CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
You got me thinking leash relay module now. Do you know if they make a cover for the one you gave pictured, not seeing one.
 
The cover is on in that picture.
IMG_20260222_100438973.jpg

They make these to order, so it takes a while for the bigger ones, about 6 weeks for this one. They're fully potted, which is a bit interesting as you can't replace the relays, but they are quality 70 amp Japanese relays.
 
You can buy a whole lot of relay boxes for the cost of a decent PDM system. I'm also a guy that likes spares, having a spare PDM on hand is expensive. I did look at the Racepak system to integrate with the Dominator, but opted to go with conventional relays for now with the exception of the 1 MSD SSR box.
 
You can buy a whole lot of relay boxes for the cost of a decent PDM system. I'm also a guy that likes spares, having a spare PDM on hand is expensive. I did look at the Racepak system to integrate with the Dominator, but opted to go with conventional relays for now with the exception of the 1 MSD SSR box.
That’s why I didn’t go with the leash system. Even though I’m not entirely impressed with the msd solid states.
 
The cover is on in that picture.
IMG_20260222_100438973.jpg

They make these to order, so it takes a while for the bigger ones, about 6 weeks for this one. They're fully potted, which is a bit interesting as you can't replace the relays, but they are quality 70 amp Japanese relays.
If those studs w/nuts are where wires go, that thing looks like it'll SUCK to actually wire. Especially if those are fuse holder right next to them.

The not being able to change relays would bug me too. Seems like there's no reason for that.
 
They should have that picture on the web site. Now I understand the custom ground trigger added note warning.
My original understanding was I could configure positve or negative trigger
 
They should have that picture on the web site. Now I understand the custom ground trigger added note warning.
My original understanding was I could configure positve or negative trigger
That part is a bit weird. I have their OG4R box as well, and that one you can make any relay positive or negative trigger. The instructions as well as pictures with the cover off for the OG8 are not on their website for some reason (I actually commented on this when I ordered the OG8). I was confused about that requirement when I ordered it, so I just said 2 negative trigger because I know for a fact that the Holley gives a negative trigger for the Fuel pump and you can't change that.

So I will explain how I decide what to buy for this truck, and this is the same I did for my S-10 and Silverado too. I watch other people that are doing what I want to be doing and see what parts they are using, however I temper this with whether they are sponsored by said part manufacturer. You can pretty much guarantee every single person you see with a racepak PDM is sponsored by Holley (most youtubers are that want to be). However I see a TON of drag and drive guys running Leash relay boxes and Delta PAG fans, yet I've never seen a sticker for either on any of their vehicles. This tells me that it's a good enough product that they're spending their own money for it, so I figure they must be good.

On both of my relay boxes I will likely have at least one spare, which means if I have a failure I can switch the wiring over. If I don't have a spare I could pick something less important (nitrous purge, oil cooler fan, etc) that will get me off the highway if necessary, or through a drag race.
 
I forgot to mention a couple things. I went with the MSD SSR box because I needed PWM for the fans and nitrous, otherwise I would have likely kept with standard relays.

The slots you see are for fuses, since they are 70 amp relays you can put 2 35amp fuses in if you need more than the standard 40 amp that you can get in a bus fuse.
 
That part is a bit weird. I have their OG4R box as well, and that one you can make any relay positive or negative trigger. The instructions as well as pictures with the cover off for the OG8 are not on their website for some reason (I actually commented on this when I ordered the OG8). I was confused about that requirement when I ordered it, so I just said 2 negative trigger because I know for a fact that the Holley gives a negative trigger for the Fuel pump and you can't change that.

So I will explain how I decide what to buy for this truck, and this is the same I did for my S-10 and Silverado too. I watch other people that are doing what I want to be doing and see what parts they are using, however I temper this with whether they are sponsored by said part manufacturer. You can pretty much guarantee every single person you see with a racepak PDM is sponsored by Holley (most youtubers are that want to be). However I see a TON of drag and drive guys running Leash relay boxes and Delta PAG fans, yet I've never seen a sticker for either on any of their vehicles. This tells me that it's a good enough product that they're spending their own money for it, so I figure they must be good.

On both of my relay boxes I will likely have at least one spare, which means if I have a failure I can switch the wiring over. If I don't have a spare I could pick something less important (nitrous purge, oil cooler fan, etc) that will get me off the highway if necessary, or through a drag race.
Smart thinking, the planning stages are almost more important.
 
I currently have 8 relays. 1 will get repurposed when I switch to electric fans, and remove the condenser fan.
Will need at least 2 more for rad fans as 1 fan is two speed, and plan to control them all separately off negative triggers. Still a consideration. Did leash send any written diagrams? Or instructions for that? Do you have to run 2 fuses? Or will it work with just 1?
 
I currently have 8 relays. 1 will get repurposed when I switch to electric fans, and remove the condenser fan.
Will need at least 2 more for rad fans as 1 fan is two speed, and plan to control them all separately off negative triggers. Still a consideration. Did leash send any written diagrams? Or instructions for that? Do you have to run 2 fuses? Or will it work with just 1?
You don't have to run 2 fuses, only if you want a higher current capacity than you can get with a single fuse.
IMG_20260222_142123563.jpg
 
It doesn't look like we got much done, but we spent the day figuring out how to reroute some of the wiring, we bolted the battery tray onto the core support and a few other things.
IMG_20260222_160956462.jpg

We tried to put the steering column back in, but the grommet is torn and one of the bolt holes in the brake pedal assembly is stripped out. Those will get fixed tomorrow.
 
Amber also found that we had burned through the heat shield wrap and outer sleeve on our crank position wiring :yikes: . That's a special 3 wire shielded deal so I ordered some off of Summit to fix it. I'm wondering if that was causing/contributing to the crank signal issues when we first put the new engine in.
 
Amber also found that we had burned through the heat shield wrap and outer sleeve on our crank position wiring :yikes: . That's a special 3 wire shielded deal so I ordered some off of Summit to fix it. I'm wondering if that was causing/contributing to the crank signal issues when we first put the new engine in.
Sounds like you caught the Cleetus syndrome
 
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