I have 152lb/hr Fuel Injector Development injectors and 125lb/hr Fuel Injector Connection injectors. I think either set would work, but I'd likely have to run more than 45psi for the smaller ones.
CK5
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There so many brands out there I don't know which to pick. Figured I'd see what you ran because I'm sure they weren't going to be Amazon specials lol.
I know mine have to go up at some point , I'm pushing it being in the 600+ range on 50lbhr.
Your going to have to add another crane, or a job box full of sand to get that thing to hook now lol.
I know mine have to go up at some point , I'm pushing it being in the 600+ range on 50lbhr.
Your going to have to add another crane, or a job box full of sand to get that thing to hook now lol.
My next set will be Fuel Injector Clinic injectors. They actually flow match the sets before they ship them out.
The truck already lifted a wheel with the nitrous, the bed hangs so far over the rear (so does the crane), I'm more worried about massive wheelies than traction.
I've got so many different things to work on, I just pick something when I go out. Today I felt like working on the brake lines. This is another before/after thing, before the lines and specifically the brake bias valve were in the way when I changed plugs. This was made worse by the fact that POL didn't clean up the edges on it so they were razor sharp. I don't know how many times I cut myself changing plugs, heck I cut myself twice today on it.
I cleaned up the edges and moved it back which required re-doing all if the brake lines. I'm happy with how it came out, there's much more room to get to the plugs now and it cleaned up the looks of the engine compartment.
We went camping this weekend, so not much got done on the truck since the last post. I do have another before/after picture as I finalized the wiring on the passenger side. You can see most of the mess here.
The after picture is much nicer.
I've changed my mind on a couple things. After looking at how many changes I'll have to make in the Holley harness for the blower, it's going on for the break in. That's going to delay the first start, but I think I'd almost have to pull the engine again to re-do the harness.
The other change is on roll bar, after seeing some posts about Sick Michigan Miles I've decided that I will be putting the bars through the rear window. I'll put a Lexan or Polycarbonate window in with the down tubes going through it. This will clear me to 10.00 in the 1/4 which is about as fast as I want to push this truck. Once I build a different drag platform I'll cut the bars out and put a glass window back in.
In other news we signed up for the Kingman Route 66 Street Drags. This is after Sick MM, so hopefully we don't have any issues there.
The after picture is much nicer.
I've changed my mind on a couple things. After looking at how many changes I'll have to make in the Holley harness for the blower, it's going on for the break in. That's going to delay the first start, but I think I'd almost have to pull the engine again to re-do the harness.
The other change is on roll bar, after seeing some posts about Sick Michigan Miles I've decided that I will be putting the bars through the rear window. I'll put a Lexan or Polycarbonate window in with the down tubes going through it. This will clear me to 10.00 in the 1/4 which is about as fast as I want to push this truck. Once I build a different drag platform I'll cut the bars out and put a glass window back in.
In other news we signed up for the Kingman Route 66 Street Drags. This is after Sick MM, so hopefully we don't have any issues there.
I'm done with the majority of the wiring in the cab and at the front of the truck. Wiring isn't sexy, so there haven't been many pictures. I haven't touched the Holley harness yet, I need to make quite a few changes to that. One of the big ones is drive by wire. I ordered the Holley adapter bracket without reading the description properly (it's for 67-70 only) and just ended up modifying that one to work in the '71 rather than returning and re-ordering something different.
We brought the engine back into the shop (it was temporarily in the garage while I was fabricating and painting). We test fit the new intake manifold and ordered some parts to make a new steam port kit.
I put the engine mounts/crossmember back in after it got a fresh coat of paint. I'm having some second thoughts about this setup though. The Kingman/Route 66 drags requires a diaper or a catch pan and Sick MM highly recommends one. I can't fit either under the oil pan with that second crossmember in. I'm thinking of just cutting out the center bar and just leaving the mounts bolted into the frame. That would give me enough room for a diaper, and maybe even enough for a pan.
I'm hoping to have the engine back in this weekend so I can start working on the Holley harness, that way I can get all the connectors right where they need to be.
We brought the engine back into the shop (it was temporarily in the garage while I was fabricating and painting). We test fit the new intake manifold and ordered some parts to make a new steam port kit.
I put the engine mounts/crossmember back in after it got a fresh coat of paint. I'm having some second thoughts about this setup though. The Kingman/Route 66 drags requires a diaper or a catch pan and Sick MM highly recommends one. I can't fit either under the oil pan with that second crossmember in. I'm thinking of just cutting out the center bar and just leaving the mounts bolted into the frame. That would give me enough room for a diaper, and maybe even enough for a pan.
I'm hoping to have the engine back in this weekend so I can start working on the Holley harness, that way I can get all the connectors right where they need to be.
I forgot to mention that I also tried to fit the Delta PAG fans onto my shroud. It' turns out not all 16" fans are created equal. The Delta PAG fan is about 1/2" bigger diameter than the SPAL fans that came with my radiator.
I'm still trying to work out how I can get them to fit without too much trouble. I think I can just weld a thin strip of aluminum down one side and offset the fans that direction to get them to bolt on.
I'm still trying to work out how I can get them to fit without too much trouble. I think I can just weld a thin strip of aluminum down one side and offset the fans that direction to get them to bolt on.
That crossbar seems redundant with the factory crossmember right there also.
Yes, it's actually a heavily modified DIY4X first gen 4x4 crossmember that is designed to replace the factory crossmember. It came out of my old Blazer, I had modified it to fit an LS since it was designed for a SBC.
I wasn't sure if that's what you were talking about. I thought you wanted all of it out and was going to say something.
Yeah the stock crossmember is more than good enough to keep the frame from pretzeling.
Weld the brackets to the frame. Then cut the U tube out and run material straight down to the factory cross member. Nothing is moving then.
The brackets bolt to a 1/4" u channel that is welded to the frame, no need to weld the mounts. I don't want to weld them to the crossmember though as that would make it difficult to remove if I decide to put something else in there later.
That is my thought on the crossmember as well.With how those mounts are hooked to the frame, there's no need for that cross bar.
Any particular reason you went DBW this time around?
DBW is what Wegner recommended, so I just went with it. I'll also be able to utilize that for other functionality, I needed a bigger throttle body either way.
People claim it's faster throttle response. But no matter what their argument is, I don't believe it lol.
Only way it can be is if you program the computer to open the blade farther than your really pressing the pedal, essentially tricking it. Which sounds like a horrible and finicky thing to me lol.
I almost went that way with mine. Just because I'm told it's easier to make up a cruise control. But
Then just went cable for simplicity.
Was just curious why you changed it. lol
Only way it can be is if you program the computer to open the blade farther than your really pressing the pedal, essentially tricking it. Which sounds like a horrible and finicky thing to me lol.
I almost went that way with mine. Just because I'm told it's easier to make up a cruise control. But
Then just went cable for simplicity.
Was just curious why you changed it. lol
Cruise is easy either way with some s10 parts.
I'll have all the inputs and throttle control on my Dominator, there has to be a way to make a cruise control table and just use that.
They sell $200 boxes to do that exact trickery and it’s the dumbest thing ever. Be a man and get an actual tune at that point.
I think they call it the "Pedal Commander!" or something stupid like that. It cracked me up the first time I saw it.
Yup that’s one. Banks has one. They’ve got all sorts of settings and what not. To do nothing more than manipulate the signal going to the computer.
I say that and I remember putting resistors in line with coolant temp sensors to make the ecu think it was cooler than it was so it would add in more timing. Good times.
I say that and I remember putting resistors in line with coolant temp sensors to make the ecu think it was cooler than it was so it would add in more timing. Good times.
At least that actually did something rather than just make it so you don't have to move your foot on the pedal as far.
