The wagonner build...Motor started videos up.

[broncoman6524]

Thats the plan, were actually going to put play dough on top of the piston, and hook up 1 set of rocker arms and see how much room there is and stuff too...

 

[Jason4x4]

Got a urgent question...

Got the cam in the motor, realized that there is no "key". Looked at the cam gear and it has a slot for one, aswell as the fuell pump thingy, distributer drive gear.

We are both pretty damn confused here...i could see tightening up the end screw and making everything tight, therefore *hopefully* holding the cam to the gear.

If this was such, and would work, how do you properly line up the two dots for timing?!? Yes you could physically do it, but how can we be sure that the camshaft is in proper timing? Im hoping this makes sense...On the new cam it has 2 indentations for where you could put keys...and i just called him. He says on his old cam that it has 2 keys that look like they just "pop" out and should then pop into the new cam. Is this right? is there a specific way to do this? the haynes book we had been following couldnt help us.

We ran the part number on the box to make sure and accodring to summit racing its the AMC lunati cam. (PN 06176)

pm 4x4high and ask him, he runs a machine shop.

 

[rjpastor]

I had a 1971 Wagoneer in the early 80s. It had a Buick 350 V8, Turbo 400, D44s - damn thing went ANYWHERE, bone stock!! Wish I still had it.

 

[nad]

I had a 1971 Wagoneer in the early 80s. It had a Buick 350 V8, Turbo 400, D44s - damn thing went ANYWHERE, bone stock!! Wish I still had it.

I don't know that I would consider a Jeep with a Buick 350 and turbo 400 with D44s on it "bone stock"....

 

[3 on the tree]

I don't know that I would consider a Jeep with a Buick 350 and turbo 400 with D44s on it "bone stock"....

Those parts are what it left the factory with........................

I keep telling folks if they want a BOP motor in a Blazer, then find one of these trannies .

 

[HarryH3]

I don't know that I would consider a Jeep with a Buick 350 and turbo 400 with D44s on it "bone stock"....

I also had a '71 Wagoneer, as my first 4WD. Complete with the woodgrain stripe down each side! (But not those full coverage woodgrain panels like in the pics above!)

In that timeframe, Jeep built rigs with whatever parts were available. Mine had the Buick 350, Turbo 400, along with other oddities, such as a Motorola alternator. Just to purchase an alternator belt for that rig, I had to know the VIN, because Jeep apparently changed the configuration 3 times during the model year.

 

[MUDNUTT]

My 1st truck was a 69 or 70 J2000. Was factory stock and had a Buick 350 and a standard tranny. Was a fun truck.

Deck

 

[rlepage]

Got a urgent question...

Got the cam in the motor, realized that there is no "key". Looked at the cam gear and it has a slot for one, aswell as the fuell pump thingy, distributer drive gear.

We are both pretty damn confused here...i could see tightening up the end screw and making everything tight, therefore *hopefully* holding the cam to the gear.

If this was such, and would work, how do you properly line up the two dots for timing?!? Yes you could physically do it, but how can we be sure that the camshaft is in proper timing? Im hoping this makes sense...On the new cam it has 2 indentations for where you could put keys...and i just called him. He says on his old cam that it has 2 keys that look like they just "pop" out and should then pop into the new cam. Is this right? is there a specific way to do this? the haynes book we had been following couldnt help us.

We ran the part number on the box to make sure and accodring to summit racing its the AMC lunati cam. (PN 06176)

Use a pair of sidecutters to pull the keys out of the old cam and tap them into the new one. The machine shop that did the motor work could probably get you a couple too. Don't install the cam without the keys, it will slip and you will do damage.

 

[broncoman6524]

We have done some more work on it...been a while since i updated it. Progress has been slow, but the motor is 85% done...waiting on new pushrods and the dipstick.

Question 1: To Torque the nuts holding the rockers down (19 for this AMC) we want both valves to be in the closed postition correct? This is how we did it before with the old pushrods, then decided to put new ones in since we lost one.

The 9" is done...the 3rd member atleast. The 5.13s are in and have a good contact pattern. Tomorrow we are going to replace the axle seals and bearings and put it all back together.

Question 2: Crossover...

Since the steering box is mounted on the inside of the frame, rather the outside. And that it is a chevy 44...is it possible to buy a steering arm for a stock chevy, that doesn't have the typical "C" shape to it for push and pull? and if there is, Would it be a bad idea to do crossover this way?

The thought we both had was that it would work, and just make or order a custom Drag-link for it.

Heres pics to try and help...

 

[broncoman6524]

I did a quick paintchop Of what i was trying to ask...

Yes it's a crappy drawing, and the way i shaped the "arm" on the steering nuckle is completely BAD, but is the entire idea wrong?

Or is the entire point of crossing to the other side to have a longer drag-link, and thus the need for less of a drop or raised arm?

 

[big dan]

sounds like a fun senior project. where I come from we didnt have senior projects.

 

[broncoman6524]

Thanks man...yeah. No you don't what your reading/seeing is the fun part. This is like 1/4 of the grade...

Its mostly based upon research papers, project proposals, speeches, etc. LOTs of paperwork. Really kinda sucks. And mine is sitting in the yard with weeds taking it over

 

[zero cool]

So did you get the cam key straightened out?

If you need parts for that wagon, you should try Bulltear. They have saved me many times as I've been building the 401 for my cherokee (see the link in my signature).

If you haven't checked it out yet, you should go over to the International Full Size Jeep Association. They're a lot like this forum but for those full size Jeeps.

 

[imiceman44]

Those parts are what it left the factory with........................

I keep telling folks if they want a BOP motor in a Blazer, then find one of these trannies .

Well the 350 buick and th400 were stock in the early 70's but that th400 is not a BOP pattern, I have yet to figure out what the hell it is but it's a round shape and had a 1/4" plate to connect to a BOP pattern.
I have one sitting in my garage, i will be cutting off the bellhousing and bolting a new belhousing on it with chevy pattern.

I have a few comments on the past posts since I just found this:

First I have a 75 waggy with the rest of my chevy fleet and I love it as much as the chevy trucks, it has it's place, it's light it's roomy, it's a few inches narrower than the chevy but inside is the same, just slimmer doors.

The Full size jeeps or FSJ's had D44's both front and rear in the 70's regardless of W/T or N/T the AMC20 started late 70's or early 80's.
Manuals were offered in Cherokees but not many and I don't know if waggy had the option but I would be surprized if it weren't.

For SOA the perche on the pumpkin side can be welded to the pumpkin, I did it, I just had to grind on the perche (not the pumpkin) to make it same height and I didn't even preheat, just mig welded it with multiple passes and with the highest setting and it made it red hot by the time I was finished and since it will be bolted on tight it doesn't have too much force on it except sheer to twist, it did fine for as long as I had the axle.

As for what was on the FSJ as parts, don't get me started, whatever they had on hand would go on, and they didn't pick the best parts except for the th400 and the GM steering column.
Now my waggy sports GM axles, GM tranny/tcase, GM gas tanks, GM springs, GM steering column (stock) and soon GM 6.2 l diesel engine.
It will still have a Jeep body and frame and by the way the frame on the waggy is boxed to the middle where the cross member for the tcase bolts on then open C channel from there.

 

[imiceman44]

I did a quick paintchop Of what i was trying to ask...

Yes it's a crappy drawing, and the way i shaped the "arm" on the steering nuckle is completely BAD, but is the entire idea wrong?

Or is the entire point of crossing to the other side to have a longer drag-link, and thus the need for less of a drop or raised arm?

No, don't even go there.
You have 2 options for doing this:
the stock configuration is a cross over style, but it bolts to the tie rod on the passenger side, I had lots of arguments on the FSJ website with morons that don't understand english and say this is not cross over because it doesn't bolt to the arm
And you can go with any of the aftermarket arms for cross over and you only need to make a shorter drag link since the Waggy box is on the inside and the frame is a little narrower than a GM, there might even be a drag link made specifically for the waggy you can check on the FSJ website that was posted earlier here.
The reason behind going further for a longer drag link is not the fact that you can go with less of dropped pitman arm but the angle change would be less the longer the drag link, which in turn means less of bump steer.
If you do go with a cross over to the other knuckle you would have the best geometry because that is the longest you can have it.

 

[imiceman44]

So did you get the cam key straightened out?

If you need parts for that wagon, you should try Bulltear. They have saved me many times as I've been building the 401 for my cherokee (see the link in my signature).

If you haven't checked it out yet, you should go over to the International Full Size Jeep Association. They're a lot like this forum but for those full size Jeeps.

Yeah I am a member there but be ware there are big some big shots that control the site and they are close minded, they think what they know is the only way to go and they are the gods there.
I just go there for some fun reading and to sell my stuff, I stopped trying to talk any sense into them.

 

[zero cool]

Yeah I am a member there but be ware there are big some big shots that control the site and they are close minded, they think what they know is the only way to go and they are the gods there.
I just go there for some fun reading and to sell my stuff, I stopped trying to talk any sense into them.

Yeah. I don't post so much over there these days. But it's not a bad place to go to find parts.

 

[broncoman6524]

HE i

 

[broncoman6524]

He's a member on that website. We figured out the spring over problem...CHEVY 44 :P for now hes just going to use his stock np229 while we build the dana 20 we found in a local yard for it.

Got some more updates...kinda dark so it may be hard to see the shackle flip, It's bolted on like you would on a chevy, and my dad also ran beads across both sides.

I dont want to ever hear him say again "Chevy Sucks"...my only response will be where did your front axle and rear hangers come from?

These are the wheels...got em free from work

Cleaned up purty good huh?

Stock hanger.

Nekkid.

Old 44.

 

[broncoman6524]

and heres the flip installed.

We had to flip his springs backwards, the "normal" way to run them put his center pin about 1 inch back from the door jam, now it about 6-7. There are lines on the body in the pic, dont think you can see them very well though.