Same, I didn't even know about the bolt hole trick but it's been 20 something years sense I have messed with a small block.
CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
I know on a 6.2 it was wasier to get from the bottom of the truck, not sure how it would be on a gasser motor. at least your pump isn't in the tank like mine 
I did remove the air pump and bracket to access that hole. Fighting the pushrod is one thing, but the biggest pain was getting the fuel pump lever under the pushrod. Then getting it into position so the bolts would line up with the holes was seriously so difficult for me.
I watched a video that said once you get the lever slid in under the pushrod, to rotate the fuel pump slightly clockwise and just get the rear bolt started. Well let me tell you what, that is much easier said than done. I couldn't rotate it as far as I wanted because the round diaphragm housing hit the motor mount. I had to apply upward pressure to the pump (slightly compressing the very stiff lever) while aligning and pressing in on the swivel socket and 12" extension on my ratchet to get the bolt to bite into the threads because my left hand kept cramping up.
Pretty soon the 90 minute RTV was getting tacky, then it got slippery, and I was sweating like sweaty guy in a sweating contest.
I invented about 4 new curse words befofe I could coax that back bolt to get started. Then I rotated the pump, keeping pressure on the lever, and got the front bolt (the non-stock one that was on the Jimmy when I bought it) going a little easier.
I watched a video that said once you get the lever slid in under the pushrod, to rotate the fuel pump slightly clockwise and just get the rear bolt started. Well let me tell you what, that is much easier said than done. I couldn't rotate it as far as I wanted because the round diaphragm housing hit the motor mount. I had to apply upward pressure to the pump (slightly compressing the very stiff lever) while aligning and pressing in on the swivel socket and 12" extension on my ratchet to get the bolt to bite into the threads because my left hand kept cramping up.
Pretty soon the 90 minute RTV was getting tacky, then it got slippery, and I was sweating like sweaty guy in a sweating contest.
I invented about 4 new curse words befofe I could coax that back bolt to get started. Then I rotated the pump, keeping pressure on the lever, and got the front bolt (the non-stock one that was on the Jimmy when I bought it) going a little easier.
On the 6.2 the space between the engine and the frame is tighter because the engine is a bit widerI know on a 6.2 it was wasier to get from the bottom of the truck, not sure how it would be on a gasser motor. at least your pump isn't in the tank like mine
I like to rotate the engine so the cam lobe isn't pushing on the rod so much. It makes assembly easier.
Maybe that was part of my problem. I bumped the engine over a few times to find a better position on the cam but never found the sweet spot. I've heard having #1 cyl. at TDC is where you want it.
Old Chevies are supposed to leak, right?
I really don't like any leaks, but I'm considering leaving the fuel pump alone for the time being. Just developed this leak yesterday.
I really don't like any leaks, but I'm considering leaving the fuel pump alone for the time being. Just developed this leak yesterday.
If it’s leaking it’s got oil. If it’s not it needs oil.
I swapped fuel pumps on the side of the highway once in my K10, and made a gasket out of a granola bar box. It worked and I forgot about it for awhile.
Still pumpin’?
Martin
Martin
Let me check
Yep
Leaking a little oil, but pumping
That’s just sweat from all the hp
Finally got around to fabricating brackets and installing modern rear seats. I think they were 3rd row seats out of a GMC Tahoe or Suburban, 2004 or 7. Something around there.
Anyway, I got some 1/4" flat bar from Ace hardware. 3"x4' for the front mounts, 2"x4' for the rear mounts.
For the front brackets, I eyeballed that the 2 factory 1/2" bolts could hold it down nicely if they were centered front to back on the bars.
Then I folded the seats down and eyeballed that my rear bar lined up pretty nicely with the factory rear mounts, the recessed round bars in the floor. So I put 2x2" u-bolts in and by golly, it lines up pretty darn well.
I may go back later and sink a couple bolts on this rear bar through the floor and use some large fender washers underneath to hold it down more securely.
The mounts themselves came in a kit on ebay a few years ago. I'm sure they still sell them.
After I mocked them up and installed everything to make sure it'd work, I removed and painted the bars satin black. The reassrmbly was pretty straightforward.
I left the bars the full 48" width. I didn't see a need to cut them down at all.
Final result. The kids were not as enthusiastic about these seats as they were when I brought them home from the junkyard 3 or 4 years ago. They've grown to much prefer the factory bench and lap belts, but I like the increased safety of the shoulder belts these have. Plus they're in nicer condition than the factory bench.
From the rear, they flip forward nicely. The bracket sticks up out of the floor some, but I think it will be a minor issue and only rarely at that.
They fold this way too.
And upright. I haven't treated the stain, but I don't really care. They're junkyard seats and this isn't a show truck.
Cost breakdown:
Seats $50
Seat mounts from ebay $60
1/4" 3x48" steel flat bar $30
1/4" 2x48" steel flat bar $20
2- 3/16" 2x2" u-bolts $4
2- 1/3-13 2 1/2" bolts $4
Washers $1
Spray paint $5
Total: $125
Anyway, I got some 1/4" flat bar from Ace hardware. 3"x4' for the front mounts, 2"x4' for the rear mounts.
For the front brackets, I eyeballed that the 2 factory 1/2" bolts could hold it down nicely if they were centered front to back on the bars.
Then I folded the seats down and eyeballed that my rear bar lined up pretty nicely with the factory rear mounts, the recessed round bars in the floor. So I put 2x2" u-bolts in and by golly, it lines up pretty darn well.
I may go back later and sink a couple bolts on this rear bar through the floor and use some large fender washers underneath to hold it down more securely.
The mounts themselves came in a kit on ebay a few years ago. I'm sure they still sell them.
After I mocked them up and installed everything to make sure it'd work, I removed and painted the bars satin black. The reassrmbly was pretty straightforward.
I left the bars the full 48" width. I didn't see a need to cut them down at all.
Final result. The kids were not as enthusiastic about these seats as they were when I brought them home from the junkyard 3 or 4 years ago. They've grown to much prefer the factory bench and lap belts, but I like the increased safety of the shoulder belts these have. Plus they're in nicer condition than the factory bench.
From the rear, they flip forward nicely. The bracket sticks up out of the floor some, but I think it will be a minor issue and only rarely at that.
They fold this way too.
And upright. I haven't treated the stain, but I don't really care. They're junkyard seats and this isn't a show truck.
Cost breakdown:
Seats $50
Seat mounts from ebay $60
1/4" 3x48" steel flat bar $30
1/4" 2x48" steel flat bar $20
2- 3/16" 2x2" u-bolts $4
2- 1/3-13 2 1/2" bolts $4
Washers $1
Spray paint $5
Total: $125
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The power rear window gremlins have finally struck me after 6 nearly flawless years of ownership. Yesterday it rolled down fine, but would not roll up.
It clicks to try to go down more, but obviously won't roll down any further than all the way down.
It does not click or make any noise to indicate it is attempting to go up.
I disassembled the dash switch, cleaned it out, and no change. I verified correct voltage to the switch. Appears to be DPDT with 3 positive wires going into it. Makes sense, because the motor is grounded to the tailgate as I understand it.
Tried jumping it across the roll up wire, got nothing. Tried jumping it across the roll down wire, got a little spark and the clunk out back that it's trying to roll down more, but as before, it's all the way down.
I inspected the wiring out back, disassembled the connectors by the hinge. They were somewhat corroded, but not too bad. Cleaned and reconnected, no change.
The split loom that holds the wires was full of crusty dusty dirt, so I cleaned that out.
Then I saw the blue roll down wire was split into 2 blue wires (an old thread tells me that's fac'tree) and I peeled back the ancient electrical tape to inspect the connection. I cut it out and replaced it, no change.
Then I unplugged the wires from the window motor and checked voltage on both the roll up and roll down wires. 12v nominal on each when the switch is activated respectively.
Hmm
So I disconnected the drive cable, chucked it in my cordless drill, closed the tailgate, and had my 14 year old roll it up. It went up and down smoothly with the drill; we tested it a few times.
Now I'm here asking you guys if my troubleshooting is on track. At this point, I suspect the problem is the window motor itself, not a wiring, switch, or mechanical issue. What say you before I try to find and buy one?
It clicks to try to go down more, but obviously won't roll down any further than all the way down.
It does not click or make any noise to indicate it is attempting to go up.
I disassembled the dash switch, cleaned it out, and no change. I verified correct voltage to the switch. Appears to be DPDT with 3 positive wires going into it. Makes sense, because the motor is grounded to the tailgate as I understand it.
Tried jumping it across the roll up wire, got nothing. Tried jumping it across the roll down wire, got a little spark and the clunk out back that it's trying to roll down more, but as before, it's all the way down.
I inspected the wiring out back, disassembled the connectors by the hinge. They were somewhat corroded, but not too bad. Cleaned and reconnected, no change.
The split loom that holds the wires was full of crusty dusty dirt, so I cleaned that out.
Then I saw the blue roll down wire was split into 2 blue wires (an old thread tells me that's fac'tree) and I peeled back the ancient electrical tape to inspect the connection. I cut it out and replaced it, no change.
Then I unplugged the wires from the window motor and checked voltage on both the roll up and roll down wires. 12v nominal on each when the switch is activated respectively.
Hmm
So I disconnected the drive cable, chucked it in my cordless drill, closed the tailgate, and had my 14 year old roll it up. It went up and down smoothly with the drill; we tested it a few times.
Now I'm here asking you guys if my troubleshooting is on track. At this point, I suspect the problem is the window motor itself, not a wiring, switch, or mechanical issue. What say you before I try to find and buy one?
If you’ve got 12v at the plug going to the motor, seems like you’ve figured out your problem.
Sounds to me like the electrical switch in the tailgate has gone bad, is out of adjustment, or something else with it is wrong. Its basically a safety switch to make sure the tailgate is all the way closed before you try to roll the window up and break it. It's next to the latch on the drivers side in the tailgate.
Your story above reads exactly like my troubleshooting years ago when I had the same issue. I remember thinking it was the motor as well and finally finding the switch not functioning properly. Check that before ordering a new motor.
I tried ordering a new motor and it was absolute junk. I returned it and cleaned up my original one. Still in there and working great. The unique thing is the factory motor I believe grounds itself through the BODY of the motor. So I unbolted it and cleaned the side that contacts the tailgate to bare metal. Fixed my power issues that I had later after fixing the safety switch.
Edit: To add i eventually eliminated the switch entirely. Which is what most do. I had a bad experience where I smacked a good drop off at Blazer Bash 2024 and the safety switch actually jumped over the latch and locked my tailgate closed. I have 2 OEM switches if you need one. 1 is brand new, and 1 removed from my Blazer.
Your story above reads exactly like my troubleshooting years ago when I had the same issue. I remember thinking it was the motor as well and finally finding the switch not functioning properly. Check that before ordering a new motor.
I tried ordering a new motor and it was absolute junk. I returned it and cleaned up my original one. Still in there and working great. The unique thing is the factory motor I believe grounds itself through the BODY of the motor. So I unbolted it and cleaned the side that contacts the tailgate to bare metal. Fixed my power issues that I had later after fixing the safety switch.
Edit: To add i eventually eliminated the switch entirely. Which is what most do. I had a bad experience where I smacked a good drop off at Blazer Bash 2024 and the safety switch actually jumped over the latch and locked my tailgate closed. I have 2 OEM switches if you need one. 1 is brand new, and 1 removed from my Blazer.
Interesting theory. I tried it out just now, by bypassing the tailgate safety switch with a jumper. Still getting 12 volts to the motor on both the orange roll down wire and the blue roll up wire, but the motor doesn't activate on the roll up signal. So I'm going to take the motor out and see what's going on
Edit: took the motor off, cleaned up all the grounds with a wire wheel and contact cleaner, gave the motor a healthy dose of percussive encouragement, and no change.
I think I need new motor.
Edit: took the motor off, cleaned up all the grounds with a wire wheel and contact cleaner, gave the motor a healthy dose of percussive encouragement, and no change.
I think I need new motor.
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