The restoration/modification of Daisy.

[muddysub]

Good work! Except for the cross member mount/bolt debacle... lol

Yeah, never crossed my mind until I stuck it on the back of the trans. And I already had the gasket and some RTV in there. Oh well, another gasket and 45min or so of work and it'll be right.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Any specific reason you went down the passenger side and not the drivers?

 

[muddysub]

Any specific reason you went down the passenger side and not the drivers?

That's where the OEM lines were already at. The sending unit lines all go to the pass side frame rail. From the brass fittings behind the filter back, it's all OEM. Except the pump, of course. There's another P clamp on one of the bell housing bolts holding the fuel line from moving around.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Gotcha, wasn't sure how they were on a burb and that makes sense.

 

[muddysub]

so i got a little bit done this weekend. mounted the TCU and ran the harness, mounted the TAC module for the throttle, mounted the radiator to measure for the fan shroud and removed the T-case to put studs in the transmission. sure doesnt seem like much.

here's the bottom end of the trans harness and the rear 02 pigtails zip tied up out of the way.

i think i'll shorten the MAF pigtail by a few feet, its ****in long!

TAC mounted by the ECM, i was able to run the throttle wiring through an existing hole in the firewall, even reused the OEM grommet.

you can barely see it down there.

mounted the TCU

installed the radiator, LMC/s radiator pads were wrong but i made them work. had to stack a couple washers under the mounts at the bottom and trim the upper pads to fit the hold down brackets... ive got room for a 3" deep shroud, gotta buy some aluminum this week.

i also got started on the gauges.

 

[muddysub]

i have a decision to make on tires. i want 37s, but i might end up with 35s. 37s cost more per tire and i'd definitely have to re-gear the diffs. 35s are cheaper per tire and i can probably run them with 4.10s a little better. but i really want 37s... one up side to 35s is that i can get them for a 16" wheel and find a set of stock steelies, i really like stock steel wheels. i think it'd look bitchin to weld beadlocks onto a set of stock wheels and get some GMC center caps off of a later model truck.

i've been looking at pro-comp MT2s and xtreme ATs.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/Je...ro+Comp+Tires&Most+Popular+Sizes_PQ=315x70R17

toyo MTs
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/35...spx?t_c=13&t_s=160&t_pt=100825&t_pn=TOY360310

nitto trail grapplers
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/LT...spx?t_c=13&t_s=159&t_pt=10129&t_pn=NIT205-940

and good year duratracs. my brother had a set of these and loved them.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/LT...?t_c=13&t_s=163&t_pt=100892&t_pn=GDY312013142

 

[y5mgisi]

The toyos are the sexiest, but the duratracs are best in everything except mud which you don't have anyway. They are all good choices!

 

[muddysub]

The toyos are the sexiest, but the duratracs are best in everything except mud which you don't have anyway. They are all good choices!

Yeah I have a hard time buying an A/T tire knowing that I'm limited to dry environments. But I live in the desert, all I have is dry environments. Honestly, I'll probably end up with the duratrac.

 

[y5mgisi]

They seem to excel in hard packed dirt also. Probably better in sand than a mud terrain also.

 

[muddysub]

The restoration/modification of Daisy... [wiring and tire decisions]

They seem to excel in hard packed dirt also. Probably better in sand than a mud terrain also.

That's what my brother said about the set he had. That around here in the desert he never had a problem with traction.

This is gonna help me sleep at night. I stopped and got some M10x1.50x50 studs (set screws) for the transmission. This way the threads in the aluminum housing are protected and everything will tighten down evenly. I'm tempted to stud the transfer case as well.

 

[y5mgisi]

I suppose that would give a warm fuzzy feeling wouldn't it?

 

[muddysub]

Yeah, it does for me at least.

I think this week I'm going to start building crossmembers. I've got a torch and a stick welder on my service truck, it may not be ideal but it's what I've got. This weekend I'll be removing the body lift and installing my new bushings.

I got the complete body mounting kit from LMC. I've already started spraying the body mount bolts with penetrating oil though I'm sure it's a little unnecessary. Those bolts have been in there 10yrs or so and Daisy has been a desert truck all her life.

 

[y5mgisi]

Sweet!

 

[muddysub]

i wanted poly bushings but couldnt find a set anywhere that included hardware. (because i'm ditching the body lift) also my friend has them on his K5 and they're cracking after only about 5yrs... we'll see how these LMC bushings hold up.

 

[kgblazerfive]

I ran 37's on my burb with 4:10 for a number of years with out any issues. It would run 75-80 down the freeway. Did that to Moab one year and to Idaho.

Had Toyo mud terrains on Hummer H2 rims aired them down to like 12 all the time in Moab with no bead related problems.

 

[82355]

I used an LMC body mount kit on my 1988 V10 Suburban. I was happy with the kit.

Martin

 

[muddysub]

Transfer case is in for the last damn time. I haven't a clue why I didn't paint the adapter before I installed the ****in thing.

So I had to do this.

So now it looks like this

 

[y5mgisi]

Good job!

 

[muddysub]

i think i'm getting some wheels tomorrow!
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/4335274424.html

i offered him $300 and took it. the wheels i actually want (with lug nuts) and a set of tires that i could use if needed or sell off, sounds good to me.

 

[y5mgisi]

You gotta run the regular hub caps tho!