CK5
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this kind of crap gets people hurt

Yea you jump the plug. The purple wire goes straight to the starter from the neutral safety switch. If I wasyou, iI would take a test light and test the yellow wire at that plug. With the plug unplugged, test light on the yellow wire, hit the key. It should light up. If not, your problem is before the neutral safety switch. If it does light, the problem is between the switch and starter.
 
I'm guessing you are sure but it's worth mentioning, are yousure uyou have the purple wire hooked to the correct post at the starter?
 
Well i tried to replace the nuetral safety switch and no one has it,so i jumoed it an still
Nothing i had my brother turn the key and no juice at the s terminal on the starter

So i am putting a push button on it temperarily until i can figure it out
 
well i jumped the starter and it fired up run great but the alternator isn't charging
on the wires from the alternator there is some fusible link wire. im going to change that out after lunch and see if it charges

my question is if thats it why would that stop it from having key start
 
Perhaps that's the main feed from the alt to the junction block? I don't know hiw/why it would continue to run after that tho.
 
Also, I think most parts stores call that something along the lines of a reverse light switch since that's also what runs the back up lights. That's what the other plug is for on the neutral safety switch.
 
aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggg!!!

well there is something major wrong with the wiring. got it to start filled the transmission with fluid.it works again.Turn the key off the motor stopped running but the electric fans stayed on, the radio stayed on so did the fuel pump. they are not connected to the same spot so im at a loss for were to look next.

nothing looks burnt,or fried together but even with the key off it still has power to everything but the dizzy 12 volt.

is it possible to plug the ignition module in wrong or backwards?
or the neutral safety switch?

any clues i do appreciate, i cant afford to replace the wiring harness.
 
The ignition switch is adjustable. It slides up and down on the column. Make sure it's not slid hard one way.
 
Has the lock cylinder ever been replaced?..sometimes the gears on the rack that activate the ignition switch via the metal rod jump a tooth or two,or got reassembled a bit "off" and you wont get enough "throw" on the metal rod to get the ignition switch all the way to the "crank" position...tilt wheels can do this when the tilt assembly gets loose or when the wheel is tilted to certain spots..
 
Well i tried moving it and still have ignition hot at the fuse block all the time.
Even with the ignition module out using a screw driver to work it
Where else can i look?
 
I dont know what i did,but put it back together and must have done something wrught
because it stoped having power all the time
 
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