CK5
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The Willomet Charger

A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
About 12-1/2”. Hard to accurately compare to original, but the bell housing parting line is back about a foot from where the 440’s would have been. Also, the LS is about 8” shorter than a 440.

David
That’s awesome. It’s going to handle so good.
 
And how much lighter is the LS7 vs an original 440? Got to be a lot! When I have weighed some LS2 and LS3 they were 357 and 370 lbs.
 
And how much lighter is the LS7 vs an original 440? Got to be a lot! When I have weighed some LS2 and LS3 they were 357 and 370 lbs.
A 440/833 combo weighs about 1300 lbs without accessories. An LS3/Magnum weighs about 615 lbs fully dressed and filled with fluid. This combination is less than half to weight, and zero pounds are cantilever out beyond the front suspension.

But yeah, Mopar people will cry. I have a special cup for those tears.

David
 
Rev2 steering shaft location is close enough to get started on the headers, so I went to the OP and started getting into the Vibrant pallet.

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The polished 2” CLR 90s are just beautiful. I’ll trim the legs for the centers.

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SendCutSend collector mounts arrive tomorrow.

David
 
Rev2 steering shaft location is close enough to get started on the headers, so I went to the OP and started getting into the Vibrant pallet.

The polished 2” CLR 90s are just beautiful. I’ll trim the legs for the centers.

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SendCutSend collector mounts arrive tomorrow.

David
Those 90s do like very nice, good start!

I have only used J bends because that is what a professional custom header company sent me as a kit when I decided to make my own after theirs hung too low. That is something I could improve, as the J bends aren't perfect, but the SPD bends were better than these stainless works bends are. I've heard good things about Burns as well. Perhaps the 90s are a better option, you would just need more of them. Thank you for showing us that.

Since you are studying those builds, I skipped down to the headers and I have some pointers. The stuff they made looks nice, but there are some things I wouldn't do for performance that look wrong to me.

I don't recommend this....they essentially put a big kink in the tube even though they did use pieces of mandrel bend. They changed directions in very short pieces and this is not good for flow. They also used multiple pieces of bend to create a very tight radius after the muffler with pie cut style. I don't recommend these unless absolutely necessary.


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Again here, they used way too many pieces just to make it "parallel" looking and added some more "kinks". I think in this application the X pipe cost more power than it gained because of the way they plumbed it. If it would of been a straight shot like I put in green, would be much better. Also , after the X pipe, they made a transition with 4 pieces, could of been 2 pieces if it was planned better. I always try to use as few of pieces as possible.


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I don't recommend turning the tailpipes around 3 sides of the fuel tank just to look like a center outlet. Yes, they did wrap the tailpipes, but I think its better not not go so close to the fuel tank for that long in the first place.

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I've heard good things about burns as well. Perhaps the 90s are a better option, you would just need more of them.
Burns is great quality. They make a similar polished 90/120 like Vibrant. Both of them run 1.87" mandrels down the legs of a deformed 90 so it's almost perfectly round.

they essentially put a big kink in the tube even though they did use piece of mandrel bend.
Yeah, I'm sure they're trying to jog around something in the fox body floor pan. I'm building the exhaust before I do the tin work for the floors, so hopefully kinks like this can be avoided.

I don't recommend turning the tailpipes around 3 sides of the fuel tank just to look like a center outlet. Yes, they did wrap the tailpipes, but I think its better not not go so close to the fuel tank for that long in the first place.
Best I can do is an early apology! Also, I'll build heat shields.

The mufflers will sit in the far corners just outside the frame rails, but the CP1 tubing that exits from them will turn and run for a merged center exit downturn just below the license plate relief. Forgive me. I'm not sure where the cutouts will exit, but it will be well ahead of the fuel cell.

Meanwhile, Rev3 steering mount is under construction. The rack moves another 1/4" to the passenger and way up. This puts the end links flat to the uprights and equal amounts of vertical adjustment for bump steer.

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Rev0 to Rev3 template.

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David
 
Yeah, I'm sure they're trying to jog around something in the fox body floor pan. I'm building the exhaust before I do the tin work for the floors, so hopefully kinks like this can be avoided.


Best I can do is an early apology! Also, I'll build heat shields.

I think you are taking care of both problems if you avoid kinks and build heat shields.

Is their any functional advantage of a center exhaust exit in road racing? Is it some aero thing with the tailpipes? Because I've always thought it looks weird but if there is a functional aspect I get it.
 
Is their any functional advantage of a center exhaust exit in road racing? Is it some aero thing with the tailpipes? Because I've always thought it looks weird but if there is a functional aspect I get it.
I think it's mostly racecar cool, and any aero advantage come from how the exhaust (regardless of exit location) works within a well sorted diffuser program. I always liked the center exit of the CTS-V coupe, so that's my excuse.

David
 
I remember that…it was JACK Beckman's car, owned by Don Schumacher Racing. The crew chief was experimenting with the angle of layback on the headers tips, and found it was increasing thrust/mph. I don’t think there was any penalty, just a new rule for the angle.


@AgDieseler , sorry for the hijackson!
 
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