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The Story Of A Cummins Suburban (Lots Of Pics)
- Thread starter mosesburb
- Start date
.
It is time to get something done on the hot side of the head. I got the manifold surfaced (turns out it was very straight already). I mounted it up to the head with new gaskets and new bolts. Then I hung the turbo on it with a new gasket. When I inverted the manifold I created an issue with the oil feed line for the turbo and the drain pipe that returns the oil from the turbo to the pan. The oil feed line was fairly easy as the ends of the line are standard 5/8-11 thread (same as the nuts on 3/8" steel line). This lent itself well to adapting something to work in place of the stock setup.
I went and dug through my stash of AN fittings and line. I found a nice piece of braided line with a teflon liner, but no fittings--drat. Then I found a real nice forged 90 hose end, a nice straight end, a couple of 5/8-11 inverted flare to -06 adapters and then I found a piece of hose (silicone liner) that was about three inches too LONG!! We are in business!! I added them all together, shortened the hose and came up with this:
It clears everything very well and will work good. It even adds a little functional bling!!
Well, I have oil going to the turbo, but I need to get that oil back to the motor after it is used. The inverted manifold created another issue in the drain pipe. I had modified my original, but it looked like horrid crap when I got done with it. I/we could not find one that would work with my setup. I ended up getting one that was close, but quite a bit too long. I did not want to try modifying it the same way I did the first one (leaning over a fender at arms reach holding two pieces of tubing butted together at a certain phasing, then grabbing the welder to tack it together without moving anything is a bit tough with only two OEM hands). I got to thinking about it and got on the horn to Russ to bounce an idea off of him. He said he could make what I thought up. Basically it is a steel sleeve that I can use to position the pipe where I need it, mark it, remove it from the engine and silver solder it together. It worked way-slick!! The flange that bolts to the turbo is silver soldered from Cummins.
This is what it looked like awaiting solder:
So, now I have an exhaust manifold, a turbo (with oil feed and drain) mounted on the motor. All I have to do on this side is to figure out an air filter and hang the exhaust down pipe on the turbo.
I'm getting closer......
I went and dug through my stash of AN fittings and line. I found a nice piece of braided line with a teflon liner, but no fittings--drat. Then I found a real nice forged 90 hose end, a nice straight end, a couple of 5/8-11 inverted flare to -06 adapters and then I found a piece of hose (silicone liner) that was about three inches too LONG!! We are in business!! I added them all together, shortened the hose and came up with this:
It clears everything very well and will work good. It even adds a little functional bling!!
Well, I have oil going to the turbo, but I need to get that oil back to the motor after it is used. The inverted manifold created another issue in the drain pipe. I had modified my original, but it looked like horrid crap when I got done with it. I/we could not find one that would work with my setup. I ended up getting one that was close, but quite a bit too long. I did not want to try modifying it the same way I did the first one (leaning over a fender at arms reach holding two pieces of tubing butted together at a certain phasing, then grabbing the welder to tack it together without moving anything is a bit tough with only two OEM hands). I got to thinking about it and got on the horn to Russ to bounce an idea off of him. He said he could make what I thought up. Basically it is a steel sleeve that I can use to position the pipe where I need it, mark it, remove it from the engine and silver solder it together. It worked way-slick!! The flange that bolts to the turbo is silver soldered from Cummins.
This is what it looked like awaiting solder:
So, now I have an exhaust manifold, a turbo (with oil feed and drain) mounted on the motor. All I have to do on this side is to figure out an air filter and hang the exhaust down pipe on the turbo.
I'm getting closer......
69TowRig
1/2 ton status
This is such a fun project to watch. Keep it up!
jimbug
1/2 ton status
looking GREAT my good man! thumbs up on all the progress.... hmmm you actually got pretty close with the horn mounting! mine are on the drivers side below the headlight on the rad support
I have been getting more done lately, just not had the time to post pics. I tore the brackets and what-not off of the front of the motor and got them painted up and re-installed:
I got my heater supply hose figured out. With the Adel clamp supporting it, it clears everything nicely (it doesn't look like it does in the pic though)
I figured out my lower hose. It fits good, but the pic makes it look like it is sitting on the inner fenderwell. It actually clears by a little bit, but will probably make contact at some point, so I added the anti-abrasion sleeve for good measure.
I finished up the harness off of the Horton fan clutch and added an anti-rotation device. Nowhere in the instructions did it say that one was required, but I did not want to rely on the shear strength of a couple 16ga wires to keep it straight, so I made one of my own. I also added a .125" steel rod to the harness to prevent it from being sucked into the fan.
In this next pic you can see the mounting point for the Horton harness on the outside of the fan shroud. The Adel clamp holds the harness nice and tight and with the .125" rod in there it should be good to go. I got the upper hose done also. I had to do it with two hoses for a couple reasons. The combination of the water outlet housing I used pretty much eliminated the use of an off-the-shelf hose and when I modified the intercooler pipe, I got it just a bit too long on the intake end and it interfered with what would be a stock hose from a Dodge, so I had to piece one together. It worked out pretty good as I am able to use two of the same part number hose which is a typical generic 90* hose, so availability will be good when replacement time comes. I used a piece of 1.75" tubing to connect them. I welded a bead around the ends for hose retention and added two support rods that go down to the cylinder head. I did not any of the rod that I thought I had here, so I ended up using two pieces of .625" solid bar stock. It's a bit heavy, but it won't break and at this point, what's a little extra weight??
I also got my battery cables made. This is the only pic I got that is decent enough to post. With everything being black, they just blend in. I used fine stranded 1/0 cable and put an old-school asphalt coated abrasion resistant sleeve over it for good measure. This is the driver's side battery:
I'm getting closer......
I got my heater supply hose figured out. With the Adel clamp supporting it, it clears everything nicely (it doesn't look like it does in the pic though)
I figured out my lower hose. It fits good, but the pic makes it look like it is sitting on the inner fenderwell. It actually clears by a little bit, but will probably make contact at some point, so I added the anti-abrasion sleeve for good measure.
I finished up the harness off of the Horton fan clutch and added an anti-rotation device. Nowhere in the instructions did it say that one was required, but I did not want to rely on the shear strength of a couple 16ga wires to keep it straight, so I made one of my own. I also added a .125" steel rod to the harness to prevent it from being sucked into the fan.
In this next pic you can see the mounting point for the Horton harness on the outside of the fan shroud. The Adel clamp holds the harness nice and tight and with the .125" rod in there it should be good to go. I got the upper hose done also. I had to do it with two hoses for a couple reasons. The combination of the water outlet housing I used pretty much eliminated the use of an off-the-shelf hose and when I modified the intercooler pipe, I got it just a bit too long on the intake end and it interfered with what would be a stock hose from a Dodge, so I had to piece one together. It worked out pretty good as I am able to use two of the same part number hose which is a typical generic 90* hose, so availability will be good when replacement time comes. I used a piece of 1.75" tubing to connect them. I welded a bead around the ends for hose retention and added two support rods that go down to the cylinder head. I did not any of the rod that I thought I had here, so I ended up using two pieces of .625" solid bar stock. It's a bit heavy, but it won't break and at this point, what's a little extra weight??
I also got my battery cables made. This is the only pic I got that is decent enough to post. With everything being black, they just blend in. I used fine stranded 1/0 cable and put an old-school asphalt coated abrasion resistant sleeve over it for good measure. This is the driver's side battery:
I'm getting closer......
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sure are! MAn that all just looks so nice! Makes me wonder what all the other guys with cumins powered shevys are doin. Bet most of them arent half as clean as this one!
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Your installation/work is very impressive - alot of fun to follow along.
Thanks!! Yeah, I kind of wonder myself, but nobody posts detailed pics to find out.
Thank you!!
Well, I have nothing but small spaces left in this formerly massive engine compartment and nothing but large parts to go into those small spaces. It is getting REAL interesting. Lots and lots of staring and ass scratching going on with not too much progress to show. I have gotten most of my wiring figured out (physically and on paper), so I just need to get the time to get out there and finish it. I have alot of it routed and just need to put terminals and connectors on the business ends then loom it to finish it. I got my air filter and elbows to make an intake apparatus, but once again, looking at dimensions in black and white sure look smaller than the massive parts that came in the mail. There is going to be some serious re-engineering/re-thinking of several components to get this stuff under the hood. Some of this stuff wouldn't fit right now even if it did not have to function. I'm really starting to miss that big block
.
So, you finally give up and decide to hang that Donaldson off the fender? 
So, you finally give up and decide to hang that Donaldson off the fender?
Naw, that would be too tacky. I'm going to tape it to the hood. Actually, this item has been consuming a fair bit of my meager grey matter trying to solve.
So, I have some big items to fit in small spaces. I have a large coolant reservoir ('91 V3500) that needs to find a place to call its own. I tried fitting it on the passenger fenderwell where they normally live. It fit like crap. Not one of the three little feet hanging off of it touch the inner fenderwell in a way that it can be mounted because the feet are used soley for locating it--not supporting the weight of it. The weight, by design, is supported by the tank sitting on the fenderwell. This does not work for me because my fenderwell is the wrong shape. I located a fenderwell to cut up and mount the portion of the top where the tank would sit to my fenderwell. Not ideal, but it should work. Then my air filter and associated plumbing components arrive. Good gawd they are huge.
I wanted to use a paper filter, but I ended up going with an AFE Pro-Guard 7 filter. It has the best fine dust particle filtration of any washable filter on the market (almost as good as dry paper). All of the other filters I researched measured their filter performance in LARGE dust particles--not good in dry, dusty AZ. Anyways, back to the story.
The filter ironically fits an 02-03 Cummins. It has a 4" inlet nipple and uses a clamp to secure it to whatever it mounts to. That will do just super. Well, the dimensions I read on their site look ALOT smaller than actually looking at the part in person. I got some 4" elbows (2-45* and 1-90*) figuring I could make some combination of them work for me. Those looked alot larger in real-life too. None of this is going to work. There is no way to get the filter into the only space it can fit and plumb it to the turbo. It was suggested by a friend to put the filter on the driver side. I did not like the sound of it, and did not like the mental image that my mind created of it, but desperate times call for blah, blah, blah... I ended up entertaining the thought enough to see what would be required to get it over there. The thought did not last long because I would have to place a 45* elbow directly on top of the intake plenum or intercooler pipe. The problem was that there was not enough hool clearance for the elbow to sit up there. Uuuuugh!! What the hell am I going to do?? Is it too late to go back to a big block??
I found something else to work on (don't remember what) and went on about my business. A few days later I went out for a few minutes and decided to cut up some short sections of 4" pipe to connect the elbows. I cut the pipe, de-burred it and started fubling around with trying to make something usable out of them. I ended up with something that looked like it might work, but the coolant puke tank was not going to work. Uuuuugh. Wait!! What about moving the tank to the drivers side. I took it over to the drivers side, set it 90* clockwise from how it would sit on the passenger fender and almost fell over laughing when I saw that two of the three feet actually fit the fenderwell at the correct angle!! No-way!! But it gets better--no, really!! The third foot needs a flat spot to mount to. I looked down through the hole only to see the only flat spot on the whole fenderwell sitting DIRECTLY UNDER THE FOOT!! No!! This can't be possible!! Oh, but it was!! The only fab work required was to make a spacer about .375" to fill the space between the flat foot and the flat spot on the fenderwell and drill three holes!! There were clearance issues with the hood hinge, but I'll let the pics show that.
Here is what I came up with for the air filter and plumbing: (it still needs a support bracket and clamps on it) It actually clears the alternator by a fuzz and will have a fair bit of clearance to the fenderwell when a support bracket is installed.
Puke tank mounted to drivers fenderwell: (notice how the hose nipple points in a nice downward angle that matches the shape of the fenderwell also the pic makes the tank look like it is mounted at a goofy angle when it is actually quite level)
Now, the hood hinges on these trucks are monsterous pieces of iron. The throw of the hinges is measured in feet. A clearance issue is going to result. Look back at the previous pic and notice the back side of the tank kind of zigs then zags. This is a notch in the top of the tank (the notch does not go all the way down to the base of the tank). Believe it or not, the hood hinge uses this notch for clearance!! The pic shows it, but I still do not believe it.
So there you have it. A bunch of big stuff making a big, cavernous engine compartment seem positively tiny.
Oh, by the way, I'm getting closer.....
I don't know what to say besides amazing, simply amazing. The quality of workmanship is really impressive. All of the Cummins swaps I've seen look like a drunk redneck with a torch, a buzzbox, a case of cheap beer and a roll of duct tape slapped it together in a weekend. Yours looks like it rolled off of the assembly line, I'm truly impressed. Keep up the good work!!
And because of the good work I'll forgive you for taking out a perfectly good big block.
And because of the good work I'll forgive you for taking out a perfectly good big block.
Wow!! Thanks!!
I have been gotten several requests/demands for an update, so here it goes. I have been working on the wiring lately and it is about as exciting as watching paint drying on grass that is growing. That, and, I make very slow progress so taking pics just drags out the process, but I did take a few, so here they are:
I guess I should give a bit of background on how I wire my vehicles. I use factory terminals, connectors, crimping tools, wire (thermal cross-linked polyethylene jacketed) and the factory high-temp loom when I build a harness. When I am done I require it to have the appearance, durability, longevity, and servicability of a factory wiring harness. This is no easy feat. All of the equipment listed is expensive and most is not readily available. If I run out of loom for example, I can not run down to the local parts store and pick some up. Some terminals and even a couple connectors are available, but that is about it. I started this strange obsession years ago when I put an injected 5.7L in my '71 Nova. I wanted to replace the engine control harness due to age, but I couldn't bring myself to pay the rediculous amount of money that they cost, just to cut it up and throw most of it away. At that point I started accumulating the factory terminals and connectors. Somewhere along the way I felt rich and bought three factory crimping tools for about $125.00 each. As time went by, I found more and more terminals and now I have three bin drawers full (way over-stuffed would be a much more accurate term) of the oe terminals with several boxes of factory connectors both Weather Pack and non-sealed (56 &59 series). I have one bin drawer of typical generic terminals (mostly ring terminals) that rarely get used. When I do use them, I pull the plastic off the end, then crimp, solder and apply heat shrink to seal them.
Ok, now that boredom has completely set-in, here is a few pics.
I needed a different temp switch for the cold start timing advance, so I ordered one from Cummins. The switch was different than the one that I had, so it required the use of a new harness. It wasn't terribly priced (about $25.00).
The problem is I was going to have to cut up half of it to make it work with my setup. I did some checking with my suppliers and found the correct connector body. The connector body uses pull-to-seat terminals (put the wire through the connector body, crimp the terminal on the wire then pull it back into the connector to lock the terminal in place) and I was out of this particular series (fairly common--just forgot to re-order when I used the last one). If I cut up the Cummins harness, I still needed the terminals because I do not splice wires. I remove the terminal from the connector and run my own wire into it. I got the connector body and a pack of 20 terminals for about $7.00.
Being this motor was originally in a Dodge, there were several Dodge connectors on it. I was able to convert all but one to GM connectors. The only one that I could not convert was the connector for the fuel heater. Refusing to splice wires, I searched for and found some oe Dodge terminals.
The story goes on and on, but here is a pic of the fan relays and fuses. I had a time figuring out a place to put them, so I put them on the inside of the fender next to the battery. It keeps them out of the way, but yet they can still be accessed if necessary. The jumbled mess of wire in the core support was not finished yet.
I decided to replace the lift pump with a better unit. It looks like the one off of a P-pump motor, but it is different--to the tune of double the money
. The P-pump lift pump puts out too much pressure to use on my motor. This new pump keeps pressure and volume up at high engine loads where the original design falters.
So there you have it. Not much to look at, but it sure is nice to have most of it done. I have to take a couple pics of a few things in the interior that I did. With this stuff done, I'm very close to starting functional electrical tests.
Where did you find the factory dogde connector and terminals?
I salvaged the connector body from the engine harness that I got with the motor. I do not recall where I found the terminals though. I got them shortly after I got the engine, but I do not remember where.
Since this project has taken longer than expected, I decided I had better put an A/C compressor on it now rather than wait. I am glad I decided to do it this way as I did not realize how much work it was going to take.
I went shopping through an A/C parts book and found a compressor off of a Sterling class 8 Tractor that looked like it would work great. I got it and installed it then instantly came to the realization that most of the work I spent on the accessory drive belt and lower hose was going to have to be re-done. Swell.
The location of the compressor, directly under the alternator, created a situation that would have the belt coming off of the alternator and just barely glancing off of the compressor clutch. This would result in the belt screaming when the compressor engages. Not good. The problem is, there is not enough backside idler pullies in the system to re-route the belt and keep enough wrap on other vital components. I needed to add another backside idler, but there is no room to do it--none. I got an idea to try moving the compressor away from the engine. This worked rather well. It gave me some room to work with, but it also put the fittings for the compressor into the intercooler tube. I can deal with the intercooler tube later, but I need the clearance for a pulley now. I had Russ machine me up four 1.25" spacers for the compressor to make the room for the new pulley. I used the same pulley that is used on the tensioner to keep things simpler. I fabbed up a bracket to mount the pulley, but there were a couple problems with it. The major problem was the tensioner could swing down and make contact with it.
First bracket fail:
The back of the holes it mounts to can kind of be seen it this pic. They are the shiny ones on the back of the front face. The lower set of holes have bolts in them:
It kind of sucked that this did not work as it was fairly quick to make and it looked good, but oh well. So I got to messing around with pulley location and found that the pulley needs to be mounted almost directly over one the top mounting hole of my first bracket. I could use that hole to mount the pulley to but it is only 8mm 1.25. I do not want to go any smaller than 10mm 1.5. So I came up with a bracket that used the bottom hole on the upper mounting pad and the two holes on the lower mounting pad. This allowed me to put a bolt hole where I need it without having to bore out the casting. The only problem with using the upper and lower pads is that they are on two different planes. I measured them out to be off by .250". Easy enough, just weld a piece of 1/4" flat stock to the back of my idler bracket.
I called on Russ's 24/7 Machine Shop to make a couple pulley bushings for this. I had him basically duplicate the mounting bushing for a 4.3L (same as a 5.0L and 5.7L TBI) idler pulley, but making the base thicker so the pulley is spaced correctly for proper alignment. While he was at it I requested a "washer" for the front of the pulley. Once again, he delivered in first class style exactly what was needed.
So with all of this, I was able to mount everything up and see what works. After several(!!) attempts at finding the correct belt length, I finally found one. One thing I learned through this is that changing a belt on this is an absolute royal hemorrhaging pain in the ass (putting it very mildly). That being the case, I do not want to do it again. I decided to go with one of Gates' HD serpentine belts. These are going over 100K in the new Class 8 trucks that had been cooking off standard belts in 10-30K. I figure if it will go 100K on a Class 8 with EGR, it should last forever in my truck. The only issue I have with it is its nasty color. Now mind you my favorite color is green, but this just does not do it for me. Oh well, I will deal with the ugly color to not have to deal with changing it again anytime soon. In this pic the spacers for the compressor are visible and it shows the belt wrap on the compressor (well over 180*). There should be no issues with squeal on any component now. It looks like the belt is real close to touching between the new idler and the water pump pulley, but there is actually about 3/8" clearance between them.
So I found a compressor for a Peterbilt application that should work good. I just have to pick it up and get everything back together. I am getting farther away, but closer.....
I went shopping through an A/C parts book and found a compressor off of a Sterling class 8 Tractor that looked like it would work great. I got it and installed it then instantly came to the realization that most of the work I spent on the accessory drive belt and lower hose was going to have to be re-done. Swell.
The location of the compressor, directly under the alternator, created a situation that would have the belt coming off of the alternator and just barely glancing off of the compressor clutch. This would result in the belt screaming when the compressor engages. Not good. The problem is, there is not enough backside idler pullies in the system to re-route the belt and keep enough wrap on other vital components. I needed to add another backside idler, but there is no room to do it--none. I got an idea to try moving the compressor away from the engine. This worked rather well. It gave me some room to work with, but it also put the fittings for the compressor into the intercooler tube. I can deal with the intercooler tube later, but I need the clearance for a pulley now. I had Russ machine me up four 1.25" spacers for the compressor to make the room for the new pulley. I used the same pulley that is used on the tensioner to keep things simpler. I fabbed up a bracket to mount the pulley, but there were a couple problems with it. The major problem was the tensioner could swing down and make contact with it.
First bracket fail:
The back of the holes it mounts to can kind of be seen it this pic. They are the shiny ones on the back of the front face. The lower set of holes have bolts in them:
It kind of sucked that this did not work as it was fairly quick to make and it looked good, but oh well. So I got to messing around with pulley location and found that the pulley needs to be mounted almost directly over one the top mounting hole of my first bracket. I could use that hole to mount the pulley to but it is only 8mm 1.25. I do not want to go any smaller than 10mm 1.5. So I came up with a bracket that used the bottom hole on the upper mounting pad and the two holes on the lower mounting pad. This allowed me to put a bolt hole where I need it without having to bore out the casting. The only problem with using the upper and lower pads is that they are on two different planes. I measured them out to be off by .250". Easy enough, just weld a piece of 1/4" flat stock to the back of my idler bracket.
I called on Russ's 24/7 Machine Shop to make a couple pulley bushings for this. I had him basically duplicate the mounting bushing for a 4.3L (same as a 5.0L and 5.7L TBI) idler pulley, but making the base thicker so the pulley is spaced correctly for proper alignment. While he was at it I requested a "washer" for the front of the pulley. Once again, he delivered in first class style exactly what was needed.
So with all of this, I was able to mount everything up and see what works. After several(!!) attempts at finding the correct belt length, I finally found one. One thing I learned through this is that changing a belt on this is an absolute royal hemorrhaging pain in the ass (putting it very mildly). That being the case, I do not want to do it again. I decided to go with one of Gates' HD serpentine belts. These are going over 100K in the new Class 8 trucks that had been cooking off standard belts in 10-30K. I figure if it will go 100K on a Class 8 with EGR, it should last forever in my truck. The only issue I have with it is its nasty color. Now mind you my favorite color is green, but this just does not do it for me. Oh well, I will deal with the ugly color to not have to deal with changing it again anytime soon. In this pic the spacers for the compressor are visible and it shows the belt wrap on the compressor (well over 180*). There should be no issues with squeal on any component now. It looks like the belt is real close to touching between the new idler and the water pump pulley, but there is actually about 3/8" clearance between them.
So I found a compressor for a Peterbilt application that should work good. I just have to pick it up and get everything back together. I am getting farther away, but closer.....
I have gotten a few more things done lately. I figured out where my windshield washer reservoir needed to be located. I had some room left under the passenger battery tray, behind the headlight. I had a time trying to find a reservoir to fit in the allotted space and finally ended up with another '91 V3500 part. It fit the space great and met the requirements of having an integral electric pump. I got the reservoir and every other component, so I can get rid of the metal nozzles and go with wet arms. Just FYI, if anyone is thinking of trying this, the wiper arms from the later-body trucks are too long for these trucks.
In addition to three underdash/floor lamps, I also added a rear view mirror from a '93 S10. It has the two lamps that come on with the door jamb switches and stay on for 15 seconds or the key is turned to the run position (whichever comes first). I fished the wires up the "A" pillar and then across the panel above the windshield. I thought fishing wires up the "A" pillar was a bitch until I started fishing them across the panel above the windshield. Man, did that ever bring the suck. I finally succeeded and it is a pretty cool feature. The pic makes the wires look like they are hap-hazardly routed, but in real-life they look pretty clean.
I also figured out where my auxilliary (tach, EGT, and boost) gauges have to go. I wanted them in front of me, but with the way they did the defroster ducts, it would have left me with no defrost on my side. I had to put them to the right of the defrost duct, partially covering the speaker grille in the dash. Unfortuantely, I will not be able to run center speakers now, but oh well.
As of now, I have performed functional electrical tests and after taking care of a couple glitches, everything operates as intended.
It's getting close, real close.....
In addition to three underdash/floor lamps, I also added a rear view mirror from a '93 S10. It has the two lamps that come on with the door jamb switches and stay on for 15 seconds or the key is turned to the run position (whichever comes first). I fished the wires up the "A" pillar and then across the panel above the windshield. I thought fishing wires up the "A" pillar was a bitch until I started fishing them across the panel above the windshield. Man, did that ever bring the suck. I finally succeeded and it is a pretty cool feature. The pic makes the wires look like they are hap-hazardly routed, but in real-life they look pretty clean.
I also figured out where my auxilliary (tach, EGT, and boost) gauges have to go. I wanted them in front of me, but with the way they did the defroster ducts, it would have left me with no defrost on my side. I had to put them to the right of the defrost duct, partially covering the speaker grille in the dash. Unfortuantely, I will not be able to run center speakers now, but oh well.
As of now, I have performed functional electrical tests and after taking care of a couple glitches, everything operates as intended.
It's getting close, real close.....
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So awesome!
bronc3buster842001
1/2 ton status
Where are yoy getting the terminals and everything for a GM. Im building my own harness for the TPI setup in my project.
GM is easy to get connectors for. It's the other brands that a pain to get.
Here are some "general" stuff.
http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/M37/320/550/MULTI-PIN%20CONNECTORS/TERMINALS%20AND%20CONNECTORS/
http://www.ctwinc.com/packard.htm
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=TERM060&PCAT=40509#Categories
And here is one place to get the special connectors.
http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=qfkh1c20tgec0he1icit9j2sq6
bronc3buster842001
1/2 ton status
Cool. I ordered some terminals from terminal supply co once. Just seein if anywhere was cheaper.
