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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
Overview Gallery Discussion
By chance.... With all the wiring going on....
Did the fans end up reversed some how :dunno:

Small potatoes in the face of everything else now though.:notworthy:

Sucks man. Gotta keep your head up though.
All part of RACE TRUCK lol.
 
Wes Harden said:
Dam, hard on the self esteem and willingness to continue.

The air movement battle I know well. Wondering here about your recent cooler stack changes. Iirc the fans did work before the changes.
Do we have a liquid line pressure to work with? Or only that the low side is very low.
My knee jerk thouggt is blockage in the high side, then possibly of evap freezing, which would both be a blockage and no cool air in cab.

Anyway attemt to enjoy the weekend. Know that we will suffer right along side you.
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For the A/C issue, I'm pretty sure it's a combo of not enough air going across the condenser and a bad expansion valve. I've had issues with the expansion valve before but just left the coil only slightly insulated and it worked fine. For the lack of air, I think I need to seal the radiator to the core support, the intercooler to the radiator and the condenser to the intercooler. I'll have time to work on this while waiting for engine parts and machining.
The truck stayed amazingly cool and the A/C worked well before all of this, part of the cooling stack redesign included upgrading the brushed fans with DeltaPAG brushless fans. Those are rated at 3200CFM each where the brushed fans usually top out around 2500CFM. I need to test and make sure this seems realistic.
imiceman44 said:
It reminds me of your saga with overheating a couple of years ago
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Which one? The Silverado or the shop truck? The Silverado was finally fixed with the hood vents, the hood vents didn't fix the shop truck, but the Ron Davis radiator/fans did. I'm really stumped on why the engine was getting hot unless somehow the air was recirculating around the radiator due to the increased restriction from the intercooler.
 
shady said:
By chance.... With all the wiring going on....
Did the fans end up reversed some how :dunno:

Small potatoes in the face of everything else now though.:notworthy:

Sucks man. Gotta keep your head up though.
All part of RACE TRUCK lol.
Click to expand...
No, I can also control the speed on them but I ended up just putting them at 100%.
 
Spit balling here, oil pressure issue. What if the pan is being emptied under a hard-ish pull, pump looses prime, won't pick up even after oil drains into pan.
After shut down and few minutes of oil galley drain back the pump has enough oil to prime and make pressure.
Maybe a bigger pan with more oil is needed. Did the new blower add oil passages ?
 
It's the same oil pan, the same oil pickup, the only difference is the windage tray.
Unfortunately I think I fixed the original problem with the new pump and created a new one with the missing nut.
 
r3dd0g said:
It's the same oil pan, the same oil pickup, the only difference is the windage tray.
Unfortunately I think I fixed the original problem with the new pump and created a new one with the missing nut.
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Fingers crossed you got it solved with the pump. I'd inspect the bore, oring, and pickup tube oring area for concentricity.

Have you also checked pickup to bottom of pan clearance?
 
r3dd0g said:
For the A/C issue, I'm pretty sure it's a combo of not enough air going across the condenser and a bad expansion valve. I've had issues with the expansion valve before but just left the coil only slightly insulated and it worked fine. For the lack of air, I think I need to seal the radiator to the core support, the intercooler to the radiator and the condenser to the intercooler. I'll have time to work on this while waiting for engine parts and machining.
The truck stayed amazingly cool and the A/C worked well before all of this, part of the cooling stack redesign included upgrading the brushed fans with DeltaPAG brushless fans. Those are rated at 3200CFM each where the brushed fans usually top out around 2500CFM. I need to test and make sure this seems realistic.

Which one? The Silverado or the shop truck? The Silverado was finally fixed with the hood vents, the hood vents didn't fix the shop truck, but the Ron Davis radiator/fans did. I'm really stumped on why the engine was getting hot unless somehow the air was recirculating around the radiator due to the increased restriction from the intercooler.
Click to expand...
I was talking to him not you.
Your issues remind me of when he was overheating going up I15 especially pulling the boat or the dune buggy.
 
Tnsejed said:
Fingers crossed you got it solved with the pump. I'd inspect the bore, oring, and pickup tube oring area for concentricity.

Have you also checked pickup to bottom of pan clearance?
Click to expand...
When I installed the windage tray I had to make some modifications to the oil pickup tube support. I set the height right at 3/8" above the bottom of the pan when I did that.
A better pan may be part of this repair, but most of those require remote oil filters so I'm not sure.

We went hard yesterday, my shoulder is pretty pissed off about it today.
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We did some reorganizing so I could put all the parts on the shelves where they'd be safer. We also pulled the crank. Most of the rod bearings look brand new with the exception of #2 and 3. The crank looks good other than #3 rod journal.
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I went back out after posting this and looked at the rod bearings more closely. None of them spun, #3 got stupid hot and #2 got hot enough that the bearing just fell out of the rod and cap, even though the coating was still on the bearing (it's the one in the picture next to the crank). The only rod bearing that had the coating worn off was #2. All of the crank bearings had some spots that wore through the coating, but just to the bearing material. The cam bearings look like some crap got pushed through them, but not bad overall. All the bearings will get replaced, along with #3 rod.
 
r3dd0g said:
I went back out after posting this and looked at the rod bearings more closely. None of them spun, #3 got stupid hot and #2 got hot enough that the bearing just fell out of the rod and cap, even though the coating was still on the bearing (it's the one in the picture next to the crank). The only rod bearing that had the coating worn off was #2. All of the crank bearings had some spots that wore through the coating, but just to the bearing material. The cam bearings look like some crap got pushed through them, but not bad overall. All the bearings will get replaced, along with #3 rod.
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Better safe then sorry, are these hard to find?
 
All the bearings were replaced when I rebuilt the engine, they are easy to find. The rod is one of Smeding's 300M rods so I need to call them tomorrow and see if I can order just one. The big delay will be getting the crank machined. I need to call Outlaw tomorrow morning and see what the lead time is to determine if I need to find another shop. I can't order bearings until I find out if the crank will actually need ground or not. Either way Summit should have the bearings in stock.
 
Apparently, Outlaw doesn't machine cranks. Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop on the East side of Phoenix? Outlaw recommended 5 star, but they're in Glendale.
 
r3dd0g said:
Apparently, Outlaw doesn't machine cranks. Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop on the East side of Phoenix? Outlaw recommended 5 star, but they're in Glendale.
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I don't have any, everyone I know of is on the west side.

I have a slow week, if you need someone to take it let me know... work pays for fuel so don't worry about it.
 
So after talking to a few shops and Smeding, I just ordered a new crank for now. If the crank needs cut, it would have to be re nitride heat-treated, and polished. Since I'm in a bit of a time crunch and Smeding had the cranks in stock, I just ordered a new one. I'm guessing I'd be in for at least 50% of what I spent on machine work and heat treating. I'll get it fixed up later and use it when I build the LQ4 to be a 408.
 
I'm not sure what to think after this discovery. I was checking the cam bearings to see if I needed to swap them out, including getting YouTube certified on the process, and I realized that Outlaw put the wrong bearings in my block... The Dart SHP blocks have the cam bearing oiling holes in different locations from a stock block and require special bearings. The cam was not getting any oil while I was running it.
So even if I hadn't caused an oiling issue, it had a different one that would have bit me in the ass later. Surprisingly the bearings looked OK, other than where I drug the cam across them when I pulled it.
 
r3dd0g said:
I'm not sure what to think after this discovery. I was checking the cam bearings to see if I needed to swap them out, including getting YouTube certified on the process, and I realized that Outlaw put the wrong bearings in my block... The Dart SHP blocks have the cam bearing oiling holes in different locations from a stock block and require special bearings. The cam was not getting any oil while I was running it.
So even if I hadn't caused an oiling issue, it had a different one that would have bit me in the ass later. Surprisingly the bearings looked OK, other than where I drug the cam across them when I pulled it.
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Maybe that’s why you had such high oil psi? I’m assuming some was getting in there or you’d be having a similar problem as your rods.

Damn man. I feel terrible for you on this whole thing.
 
centexk5 said:
Maybe that’s why you had such high oil psi? I’m assuming some was getting in there or you’d be having a similar problem as your rods.

Damn man. I feel terrible for you on this whole thing.
Click to expand...
No, none of the oil holes in any of the 4 cam bearings were lined up with an oil feed hole in the block.
The Dart blocks have main priority oiling so it goes to the mains first, then it the mains to the cam and lifters.
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