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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

Overview Gallery Discussion
The hood venting works better toward the front oddly enough. Sitting at a stop they allow the heat up, but once moving the windshield make a high pressure area that limits or even pressurizes the under hood air. Toward the front the air pulls right off the radiator and is pulled up and out. Front half of the hood top is generally a low pressure zone.
I've been thinking the same for my hood here in Texas.
 
Completely agree on the hood louver idea. Looking at the water streak path during a rain got me started thinking about the rear outer edges of the hood as an evacuation point.

I'm not quite to my experimentation phase (helps to have a moving truck), or I'd have some first hand experience to share. Meanwhile, I'll be glad to watch your experiment, and take notes.

David
 
cyclic said:
The hood venting works better toward the front oddly enough. Sitting at a stop they allow the heat up, but once moving the windshield make a high pressure area that limits or even pressurizes the under hood air. Toward the front the air pulls right off the radiator and is pulled up and out. Front half of the hood top is generally a low pressure zone.
I've been thinking the same for my hood here in Texas.
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Hmm. Maybe it's time to go for a drive with some streamers taped to my hood. Haha! If I'm going to cut it up and vent it I might as well make sure I do it in the right places.

AgDieseler said:
Completely agree on the hood louver idea. Looking at the water streak path during a rain got me started thinking about the rear outer edges of the hood as an evacuation point.

I'm not quite to my experimentation phase (helps to have a moving truck), or I'd have some first hand experience to share. Meanwhile, I'll be glad to watch your experiment, and take notes.

David
Click to expand...

I thought the same about the back corners of the hood. As the radius of the windshield directs air in that area out around the truck more than up and over. I think a little bit of research is in order.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Said it once say it a thousand times Windstar fans are the best. Unless that cfm is for each one
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I know, for some reason the thought of a ford minivan part on my truck bothers me. I have to do things the hard way, haha! If these fans don't live up to the hype I'll buy a windstar setup. I'll just have to figure out mounting, that's another thing that's kept me away for it. And yes that's 2785cfm each. I went from a combined 3060cfm to a combined 5570cfm.
 
muddysub said:
I know, for some reason the thought of a ford minivan part on my truck bothers me. I have to do things the hard way, haha! If these fans don't live up to the hype I'll buy a windstar setup. I'll just have to figure out mounting, that's another thing that's kept me away for it. And yes that's 2785cfm each. I went from a combined 3060cfm to a combined 5570cfm.
Click to expand...

When did a Windstar become a minivan? It's a small box van built out of recycled Ranger parts. Inline engine, frame-like chassis, RWD. Stick shift and 4WD options offered. Aside from the size, they don't bear much resemblance to minivans... :dunno:
 
muddysub said:
I always thought it was a minivan... Shows you how much attention I pay to fords. Lol!
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Actually, no, I'm the doofus here. I'm thinking of the Aerostar, not the Windstar. :doah: :doah: :doah: :doah:

I guess I don't follow Fords close enough, either. Windstar IS a minivan, I'm just confused.

Carry on, nothing to see here.
 
This is what I was talking about:

949723132319052-10_Ford_Windstar_FWD_Van.jpg


This is what I was thinking about:

Ford_Aerostar_LWB_1992-97.jpg



:doah: :doah: :doah: :doah:

Aerostars use normal Ranger (mechanical) clutch fans, not helpful here.
 
muddysub said:
I know, for some reason the thought of a ford minivan part on my truck bothers me. I have to do things the hard way, haha! If these fans don't live up to the hype I'll buy a windstar setup. I'll just have to figure out mounting, that's another thing that's kept me away for it. And yes that's 2785cfm each. I went from a combined 3060cfm to a combined 5570cfm.
Click to expand...
Well the advertised CFM looks good.

The only issue that you may have with that set up is the in ability to move a lot of air through the radiator.

The only way air is getting though is through the fans, which is a good and bad thing.
30 mph or so you are moving more air though the radiator then any fan could ever pull. Your shroud is only going to let air in through the fans, which is good at low speeds. However those big covered areas wont let air move at all.

What I have seen and have, are flaps built so that at speed air can flow through the radiator. At low speeds the fan sucking keeps the flaps closed.

Keep an eye on it, at speed on the freeway they really should not be on. Mine spins at low speed once the temp hits 190 or so will stay down that cold or so if I am driving at a decent speed. Turns on high speed once my temp hits 210 or so which I hit in traffic or on trails.

If you end up having a overheating issue while driving look at that.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Well the advertised CFM looks good.

The only issue that you may have with that set up is the in ability to move a lot of air through the radiator.

The only way air is getting though is through the fans, which is a good and bad thing.
30 mph or so you are moving more air though the radiator then any fan could ever pull. Your shroud is only going to let air in through the fans, which is good at low speeds. However those big covered areas wont let air move at all.

What I have seen and have, are flaps built so that at speed air can flow through the radiator. At low speeds the fan sucking keeps the flaps closed.

Keep an eye on it, at speed on the freeway they really should not be on. Mine spins at low speed once the temp hits 190 or so will stay down that cold or so if I am driving at a decent speed. Turns on high speed once my temp hits 210 or so which I hit in traffic or on trails.

If you end up having a overheating issue while driving look at that.
Click to expand...


Some kind of flaps on the shroud are in the works. I haven't found the rubber to make them out of yet. Gotta check McMaster.
 
I can attest to what Keith is talking about. I tried running a single 2spd fan on my crew cab. I built a shroud for it and even included a couple flaps. Even with the flaps, I didn't like how hot it ran at highway speeds in the summer. It did however cool just fine on the trail. I did an experiment and mounted the fan without a shroud. I did see a decrease in temperatures running down the highway, however it would run hotter on the trail. I wondered if my flaps really worked that well. I also wonder if the shroud needs to have more of a cone shape, and not be just flat on the back side. If you look at factory molded plastic shrouds they all have a kind of angled/cone shape to them.

My solution was Windstar fans. It ends up being a compromise between the 2 setups I ran with the single fan. The only thing I want to change is to put the second fan on a switch so I can run it nonstop on the trail. The first fan kicks on at about 180 or 185 and the second fan at 210. So on the trail engine temps will run up to 210 and then the second fan kicks on cools the motor down to where it shuts off and then it climbs right back up to 210. So I think if I just ran the second fan all the time on the trail, I could keep the temps down better. Then the cab wouldn't get so damn hot. Basically the same concept as the trans cooler fan.
 
Hmm. Maybe it's time to go for a drive with some streamers taped to my hood. Haha! If I'm going to cut it up and vent it I might as well make sure I do it in the right places.

works for airplanes....:thumb:

 
I've been thinking about putting the fender vents from a 79'ish Camaro in my hood. That would be different...I would flip them side to side though.

SHE-49-3.jpg
 
cowl hood is good for air into motor, not for getting heat out.
 
Usually the greater the angle between the hood and windshield the higher the pressure created at the cowl area. On our trucks they're boxes - should be a really high pressure area. Some cars have negative pressure in the wheel wells. May consider louvering there.
 
Daisy isn't happy and nether am I, I hate the summers here...

You might remember that when smog testing the suburban, the pop-off valve on the AC compressor blew off for a second. Well today the AC kinda quit altogether. I've been told that those valves will pop at a lower pressure after the first time. I'm hoping that it let go and vented it all out and nothing is damaged. I'm ****in sick of this crap, the only thing I've got more money into than AC is the damn engine. I'm callin the AC shop and handing it over to them, I'm so frustrated.
 
holy crap dude... That amazing that you're having so many problems w/ that A/C. Is it being overcharged? I've seen the ac in one of my other trucks have pressures spike w/ there's not enough airflow over the condenser, but you just upgraded those fans. Have you checked the pressures at all?
 
JoshHefnerX said:
holy crap dude... That amazing that you're having so many problems w/ that A/C. Is it being overcharged? I've seen the ac in one of my other trucks have pressures spike w/ there's not enough airflow over the condenser, but you just upgraded those fans. Have you checked the pressures at all?
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It's actually undercharged, last year when I had it charged at the AC shop they had to undercharge it because it wasn't dropping enough heat through the condenser. At a full charge the head pressure was crazy. So I made bed the trans cooler and upgraded fans to get more airflow. A lot of good all that did me.
 
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