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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
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folkenheath said:
Go look at your shift charts and make sure the downshift for that gear doesn't overlap the upshift from the gear below.

There needs to be a decent gap on every one, also, I go back and make sure the shift charts end up right at or below the WOT setting, so there is no discerpancy.

For example, here is one of my regal shift parameters...

The WOT shift..


is what makes the black lines on the shift charts...always make sure they coincide so you don't have differences. Also, check that the gray lines and the colored lines don't overlap, that will cause issues, you can make the gaps bigger, but not smaller. You can also see the red shift lines end up at or just below the black WOT lines approaching 100% throttle.



Unless you purposely don't want it to shift, as I don't want it to shift to 4th at WOT, so I make it so it doesn't. I would have to change that if I ever did a 1/2 mile or something, but it can go 165 MPH in 3rd so I'm good for the quarter with my 3.60 gears. Anyway, just some examples.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the examples and explanation. I just made a quick change at the track and screwed up something like what you're saying. I'll dig into it more when I'm at home with my big screen.
There are two other things I need to figure out as well. On my last hit, I left at 3200 RPM and it left softer than when I launched at 3K, so I'm not sure what's up with that. It also seemed like my burnouts weren't as good after the first 3 days. I'm not sure if I hurt the torque converter (2500RPM stall) or what. I don't have a trans brake so I'm just foot braking with the 2 step.
The other issue I had was #6 running cool. As soon as it's making power #6 cools down ~200F lower than the rest.
1787753875260.png
I swapped the coil thinking the spark was going out, but it didn't fix it. The plug itself looks good.
 
r3dd0g said:
Thank you for the examples and explanation. I just made a quick change at the track and screwed up something like what you're saying. I'll dig into it more when I'm at home with my big screen.
There are two other things I need to figure out as well. On my last hit, I left at 3200 RPM and it left softer than when I launched at 3K, so I'm not sure what's up with that. It also seemed like my burnouts weren't as good after the first 3 days. I'm not sure if I hurt the torque converter (2500RPM stall) or what. I don't have a trans brake so I'm just foot braking with the 2 step.
The other issue I had was #6 running cool. As soon as it's making power #6 cools down ~200F lower than the rest.
View attachment 533943
I swapped the coil thinking the spark was going out, but it didn't fix it. The plug itself looks good.
Click to expand...

Swap the injector and/or the temp sensor and see if it moves with one of those. If you swap them both at the same time makes sure it's to different cylinders and you know which one went where.

Also, because the 4L80E has a turbine speed sensor, you can tell if the clutches are slipping and how much the converter is slipping. I actually even made "math channels" that calculated converter slip and the gear ratio based on the RPM vs turbine speed and the turbine speed vs output speed. You have to do a little math to convert RPM to speed but it works well because you can look at that channel at a glance and see if the clutches are holding and your actual converter slip in the other channel. That allows you to check the converter lockup too. The only time that will be off is when it goes into OD because the turbine speed is after the OD gearset, so then it's off by 25% but it still works.
 
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No place like home!
Glad you guys had a great trip to Michigan!
Congrats again on a pretty successful Sick week!
 
We're excited to be home, we grew up here so we're used to it.
I will say that within the first 30 minutes of driving this morning I covered more elevation change in AZ than Michigan has, so that was nice.
 
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