CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The Willomet Charger

A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
Side benefit of the Hobart dropping another potentiometer, lots of time on the TIG machine.
DEEDF31A-F63C-4D0E-B74A-AA1F5FBB6737.jpeg

Didn’t quite make my progress goal tonight, but I’m planning on hitting it early tomorrow before work.

David
 
It was a longish weekend (and early Monday) of details. I pulled a half day on Friday, and I still didn’t make my goal of getting the front rails “done.”

I underestimated the time required to juggle some kitchen renovation tasks alongside car fab. Also, the Hobart’s new potentiometer died, and so I ended up TIG’ing a lot more than I planned, and while I like the practice and learned a lot, it’s a substantially slower process.

Outer plate burned in
F56CDF16-E822-4222-A947-371E3B24B379.jpeg

Inner plate ready to tack
EA8C03F2-F853-44FB-854A-6A7FDCB32DF5.jpeg

Lots and lots of blending original shapes to match the new overlay plates. The original steel doesn’t weld nearly as nicely as new A500 plate, so I’ve got to be careful with the current input and use a slight weave to maintain a consistent puddle.
F2A2D35A-02F2-49BE-B7E9-9799C37E5D15.jpeg

This gobbles up the hours, but the result is worthwhile
790799FF-A9FD-4B7A-9148-74274C2E8FE2.jpeg

I had some pretty radical tungsten stick-out to get to those corner welds
C47F0956-34AF-47E7-BC54-C4F4CBA35D55.jpeg

More time tonight, and now that the front plate details are complete, I just need to start fitting the top plates and get the rear plates tacked.

Closing in.

David
 
Last edited:
Copy, and paste.

Passenger rail is welded internally and tacked externally. I’m planning to close up those open corner welds tonight and tomorrow. Parts for the MIG should arrive tomorrow, and I prefer to use that machine for plug welds.

748AAEAA-8C4E-49E3-AFD3-33116F515F1D.jpeg

FAB08CCD-8BB6-498D-B496-0488649FBBB4.jpeg

704F7910-D83F-4E74-81ED-F6990F14D445.jpeg

I’m not yet a strong out-of-position TIG welder, so I’m leaving the overlay triangle welds until I can get the car on the rotisserie...unless I get brave.

David
 
I assume from your spacing and corners these will all be ground down smooth like?

Looks good man
Yeah, I’ll lightly blend these. I’m always concerned about taking away too much filler material. I usually just level each face, and slide the DA over the bead itself.

David
 
Non-dominant hand welding - got some practice on that, too.

I’m adjusting the settings for today. Looking at slightly hotter, but shorter bursts. Part of the problem on the heat input is dwell time, and I’m experimenting with some scrap first. Starting with 95A, 30% time on, 35% amps, 0.2 Hz.

David
 
I’ve never pulsed, learned from a old school guy and never had a need to try any other way.

And my 351 sycrowave doesn’t have the option. Haha

If I was welding that with my machine, I’d have a 3/32 tungesten, 90-100 Amps. Expecting to be 40-50% pedal. Acquire my puddle, watch for the bright dot of carbon on the leading edge and run my bead.

Control arms are single pass, no pulse.

Subframe to frame connector brackets have a root pass and a finish pass. Again no pulse, just running a bead





I’ll
 
Last edited:
... I’d have a 3/32 tungesten, 90-100 Amps. Expecting to be 40-50% pedal. Acquire my puddle, watch for the bright dot of carbon on the leading edge and run my bead...
Very good looking work. Notes taken.

David
 
Spent the early morning finishing welding the overlay plate. I still have to do the other side, but that will have to wait for several weeks.

F1B2803B-1B51-4094-BAB3-E69AE2C8057A.jpeg

The Charger build is idled while I turn my attention and time to suburban prep in advance of its next adventure.

55BA3774-A03B-4F64-BA96-AD21E85637B3.jpeg

I know exactly where I have to start - finish weld the other overlay plate and start building the floor support structure. If you look closely, you’ll see that 3x1 steel for the floor stored inside the car.

David
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom