With the Vegas Valley 4-wheelers Hump n Bump event coming up this weekend, I thought it would be a good idea to crawl around under the suburban some this evening.
I'm glad I did, I found a couple loose bolts and the source of a mystery rattle I've been hearing. Somehow all four bolts holding my skid plate on managed to loosen them selves, they've all got lock nuts on them. I'm not really sure how that happened but it fixed a weird rattle I've been hearing. The nuts on my passenger side steering arm were loose again, I'll double nut them tomorrow. (One more argument for hydro assist.)
All the u-bolts are good, spring bolts are tight, turned and greased, steering and drivelines are greased, diff oils checked and I tightened the drivers side spindle nut a little. I also repacked those bearings while I had the hub out. I'm still getting some camber wear on my drivers front and that spindle nut was looser than the pass side. So now they match.
I did some measuring while I was under there. I'll be trimming some metal off my TNA engine crossmember to allow for some more up-travel. I can gain 3/4" up on the drivers side by cutting the panhard bar mounts and 5/8" or so on the passenger side by trimming the corner of the center section right above the diff. (I'm not using a panhard bar, the crossmember came with mounts built in.) I've got some longer shackles coming from DIY4X to try and get a little more room between the springs/steering and frame. I'm convinced that this is low as you can reasonably go with crossover steering. I just found that when fully stuffed, my drag link rubs the frame on the passenger side. If it weren't bent a little I'd be hitting my oil pan with it. One day I'll have to put air bumps on this thing. Just so I know I've got a exact stopping point, these foam GM bump stops leave you guessing a little.
More on all that later on when I actually start cutting and swapping parts.
I'm glad I did, I found a couple loose bolts and the source of a mystery rattle I've been hearing. Somehow all four bolts holding my skid plate on managed to loosen them selves, they've all got lock nuts on them. I'm not really sure how that happened but it fixed a weird rattle I've been hearing. The nuts on my passenger side steering arm were loose again, I'll double nut them tomorrow. (One more argument for hydro assist.)
All the u-bolts are good, spring bolts are tight, turned and greased, steering and drivelines are greased, diff oils checked and I tightened the drivers side spindle nut a little. I also repacked those bearings while I had the hub out. I'm still getting some camber wear on my drivers front and that spindle nut was looser than the pass side. So now they match.
I did some measuring while I was under there. I'll be trimming some metal off my TNA engine crossmember to allow for some more up-travel. I can gain 3/4" up on the drivers side by cutting the panhard bar mounts and 5/8" or so on the passenger side by trimming the corner of the center section right above the diff. (I'm not using a panhard bar, the crossmember came with mounts built in.) I've got some longer shackles coming from DIY4X to try and get a little more room between the springs/steering and frame. I'm convinced that this is low as you can reasonably go with crossover steering. I just found that when fully stuffed, my drag link rubs the frame on the passenger side. If it weren't bent a little I'd be hitting my oil pan with it. One day I'll have to put air bumps on this thing. Just so I know I've got a exact stopping point, these foam GM bump stops leave you guessing a little.
More on all that later on when I actually start cutting and swapping parts.
Although Brycen really enjoyed the death wobble, I did not.
