Looks about how I did mine.
CK5
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Go to the gym, or sling an axle and frame around? I chose slinging heavy iron. My wife might be mad at me. TBD
Only took me 2 hours, but the rear axle is hung and I have the frame turned around so I can start working on the front frame plates and FUSH.
She’s tucked in there pretty cozy.
One step at a time.
Andy
Only took me 2 hours, but the rear axle is hung and I have the frame turned around so I can start working on the front frame plates and FUSH.
She’s tucked in there pretty cozy.
One step at a time.
Andy
Just realized I mounted my temporary crossmember in the exact spot where I wanted to put my future permanent crossmember. OOPS. I’m sure that’s fixable.
Working on getting the FUSH installed. I can’t remember how I did this the first time around, but I’m developing a nice little method this time. I’ll try to document the other side tomorrow.
Andy
Andy
Passenger side FUSH is in.
I forgot to snap pics of the process I’m using, but, essentially, I just clamped a scrap piece of steel to the backside with a centered hole and used a 2” hole saw with a guiding bit to widen the hole 1/8”.
Now I can start welding the Deuling overlay plates on.
Andy
I forgot to snap pics of the process I’m using, but, essentially, I just clamped a scrap piece of steel to the backside with a centered hole and used a 2” hole saw with a guiding bit to widen the hole 1/8”.
Now I can start welding the Deuling overlay plates on.
Andy
Now I’ve really gone and done it. 
Andy
Andy
Is that a dirty sm465?
VERY dirty
Take it to a car wash to clean. Leave the dirt and grease to be someone else's problem lol.
Something else new …
And a drive with a view!
Andy
And a drive with a view!
Andy
Experimented with slingin the axles under the frame for easy maneuverability but, alas, my shop is WAY too small, so this afternoon I’m working on building some legs for casters.
@AgDieseler has me motivated to improve my shop space, so I found a nice little hole to tick my workbench into. Might have to relocate that rack behind it.
Separating the 700R4 from the magnum and storing it offsite will also help.
And I need to find a way to reduce the footprint this bender takes up. For right now, I’m strongly considering breaking it down when in long term storage. Then I can store it on a shelf somewhere.
Andy
@AgDieseler has me motivated to improve my shop space, so I found a nice little hole to tick my workbench into. Might have to relocate that rack behind it.
Separating the 700R4 from the magnum and storing it offsite will also help.
And I need to find a way to reduce the footprint this bender takes up. For right now, I’m strongly considering breaking it down when in long term storage. Then I can store it on a shelf somewhere.
Andy
Clean space. Clean creative brain. It's an ongoing process.
David
David
I can definitely tell a difference working in my shop when it's clean and organized versus when it's a disaster to the point my music selection changes.
I can now move the frame around with ease.
View attachment IMG_3311.MOV
I think someone here called it: the frame is much easier to move around on casters than the axles. I think I knew that internally, but I still had to try. You were right.
I can finally start gluing some metal to the frame.
Andy
View attachment IMG_3311.MOV
I think someone here called it: the frame is much easier to move around on casters than the axles. I think I knew that internally, but I still had to try. You were right.
I can finally start gluing some metal to the frame.
Andy
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It’s been a while.
This build is still alive.
I promise.
I’ll have an update soon …
Andy
This build is still alive.
I promise.
I’ll have an update soon …
Andy
Photo dump.
This is the first part of a quasi-subframe. This crossmember replaces the factory stamped crossmember that supported the rear main eye hangers. The hangers are built by CNA Fabrication from 1/4” steel. The crossmember is a mixture of 1/4” frame plates (cut by hand and fisheyed to reduce stress), 1 3/4” x .120 wall DOM tube, and 4x4x3/16” gussets from Ruff Stuff. The whole setup is moved forward a number of inches to accommodate a future set of ORD 64” springs.
There’s a small amount of welding still to do, but, for the most part, this segment is pretty much wrapped up.
Andy
This is the first part of a quasi-subframe. This crossmember replaces the factory stamped crossmember that supported the rear main eye hangers. The hangers are built by CNA Fabrication from 1/4” steel. The crossmember is a mixture of 1/4” frame plates (cut by hand and fisheyed to reduce stress), 1 3/4” x .120 wall DOM tube, and 4x4x3/16” gussets from Ruff Stuff. The whole setup is moved forward a number of inches to accommodate a future set of ORD 64” springs.
There’s a small amount of welding still to do, but, for the most part, this segment is pretty much wrapped up.
Andy
Looks good.
I’ve had the hood sitting outside on my trailer for the last year. At some point, I goofed and set the master cylinder from the RedBurb on top of the hood. Well, it leaked brake fluid onto one of the louvers and that stuff ate right through my cheap spray paint. Bit of rust forming now.
I’m pretty sure all of this can be rehabbed … but … I’ll be honest, there’s a big part of me that would rather buy a new hood and new panels and start all over.
Either way, the next version of this will use rivenuts instead of lock nuts. Younger me didn’t know about rivenuts back then and cut holes all over the underside of the hood to get access for lock nuts. A big motivation to start over.
Andy
I’m pretty sure all of this can be rehabbed … but … I’ll be honest, there’s a big part of me that would rather buy a new hood and new panels and start all over.
Either way, the next version of this will use rivenuts instead of lock nuts. Younger me didn’t know about rivenuts back then and cut holes all over the underside of the hood to get access for lock nuts. A big motivation to start over.
Andy
Use silicone based brake fluid. No eating of paint in the future.
