CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
I said I would go to Dino's if someone set up a club thing. Last year we spent more time waiting in line to get in than we actually spent at the event. If we had a place to hang out with friends and brought some beer, we would have stayed longer.
That’s usually what we do with a few trucks, we should have parked together. I was just dead with only a few hours of sleep and didn’t think it through
 
Today Amber worked on prepping the fenders and hood for install, we're hoping to get the fenders back on tomorrow. I worked on hoses and wiring. I have all the hoses run for the intercooler system, but I'm waiting on one fitting (I ordered the wrong one initially).
Here's the tank side:
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The cooler side came out pretty good. I had to clearance a mounting bracket and cut some of the front crossmember out on both sides so I could route the hoses through the frame rails.
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I'm not real hopeful about getting it started tomorrow, but we'll see. Once we get the doors adjusted and the fenders reinstalled I need to test all the sensors and systems to make sure my wiring and plumbing are good. I'm hoping to be driving it by the end of next week, but we'll see.
 
We had another good day out in the shop. We started the day by painting the parts of the fenders that are in the engine bay with hammered black to match. Then we went on to get the intercooler system fully plumbed with the hoses are all routed and attached to the frame with the exception of the one fitting I'm missing. It's supposed to be delivered today (Amazon), but it still isn't out for delivery. Based on past experience, I ordered another one that will be delivered on Wednesday if this one doesn't show up before then.
With the hose runs finished up we reinstalled the headers with the gaskets this time (I knew I was going to have to take them out to run the lines), then we installed the dipstick, spark plugs and wires. It's really starting to look like it's ready to run now, but there are a few things that mount to the fenders, so we did those next.
We started by adjusting the doors while it was easy with the fenders were off, then we started on the passenger fender. The combination of a 55 year old truck, a new aftermarket inner fender, and thick coating on the inner fender made this a challenge, but after a few hours we succeeded. The body line lines up as it should, the door gap is even and the fender and door are on the same level. I'm pretty sure it's better than when I started.
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Amber finished up the paint cleanup with 6000 grit sandpaper so it's actually fairly shiny! It should look real good once I coat the whole thing with Patina Sauce. I need to mount the main fuse block and MSD SSR box so I can finish up the wiring, but we were out of time.
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It took hundreds of hours of our labor, but holy crap it looks so much better now!
 
The fitting actually showed up today! The intercooler system is now buttoned up other than a vent line that I need to run for the ice box.
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I also managed to get the other fender wrestled into place with the help of a friend. It's looking good now!
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I'm going to skip the oil cooler for now, I installed the bypass cover for break in. I also cleaned up the coolant reservoir, finalized the wiring, and vacuum bled the power steering.
I still need to find a spot to mount the catch can and get it plumbed up, but it's complete enough for a before/after shot. It's likely I'll hide the catch can under the intake tube anyways.
It's subtle, but can you spot the differences?
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The "To Do" list for startup is getting short:
-upload startup tune
-verify sensors
-prime and fill the engine oil
-verify pumps, fans, DBW, and other systems
-check for fuel leaks

I'll probably start it once Amber gets done with work tomorrow. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't crazy nervous about this part.
 
I'm interested in seeing how bad it whines.

Right now, SC whine in the vids I've been watching has me thinking maybe I'm not going that route after all.
 
I'm interested in seeing how bad it whines.

Right now, SC whine in the vids I've been watching has me thinking maybe I'm not going that route after all.
My wife loves the SC whine, that's part of the reason we went with it. It shouldn't be bad cruising with the big pulley on, but I'm hoping it screams with the small one :D.
 
I've found that it's like a dentist drill to me.

Some do it loud, some you can't hardly notice :dunno:
I've seen regular old roots ones that are quiet, and some that are loud too.
And I can't figure gure that out at all lol.
 
I've found that it's like a dentist drill to me.

Some do it loud, some you can't hardly notice :dunno:
I've seen regular old roots ones that are quiet, and some that are loud too.
And I can't figure gure that out at all lol.
The screw and centrifugal type blowers spin WAY faster than a roots style which is why they whine like that I believe the roots style blowers that have the whine are the ones that use the cogged belts, but I could be wrong on that.
Damn dude, that looks really good. I'm really curious about the bedliner under the hood and how that does over time vs a paint.
It's a Sweet Patina product and they list firewall as one of the places to use it, so hopefully it holds up. It seems pretty durable.

Today is going as expected. I'm not sure why I thought the Dominator had a ground trigger for the fuel pump relay, but that's how I set it up. This made the fuel pump turn on as soon as I hooked up power, which showed I had missed tightening one of the fuel fittings and made a bit of a mess.
Prior to that I did manage to prime the oil system with my bug sprayer setup.
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I'm hoping I can just swap some wires around and I don't have to do too much re-wiring. I special ordered the Leash fuse block with 2 ground trigger relays specifically for the fuel pump :doah:.
 
I think with a dominator you can program it to do a ground trigger. Check the I/o tab
Unfortunately the fuel pump trigger is tied to pin J1A2 which is a 12V 10 amp signal. You can't change polarity on any specific output pins, you have to select a 12V output or ground output. Also the programming for the fuel pump trigger is not something you can modify unless you just set up a whole other trigger with custom tables to control it, it's one of the "fixed" outputs that can't be modified.
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Unfortunately the fuel pump trigger is tied to pin J1A2 which is a 12V 10 amp signal. You can't change polarity on any specific output pins, you have to select a 12V output or ground output. Also the programming for the fuel pump trigger is not something you can modify unless you just set up a whole other trigger with custom tables to control it, it's one of the "fixed" outputs that can't be modified.
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Well crap, I tried. I went of just memory and didn’t check into it.
 
Does the controller tie into the tps or interface with it somehow?
Yes, it ties into one of the 5V TPS signals from the pedal. I didn't have the actual servo plugged in, so that may have something to do with it. I'll troubleshoot that after I get it started.
On that subject, I worked out all the bugs and got all the sensors working properly, pulled the coil power connectors, pulled the fuel pump plug, and cranked it to 60+psi of oil pressure! I'm just waiting for Amber to get off a call so I can start it. As long as it starts up and idles OK, I'll shut it down and put coolant in. Last time it seems like I filled and drained the coolant 12 times before we got it running right so I'm waiting this time.
 
It started! It ran very poorly on all 8 cylinders, I'm not sure exactly what was wrong, but all 8 EGT probes were getting heat. I think it's crazy rich for some reason, I'll grab a datalog and see if I can figure anything out.
 
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