CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
I've already watch a steave morris video where he took my engine and put 10psi on it getting 950+HP.
Can't see what 1000 wouldn't be possible? :dunno:
Not that I'd pull hairs and care at 950 lol.
That's crank hp, not rwhp. Take 150-200hp off of that number. My engine is a power adder build, the lsx454 is not designed for boost. Personally, I didn't like driving it with the party pulley on the road. I want an even bigger pulley for that than what I have.
When I'm running nitrous I'm close to 1200rwhp. That's 400 more than you can safely do with that engine
 
I just have to change pistons.
The rest is built for it.
Have to go from 11:1 down to 8.5-9.
That's it.
GM even states if you want to boost it, just do that.
All I want is 1000 at the crank anyway lol.
Not trying for all that :waytogo:
If I could get it on pump gas with ring filing, I'll do that and not even change pistons. Lol.

If it hit 950, I'd still just say I had 1000:haha:


And I was thinking yours was crank.
Didn't realize it was RWHP:yikes:
Holy fork knuckles batman!
 
If it's a 14b it's easy enough to change the rear.
So running a spool for now , then swapping to something different when you build a race car wouldn't be that big of a sacrifice.

You've been in the engine enough times that swapping the rear end a few times should be like a holiday lol.
 
Yes, swapping the carrier is a simple job, 1-2 hours tops, a couple gaskets and a couple quarts of gear oil. I've built a lot of axles, the 14 bolt is easy other than the weight of the carrier. I do have to remove the watts link to get to it, but that's not that big of a deal.
We got hit by a super cell last night, apparently there was 2" of hail in the street. I slept through it, but I've got some cleanup to do today.
IMG_20261021_071537885.jpg

IMG_20261021_071702602_HDR.jpg
 
Well, the spool isn't going to ship out today, so unless I pay a bunch of money for next day air we're not going racing Friday. There's another event on the 6th so we'll aim for that one.
 
Would it hurt to make a few more runs on the trutrac?
I don't think I want to do that, it's already damaged. If it comes apart on the big end I'm going into a wall at 120mph. I may clean it up a bit and throw it back in so I can use the truck to get materials to fix my wall this weekend.
 
Yes, swapping the carrier is a simple job, 1-2 hours tops, a couple gaskets and a couple quarts of gear oil. I've built a lot of axles, the 14 bolt is easy other than the weight of the carrier. I do have to remove the watts link to get to it, but that's not that big of a deal.
We got hit by a super cell last night, apparently there was 2" of hail in the street. I slept through it, but I've got some cleanup to do today.
IMG_20261021_071537885.jpg

IMG_20261021_071702602_HDR.jpg
Did you build that wall or was it there?
Never build exterior block walls without a horizontal rebar every 2-3 rows.
Wind will knock it down if not.
I am assuming that pillar shaped column has vertical rear to keep it from toppling down.
The rear needs to go in that column to get anchored too.
At this point you can drill a hole to run the rear in it or better yet knock on hole and lay the rear and pour concrete in that area.
You don't want the next storm to knock it down again
 
I did not build that wall and it's been there since I bought the house over 25 years ago. When I widened my gate, I removed the section to the right of those blocks which left those unsupported. I looked at my camera footage, it's the same gust of wind that blew my evap cooler 20 feet away and ripped the hose and cord out. The screen goes absolutely white with all the water/hail flying around (it has an IR light at night), then when you can see again the cooler is in the yard and the wall is down.
I'm going to tie it in to the existing wall when I rebuild it. I may also weld some rebar to my gate post and tie it into that on the other side.
 

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