CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
Yes, the Autometer is in the rear of the passenger head, the CTS for the Holley is in the front of the drivers head.

With the trinary switch, you don't need a computer to run the condenser fan, just trigger a relay with the second set of contacts and it will run based on refrigerant pressure.

I'm guessing this aftermarket A/C is better than what would have been available in 1971, but who knows. I do agree that the chinesium aftermarket stuff sucks and there really isn't any domestic built products anymore.
 
So now I am questioning why you are above 200° with a 185° t stat. I would expect 195° degree running temp. Also some emission gasses are better at hotter temps, Not NOx, and the higher temps help a cat work more efficiently, and live longer. Every emissions device, besides the O2 has 1 job and that is to keep the catalytic converter alive, as long as possible.
You are right I didn't consider the t stat when I posted those numbers for the fans. Having a computer to control timing and fuel ratio does add a bit of saftey back up to run those high cooling system temps.
 
All LS engines run in the 210 to 220 range. Factory gauges vs actual temp readings are very vague. Send it! Fans are for cooling at lower speeds. Radiator size and coolant flow plus air flow are for on the highway.
 
All LS engines run in the 210 to 220 range. Factory gauges vs actual temp readings are very vague. Send it! Fans are for cooling at lower speeds. Radiator size and coolant flow plus air flow are for on the highway.
Agreed, I have never seen one run any different and won’t try to cool it even more just add more capacity. GM designed it to run at that temp for a reason.

I’m not proud of it but the only way I can get the air out of my coolant system is let it get to about 230 degrees and floor it at 5k rpm and I can hear it pop and it’s fine… :haha:
 
We worked on the truck some more this weekend to try to get the A/C working better. The first thing we attempted was to put a 14" fan directly on the condenser, I used the contacts on the trinary switch to trigger it just like we were with the Holly and the PWM fans and I removed the connection to the Holly so it would only run the new fan. Unfortunately the 14" fan directly on the condenser didn't bring the pressure down as far as the PWM fans, so that didn't help.

Our next attempt at fixing it went a little better. I had noticed while looking at the old expansion valve that it is adjustable. I did some googling but really couldn't figure out a process on how to adjust this in a car A/C so I just guessed. We pumped all the refrigerant into a recovery tank, adjusted the valve by 1/2 turn (out), vacuumed the system and recharged. Pressures looked a little better, but not a major change. We did the whole process again, another 1/2 turn out and took it for a test drive. It was evening by this point, but ambient temps were still 103°F, the A/C worked much better. Where before it would never fully recover from a heat soak, now it was recovering within a mile of driving. The next morning we decided to do the whole process again, this time going another full turn out. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the A/C now, we still have the 14" fan installed, but it's no longer running as the PWM fans cool it better. We'll pull the fan out later when we have time.

On to the next project! As I've mentioned, we have some vents for the hood that we need to install, however before I rivet the louvers to the hood, I wanted to do something about the paint. The truck has 4 layers of paint that I can tell, the OG black primer, the OG Blue paint, some sort of silver/blue/clearcoat over the factory blue, and finally a coat of grey primer. We really want to get back to just the factory blue/primer/rust and get rid of the 2 additional coats while preserving the factory paint as much as possible. We spent a couple hours wet sanding one half of the hood just to see what we could come up with. We're pretty happy with the results so far, but there's a lot more work to do. The horizontal surfaces are much easier as a lot of the resprays has eroded away from the sun/heat, the vertical surfaces are going to take quite a bit more time.

I ordered a mini Random Orbital to save the shoulder work so we'll see how that works out later this week. Once we're done cleaning up the paint on the hood, I'll figure out a way to protect what we have left and get the hood vents installed. The rest of the bodywork will take some time to finish.

The part on the front of the hood that looks like we took it down to bare metal is actually the primer in the scratches they put on when they did a quick sanding job before applying the primer coat. With more sanding those will all go away and we'll get down to the base blue. You can also see the darker areas of the blue that still have the silver/clear coat on them. That paint is thicker than the factory paint, so getting through it without going right through the factory paint is tough. It's going to be a lot of work, but I think the finished product will look decent. I'm not really here to discuss whether "patina" is cool or not, I'm just explaining the process I'm using and what my plans are. The truck looks pretty bad with the primer, so getting rid of that at a minimum is necessary.

IMG_20240616_165524472_HDR.jpg
 
Well, it's been hot as heck here in AZ, so there hasn't been a on of progress. I have been driving the Shop truck around quite a bit and Amber uses it as her daily on days I have to drive in to work (We're both WFH for the most part). It drives great, AC blows cold and we're pretty happy for the most part (We need to adjust the doors so they close better). I ended up putting a nice Spal fan on the condenser that runs off the trinary switch so the other fans are strictly triggered by coolant temps.

IMG_20240713_134026628_HDR.jpg


It's been too hot to work on the paint since I don't want that mess in the shop so the hood vents still aren't installed. We'll get to that when it cools down a bit here (still hitting 110+). Hopefully we'll see some progress there in a couple months.

Now, on to the real reason I'm posting. We're starting to look at engines for the truck, originally I had planned on going with twin turbos, however I think I'm leaning more towards a blower now, but either way I need an engine built for boost. I've done quite a bit of research and I'm really struggling to find a reason why I wouldn't just buy a Smedding's 427 long block. It's built to handle the ridiculous goals I have for the truck (~1200hp) and I don't think I could buy the parts they put into it for less than the assembled long block is priced at.

I've talked to them a bit about what I plan on doing with the truck (towing, drag n drive, track days, daily driving) and they seem to think it will work great for that and be a reliable engine. They have one of the best warranties out there as well.

Someone tell me why I shouldn't do this? We're ready to pull the trigger but it just seems like I'm missing something.

Initially this will go into the truck NA and will be putting out somewhere north of 600HP. That will be a bit more than the current trans will handle so we'll have to take it easy until we decide what we're doing there. Once the trans get's sorted out we'll look at blowers, my current choice is the new 3.0L Whipple intercooled unit, but we'll see what I end up with later.

I'd like to hear your opinions, from my research it's tough to find anything as good as the Smedding's engine for anywhere near that price point. I'm looking for a reliable engine that doesn't need to be torn down after every track day so keep that in mind. It would normally be driven with a much larger pully so I can keep it on pump gas normally with E85 and a small pully for track days.
 
I have only heard good things about their builds. 2 guys at the local track have hundreds of consistent passes on their street driven cars. Neither has boost though.

As for the paint protection, have you looked into Pappy's Patina? I have seen it on a bunch of cars lately.
 
I've been looking into quite a few different products to preserve the paint once I get it to where I want it. I've used Flood Penetrol for some furniture I've made and I like the way it looks on bare metal. I'm just not sure how well it would hold up on the truck. The big thing is that it needs a bunch of sanding to get rid of the 2 or 3 layers of paint that are over the stock blue color. Once I get that and get the bare steel to get some decent rust on it, I'll figure out how to protect the end product.
 
I was wondering about this truck the other day, good to see it working well.

I don’t think anyone is going to tell you no on that engine. That’s going to be awesome.

The only way I can get any work done in the garage is sitting or standing in front of my evaporator cooler.
 
The only way I can get any work done in the garage is sitting or standing in front of my evaporator cooler.
The evap cooler doesn't do much lately, we've got a small portable A/C that we point at us while working now too.
 
After quite a bit of talking last night, I'm going to put this on hold for a bit. We've never even attended a drag race event together, much less raced in one, so buying this right now doesn't seem right.

We did some looking and there's a run what ya brung event at Firebird on September 13 that we're going to try to make. We looked into rules etc and I need to get a few things before then (reverse lockout, helmet, fire jacket if I'm running N2O). We're also going to sign up for the Duct Tape Drags in Tucson September 27-28. If that goes well, we'll order the engine and go from there.

Before then we need to go through the truck to make sure it's ready. I want to do some additional tuning on the Holley and put a 150 shot on prior to the events for additional fun. I think I posted this hoping you guys would talk me out of it, not sure why I thought that would work.

I'll keep posting updates as we go.
 
After quite a bit of talking last night, I'm going to put this on hold for a bit. We've never even attended a drag race event together, much less raced in one, so buying this right now doesn't seem right.

We did some looking and there's a run what ya brung event at Firebird on September 13 that we're going to try to make. We looked into rules etc and I need to get a few things before then (reverse lockout, helmet, fire jacket if I'm running N2O). We're also going to sign up for the Duct Tape Drags in Tucson September 27-28. If that goes well, we'll order the engine and go from there.

Before then we need to go through the truck to make sure it's ready. I want to do some additional tuning on the Holley and put a 150 shot on prior to the events for additional fun. I think I posted this hoping you guys would talk me out of it, not sure why I thought that would work.

I'll keep posting updates as we go.
What’s funny is I was going to sign up for both those events, but my nephew is graduating boot camp the weekend before the zip ties.

You have my vote and I’ll even be there and see you, maybe we can line up for a race!
 
What’s funny is I was going to sign up for both those events, but my nephew is graduating boot camp the weekend before the zip ties.

You have my vote and I’ll even be there and see you, maybe we can line up for a race!
Sounds like a plan!
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom