CK5
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"The white truck" My 89 V3500 **DRIVING IT

I'm a little late to the motor discussion party on this one. First off, I have always loved your crew cab. It, along with other ones I saw on the internet, coaxed me to want to build one into a tow rig for myself instead of buying a new 3/4 or 1 ton tow truck. There is something about these crew cab square bodies that just screams awesomeness flagwaver

So, don't know if you have seen my build to my crew cab yet or not (link in my sig), but I went through all the same processes of you when deciding what drivetrain I wanted to swap into mine. I looked at 12v's, LS's, 4l80e's, Allison's, pretty much everything. I decided on an 8.1/NV4500 in place of my 350TBI/TH400. Obviously my situation may be different than yours and I may want something different out of my truck than what you really want, but I found that swapping an 8.1/NV4500 into these crew cab squares is about as straight forward as you can get (even easier than a 6.0 since you don't have to worry about conversion motor mounts and exhaust is a little easier to deal with). Also, it was going to be cheaper/easier to accomplish than a 12v cause, at least in my area, 12v's are going for a lot of money, about double what I paid for my 8.1 with only 91k miles on it, and there is more fab work to get them installed (or you can buy the really high priced kits that make them easier to swap). Plus, I factored in the long term maintenance of both options and track record shows how much less you will spend on an LS based motor (even though the 8.1 isn't technically an LS, they have proved to go well over 200K miles on them with little to nothing done to them just like the 5.3/6.0 motors) as compared to a diesel. Though the 12v is a bad a$$ motor and can go for a long time too, most everyone says you will usually pay a pretty penny each time it goes down for a repair (usually).

Anywho, I just wanted to give you my experience so far since we have pretty much the same truck and you were contemplating the same things I did with what do to with the powerplants. I think the 8.1 is a great motor for the couple time a month tow guy like some of us. And since like me, you will not DD this truck, I don't think gas mileage should be your overall goal IMO. Cause the way I looked at it was I could pay about ~$4000 more to swap in a 12v (once again, looking at the prices of everything in my area) just to get maybe 5 mpg's more overall with the truck. Since I won't DD this truck, I calculated it would take me about 7 years to regain my cost of the swap back in gas money with today's gas prices (yes, I'm a weird accountant that enjoys calculating crap like that). To me, that didn't make too much sense.

Sorry for the long post, but just thought you might like another perspective :thumb:
 
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Yeah I am still kind of stuck on that decision. I am going to try a few simple things with this 454 to see if I can get it running right. It has never impressed me in the time I have owned it, but I am certain it's never ran at it's potential either. I am definitely not even considering a 5.3/6.0 after hearing others tow stories. The 8.1 has caught my attention though. I will check out your thread. I thought about buying that truck before you did ;)
 
Yeah I am still kind of stuck on that decision. I am going to try a few simple things with this 454 to see if I can get it running right. It has never impressed me in the time I have owned it, but I am certain it's never ran at it's potential either. I am definitely not even considering a 5.3/6.0 after hearing others tow stories. The 8.1 has caught my attention though. I will check out your thread. I thought about buying that truck before you did ;)

Haha, well thank you for not picking it up cause some of us really want to get into the square crew cab scene too, and it's getting harder and harder to find them in good shape :waytogo:
 
Well I figured I already have 2. If it was a 454 truck it might have been a different story. Haha!
 
So I ordered a new distributor, coil, TBI rebuild kit, and a fuel pressure spring for this thing. Last time I was under the cap I remember it being pretty crusty under there. I don't know if the fuel pressure spring will matter with stock pumps or not, but it was cheap.

Is swapping the dist pretty simple?
Find TDC on #1
Pull Dist
Line up the new one to #1
Re install?
 
A stock Vortec pump will work great in that sending unit. And the regulator made a big difference on my factory 4wd 454 1 ton Suburban. Mine runs 14.5psi if memory serves.
 
A stock Vortec pump will work great in that sending unit. And the regulator made a big difference on my factory 4wd 454 1 ton Suburban. Mine runs 14.5psi if memory serves.

I couldn't find much online about the fuel pressure reg springs. It was on Amazon while I was shopping for the gasket stuff. Did you try it without the upgraded pump?
 
A stock Vortec pump will work great in that sending unit. And the regulator made a big difference on my factory 4wd 454 1 ton Suburban. Mine runs 14.5psi if memory serves.

I found the EP377 pump this weekend which was stock for 94-95 TBI 454s. It's a 30 psi pump so I think that's what I will go with. There is some debate online if the throttle body can regulate the 381 Vortec pump down enough. I got the driver tank out on Saturday. The pump runs ish. I put 12v to it and it spun up good then slowly bogged down and even stopped at one point until I bumped power again. I am going to replace both sending units and do the 377 pumps. I still haven't researched the fuel pressure spring thing much.
 
I ended up ordering Spectra pieces vs Dorman and Delco. The Spectra stuff seems to be pretty popular for OE stuff especially with the later model guys. SP05M1H and N1H are the part numbers for the LH/RH sending units complete with SP1114 pumps (10-20 psi is what Spectra states). Tanks are out.

Any tips on cleaning up the small amount of debris in the tanks?

tanks.jpg
 
Pressure wash them out at the carwash and then tip them every way possible to get water out and then dry with paper towels and let air dry. Works perfect.
 
One tank is cleaned out, cleaned up and painted awaiting the new sending unit and pump to be installed. Throttle body is off and sitting on the work bench. I think I'll find TDC tonight and pull the distributor out.

Moving along. Slowly, but moving. June has been a hectic month!
 
Progress is progress! Keep at it.

I am! Even if I get an hour in a night I try and do something. TBI rebuild should be simple. I've never done a distributor, but from everything I've read it seems simple too. Plugs, wires etc are easy. I am gonna do a compression check as well since the plugs are coming out.
 
Got the old plugs out, compression checks done, distributor out, and the throttle body mostly taken apart. The distributor looks absolutely terrible. I would be shocked if this isn't the huge majority of my problems with it not running very well.

Compression numbers are:
1-155
3-155
5-160
7-165
2-162
4-160
6-153
8-160

Here are some pics since I know we all like pics!

Before picture of the gas tanks. Pretty good for 28 year old tanks with no coating on them. I rubbed them down with some steel wool and gave them a good shot of flat black paint.






The Edelbrock intake I never knew it had.



TBI ready to come apart.


Driver side tank ready to be reinstalled.







Crusty!


Fuel pressure adaptor and TBI mostly disassembled.
 
Awesome stuff!

Yeah, I bet a new dist. fixes everything. That thing looks nasty.

Yeah me too! None of the plugs looked real great either which isn't surprising. I don't know how the pickup even worked at all with the rust. I got a new coil and some Taylor wires too. The plugs I pulled out are 44TS and the new plugs I bought are 43TS. Is that a big enough difference to matter?
 
From a Chevelle sight:

If you have heads for sml 5/8" socket with 1970 or newer heads Try R44TS to start,then go up or down in heat range as required after some test rides and checking plugs.

If they are the 1969 or older heads that take long reach std or extended tip plugs ( both use 13/16" socket) then try the R44N (std tip) or R44XLS (ext tip) and move up down in heat range as req.

The extended tip plugs were designed to place the center of the plug a little further into the combustion chamber running a little hotter to stay cleaner in traffic or when in low load situations . But then the run cooler when under high load/WOT due to the increased air & fuel mix entering the chamber,it's kind of like a semi dual heat range plug to an extent.

The higher the # on the plug the hotter the heatrange ,the lower the # the cooler the heat range is.

R = Resistor
4 = 14 mm Thread
5 = Heat Range
T = Taper Seat
S = Extended Tip
 
From a Chevelle sight:

If you have heads for sml 5/8" socket with 1970 or newer heads Try R44TS to start,then go up or down in heat range as required after some test rides and checking plugs.

If they are the 1969 or older heads that take long reach std or extended tip plugs ( both use 13/16" socket) then try the R44N (std tip) or R44XLS (ext tip) and move up down in heat range as req.

The extended tip plugs were designed to place the center of the plug a little further into the combustion chamber running a little hotter to stay cleaner in traffic or when in low load situations . But then the run cooler when under high load/WOT due to the increased air & fuel mix entering the chamber,it's kind of like a semi dual heat range plug to an extent.

The higher the # on the plug the hotter the heatrange ,the lower the # the cooler the heat range is.

R = Resistor
4 = 14 mm Thread
5 = Heat Range
T = Taper Seat
S = Extended Tip

Yeah the 43s are a step cooler than the 44s that were in it. I don't know much about plug heat ranges. I have a set of 44Ts, but they are short. The extended ones are nice with these heads and manifolds. When I ordered all my parts there was only 7 44TS plugs in stock is why I got the 43s.
 
TBI is cleaned, rebuilt and put back together. Plugs are in, new sending unit installed in driver tank, new coil and distributor installed. Hopefully get the TB and driver tank re-installed tonight then I just have to build spark plug wires, and start it to set timing. Getting there.
 
Add some fuel and this thing should be ready to start tonight. Then I just need to set timing! Fingers crossed. I installed a fuel pressure adaptor at the Throttle body so I can see what these Spectra pumps are actually making. I also did a 14psi spring in the regulator.















 
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