The wagonner build...Motor started videos up.

[broncoman6524]

...all you're lacking is the leopard carpet and some strobe lights...

Problem is...we cant even blame alchol on some of these pictures

THe thing is bad... we have wheeled together alot, adn he can go throuhg more stuff than i can. prolly because of hte Tsls, but still. I was thourghly impressed with how it performed before all this...(tranny, motor, axles, etc went bad)

He just needs to clean it more

 

[nad]

Yeah, it seems like TSL's handle mud very well. Every one of my friends with Jeeps have TSL's and even with their little 4 bangers, they still manage to crawl further through the mud than me. Of course that was with my weak, worn out 305.

 

[broncoman6524]

Yeah, it seems like TSL's handle mud very well. Every one of my friends with Jeeps have TSL's and even with their little 4 bangers, they still manage to crawl further through the mud than me. Of course that was with my weak, worn out 305.

Then you go to school and get **** for it right? haha tahts my life...the a/t suck in the mud. And you cant explain to anybody the fact that weight is a bit different between the two...

 

[original balzer]

How the hell do you do a spring over on the housing part? Were confused. The drivers side perch is integrated into the housing, do i weld a plate on top and gusset it? or what?

IIRC, you have to grind a spot on the top. Then theres a purpose built spring perch that welds to the bottom spring perch and outside the cast housing to the tube (on one side) rather than welding to the cast housing. The other perch is raised to match and welds on to the stock perch and the axle tube.

Balzer

EDIT: Thinking again I belive the drivers side does not weld on. Just grind a place and it wraps around and uses a bottom plate on the stock perch.

 

[broncoman6524]

EDIT: Thinking again I belive the drivers side does not weld on. Just grind a place and it wraps around and uses a bottom plate on the stock perch.

Sorry...but thats not making sense to me...

We went to the local 4x4shop and got a set of D44 perches. I wasnt paying attention...(drooling over swampers haha) But i believe she told my buddy they were for a spring over conversion.

As seen...both are the exact same.

These are of the drivers side mount...i guess i *could* grind the housing down to accept the perches that we bought...except then i couldn't be 100% sure they would be the same height.

 

[cegusman]

D44, 39.5's, and full spool... sounds like breakage.

I ran this setup for a week. went through 3 sets of shafts per side in that week Then put the spider gears back in and broke the shafts ever few weeks. Then upgraded to the 60, end of problems.

 

[original balzer]

Heres a very crude drawing of what I mean. The blue is the spring over perch that is not welded on. the red would be your u-bolts of corse. Im pretty sure you have to grind the housing to make it fit. Welding to the cast housing is best left to profesional welders as I think it needs pre-heated special rod ect. And like I said b4 im pretty sure they come in a set and the other perch for the pass side is taller that the ones you showed ,and welds directly to the tube.

Balzer

 

[broncoman6524]

ah...im following you now. but if it isn't welded to the axle, wouldnt that create a problem with axle wrap?

 

[YELL78]

i think your build is cool i like the full size jeep stuff.
i think you contact pattern on your gears looks to be a little off, from what ive been taught its suposed to be a little closer toward the center of the teeth not so close to the edge.

 

[colbystephens]

seems to me that it would not be a problem because, assuming a nice snug fit, the flat piece on the bottom would prevent rotation. this rotation prevention would be even more increased by the ubolts pulling the bottom plate up against that flat part.

 

[broncoman6524]

seems to me that it would not be a problem because, assuming a nice snug fit, the flat piece on the bottom would prevent rotation. this rotation prevention would be even more increased by the ubolts pulling the bottom plate up against that flat part.

Thats a good point. i missunderstood. AGAIN, and didnt read the part about a plate below going across the "old" perch.

This actually makes perfect sense.

 

[Jason4x4]

From what I can tell from your gear pattern, it looks like it isn't set deep enough. Lik one earlier post said, the gear needs to mesh in the center.

 

[broncoman6524]

Thats what i was thinkin too...the backlash i think is right but i thin the pinion needs 1more shim

 

[CUCV2]

One Tons

A set of one tons might solve a couple of your issues. They are already spring over and will handle 39s. CUCV axles have the 4.56 gears and a Detroit in back. govliquidation.com may help. Of course you may end up with a fairly complete CUCV and want to wheel that instead. Ask me how I know.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

he would need a 60 from a ford, his jeep is driver's drop.
actually a ford 44 would solve his perch problems also.

 

[stallion85]

One of the coolest wheelers I know drives a waggy

 

[broncoman6524]

UPDATE!

Motor: Got it back from the machine shop.

The bottom end is assembled and the heads are on and torque, waiting on the cam which should be here tomorrow.

We were bored and decided to put one of my 44s under it...son of a bitch is bigger than my project truck ::

Ill let the pics talk.

Dont even ask...

 

[colbystephens]

 

[broncoman6524]

Got a urgent question...

Got the cam in the motor, realized that there is no "key". Looked at the cam gear and it has a slot for one, aswell as the fuell pump thingy, distributer drive gear.

We are both pretty damn confused here...i could see tightening up the end screw and making everything tight, therefore *hopefully* holding the cam to the gear.

If this was such, and would work, how do you properly line up the two dots for timing?!? Yes you could physically do it, but how can we be sure that the camshaft is in proper timing? Im hoping this makes sense...On the new cam it has 2 indentations for where you could put keys...and i just called him. He says on his old cam that it has 2 keys that look like they just "pop" out and should then pop into the new cam. Is this right? is there a specific way to do this? the haynes book we had been following couldnt help us.

We ran the part number on the box to make sure and accodring to summit racing its the AMC lunati cam. (PN 06176)

 

[colbystephens]

i'm not much help, but after you do get it installed, make sure you turn the engine over by hand to make sure that you have the timing at least correct enough that the valves don't hit the pistons... that way if you hvae any guesswork involved (which hopefully you don't) you won't have an interferance issue when you hit the starter for teh first time.