges "
I was always told that if you stay back from the edge of the flange, it will work fine. However, repairs and lengthening had the weld to the edge. Seems contradictory.
So do you only weld the crossmember to the frame flanges, top and bottom, but avoid the edge of the flanges to the crossmember?
Hopefully that is clear as to what I am asking.
Class 8 trucks frames are heat treated, is my understanding. That is why your not supposed to weld on them.
Most automotive members no not butt up against the frame tight enough in the vertical direction to weld them correctly. So only weld overlapping seams.
Never had an issue doing that.
Most automotive members no not butt up against the frame tight enough in the vertical direction to weld them correctly. So only weld overlapping seams.
Never had an issue doing that.
A nice morning glow for you all’s viewing pleasure.
@ktmoutfront I’m sure I will be asking more about this once I’m ready to start welding up the frame.
Andy
@ktmoutfront I’m sure I will be asking more about this once I’m ready to start welding up the frame.
Andy
I am getting really good at removing rivets.
Productive lunch hour. Cleanly pushed the rivets out to remove the factory dual shock mounts, brake line and bump stop mounts.
I also really love it when a rivet head drills out perfectly and just pops right off.
By my count, I’ve ONLY 43 rivets left to go …
Andy
Productive lunch hour. Cleanly pushed the rivets out to remove the factory dual shock mounts, brake line and bump stop mounts.
I also really love it when a rivet head drills out perfectly and just pops right off.
By my count, I’ve ONLY 43 rivets left to go …
Andy
I bet your neighbors will be happy when that is done also.
I keep looking over my shoulder to see if anyone is about to hit me with a shovel, but, so far no complaints. I don’t have an HOA either. But, that really highlights the importance of drilling out the head as centered as possible, and not skipping any steps, like oil and heat. It all works together to help those rivets pop out super easy with no more than a few seconds of attention from the air hammer.
Quite the long day. Set the engine, transmission, and tcase in the frame just so we could mount the tcase crossmember … and then we yanked it all out again.
Andy
Andy
That's probably the easiest way to do a drivetrain install! 
That's probably the easiest way to do a drivetrain install!
Easy! All ya gotta do is yank the body!
Every little bit of progress is movement forward, even if it’s just a bit. Got the factory shackle hangers yanked along with a rear exhaust hanger bracket. The front is officially cleared of all factory brackets, and I can start on the rear suspension stuff.
Andy
Andy
Turns out an 18’ long frame can fit in a 19’ foot garage with some rearranging …
Having the frame just sitting out in the driveway has really bothered me, so we have been engaged in maximum space utilization efforts.
We have a small shed out back that we are in the process of cleaning out and repurposing to be a storage shed for these containers and buckets of parts, which will free up a ton of real estate in the shop.
In the meantime, the frame is tucked away nicely and parts packed in around it. Once the boxes of parts are re-homed, I’ll whip together some outriggers with casters to make this frame easy to maneuver while it gets a significant amount of work done to it.
I feel like I’m becoming a master at maximizing space!
Andy
Having the frame just sitting out in the driveway has really bothered me, so we have been engaged in maximum space utilization efforts.
We have a small shed out back that we are in the process of cleaning out and repurposing to be a storage shed for these containers and buckets of parts, which will free up a ton of real estate in the shop.
In the meantime, the frame is tucked away nicely and parts packed in around it. Once the boxes of parts are re-homed, I’ll whip together some outriggers with casters to make this frame easy to maneuver while it gets a significant amount of work done to it.
I feel like I’m becoming a master at maximizing space!
Andy
The easy way to fix that issue is to buy a 2400SF shop with a house on the property.
But then, you just end up with more stuff.
But then, you just end up with more stuff.
