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Three blown trannys and i need some help

h0wl0ngcanitbe said:
I have most of those tools minus the jack but its probably worth investing in if im keeping this thing, i think i can do most of what you just talked about the grinding part seems tricky but im sure ill figure somethin out.
Grinding is very easy, not grinding too much is the harder part. All you do is grind the weld off and try not to grind any metal off the perch, axle tube, or shock mount.

i have a question? did you just describe to me basically a complete axle swap, meaning im removing my current axles with the new ones and then im set?
Yes, I was telling you the tools you will need to complete an axle housing swap.

anything else i need to look into?
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You don't need to have a Dana 60 and 14BFF to daily drive a truck with 35"-37" tires. The 1/2 ton axle housings you own will require more maintenance when running that size tire than 3/4 or 1 ton axle housings. This is because the 3/4 and 1 ton housings have larger bearings and are made stronger to hold more load.

If you regear your 1/2 ton housings you probably won't be able to recover your money from the gear install, if you decide to upgrade later. If you regear 3/4 ton or 1 ton axle housings the chances are much better that you'll be able to get your money back if you decide to sell or part out the Blazer.

If you think you will be doing more offroading in the years to come with this Blazer than I would spend the money on 3/4 or 1 ton axle housings.
It all depends on your plans for the Blazer.

If you want to make it better than it is now get 3/4 or 1 ton housings. If not regear your current axle housings. But if you do this you may be waisting more money on parts that you swap out later.

 
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so can i keep my 10 bolt rear and front and just regear them to what i want? i really just need this thing to drive proper on the freeway so that im not blowin through trannys like thier popcorn cause thats what im doin!
 
ya man im tryin to avoid just tossin out all that money i poured into the drive train, if i can get away with just regearing my ten bolts then ill go that way, i havent been so worried about my axle failing since i dont go wheelin. i just need to save this transmission cause untill it dies or i receive a huge amount of money to play with im not lookin forward to replacing another tranny, im really hopin third times the charm! let me know if you think just simply regearing the ten bolts would be a wise choice or if im just kidding myself by tryin to save on money and money previously invested.
 
well in all honesty im almost sure that i have no plans to go wheelin in this thing, ive seen too many of these trucks roll to ever chance mine. i know it sounds pussy but i love havin that straight body and flawless look, its more for show and fun to ride around town in for me. im still a little torn i know what ya mean about the whole resale value thing but at this point for what i have put in too what its worth im not makin any kinda money back. i think im gonna hunt around for a local ck5 guy to just regear this thing for me, ive just dumped a huge amount of money into this thing recently on new bearings ball joints tie rods hubs spindles rotors and brakes and then some. if i did the 1 ton swap i would lose all that wouldnt i?
 
There is a guy on KrazyK5 doing re-gears for $250 for a 60 and $175 for a 14B. Thats better than any shop will offer.
http://www.crazyk5.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2791

KennyW's Dana 60
http://www.crazyk5.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2803

I will also have a set of 3/4 ton stuff for sale in the next week or so. 3/4 ton 10B and a 14B with a Detroit 4.11's[/quote]


Can you get in touch with this guy and let him know im interested in havin him do some work for me? or ask him to check out this thread?
 
h0wl0ngcanitbe said:
i really dont go wheeling i just like the look, more show then go ya know what i mean? i just know that i have to regear my rig to get that tranny to start workin right.
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If you rarely go wheeling you DONT need new axels yours are just fine..

Just regear them.
 
if you are light on the pedal you should be fine with the 10 bolts on the street and 37s.35s are really the max if you even light wheel it.its tough to decide exactly the rought to go. Once you start modifying things,you see other things that "need" fixed or replaced and ends up being a domino effect.if you dont run overdrive as was said,the tranny should last longer.it is a 1 to 1 ratio instad of .75 to one.it will help until you get the gearing straitened out.if you do need it rebuilt again,go for a beefier built one.then you know for sure it should last.this stuff isnt rocket science to do yourself.just takes time and a friend maybe from ck5 that can help you do something they may have done a million times.
 
I know what ya mean about the whole domino effect thing, ive owned this thing for 6 years and only in the last 6 months have i finally figured out all this. if i can get away with the regear im gonna go that route, i figure if i end up keeping this thing for life ill have the opportunity to do this whole thing over again proper. ive always wanted to do a complete resto frame up when i have more time, money, and not too mention another car.

one question when i do regear to 4:56 gears with 37"s should i still not use od? or will the rpms adjust itself with the new gears and i can use od? or should i never again use od and pretend its not even thier?
 
h0wl0ngcanitbe said:
I know what ya mean about the whole domino effect thing, ive owned this thing for 6 years and only in the last 6 months have i finally figured out all this. if i can get away with the regear im gonna go that route, i figure if i end up keeping this thing for life ill have the opportunity to do this whole thing over again proper. ive always wanted to do a complete resto frame up when i have more time, money, and not too mention another car.

one question when i do regear to 4:56 gears with 37"s should i still not use od? or will the rpms adjust itself with the new gears and i can use od? or should i never again use od and pretend its not even thier?
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you should be able to use overdrive again because you have brought the gearing back to where it would be with stock size tires.if i had the time and money i would frame up resto my rig too.but it seems like its hard enuf just to keep it runnin right.lol
 
$5500 isnt a bad price for a shop 2 do a 1 ton swap...ive got 36x14.50x15 parnelli jones and had stock(3.42) gears and had NO problems with my transmission...i DID have Lots of problems with axles and rear driveshaft...i did the axle swap @ a shop in pomona ca last year(bought truck n long beach) while i was working n riverside...with other things involved (rims, shocks, steering stabilizer, detoit n fron, rear disc conv, rear hitch, rear lift, n other misc. things), my final bill was $9784.20...it costs ALOT more when u pay someone to do it but when ur living n a motel and workin 90hrs a week, doin it urself is not an option...if ur not gonna whell it, then re-gear what u have...but if u take it offroad and tear it up(only takes a little too much throttle) then u'll wish u spent the money in the first place...i just purchased a blazen offroad winch tube bumper n 16,500lb superwinch...sum may say thats overkill...its only overkill when u need it & didnt get it to
start with...
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w/half ton axles
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still 1/2 ton stuff
below is w/1 ton swap
picture.php
 
Thanks for the input man and thanks for the picks! i think im gonna regear it with the ten bolt, if i keep it long enough someday ill have the time too swap the axles myself with the help of you guys of coarse!
question, what was the lift of your truck before the axle swap? i noticed your rear is sagging a bit im gonna load a pic of mine, let me know if you think my rear is sagging too! as always thanks for all the help!
picture.php

picture.php
 
Ya its a constant never ending string, but i think thats why we love these trucks! we are just the kinda guys who love pullin on that string! thanks for the OD tip i cant wait to regear this thing
 
If you are looking to save some money, check out ebay for used ring and pinion gearsets. I've bought a couple and haven't had any problems.

Many times they come with the pinion bearing installed. If you're lucky, you may not need to adjust the shims behind it.

I'm guessing that you haven't changed your speedo gears, and so it (and the odometer) on your truck are way off. You can find calculators on the Internet to determine what the correct drive and driven gear should be for your axle ratio and tire size. It's not hard and the parts are pretty cheap, too.

This would be a good project for you to do yourself.
 
had no rear lift br the swap only 3" body lift...those are 36x14.50x15" tires n they didnt rub the back @ all...not bad 4 a 3" bl...after the swap the rear end sagged TOO MUCH so we put 3" rear blocks to level it out...next step will b to ditch the blocks n put 4" shackle flip on it n c how it looks then...this never ends...i have over $15,000 invested n this n i only paid $2500 for the truck...still have lots more to do n spend...
 
Nuts i didnt realize that my odometer is off too? is it plus or minus? i knew that my speed was off but i always kept that in mind and offset it in my head while driving. got and tips on what i need to get started on replacing the speedo gears?
 
im in the exact same boat man! bought it for 3k now im 27k deep into general upkeep and upgrades, the main drag was the extra tranny i got to pay for before i knew all this great info from you guys!
 
how n tha world do u have 27k n it and its all stock??? :eek1: :crazy: like stated above, ive got 15k n its far from stock...at least tha drivetrain n even a 16,500lb winch n tube bumper i just paid over $1700 for...dude seems like you've been takin for a ride...i could've saved alot of money doin stuff my self but didnt have the time or facilities 2 do it...thats crazy...where have u gotten ur work done @??? remind me NEVER 2 go to that/those places...:doah:
 
ya i wish someone woulda told me that a long time ago! i go to a local off road shop in my town called Randys Off Road, and my shop has been juicein me like a freakin lemon! but thats the price i pay for havin a bunch of other peoples "professional's" hands on my rig. i just truly dont know what im doin.
 
Your odometer (like the speedometer) will read low.

Don't change the speedo gears until you get your tire size and axle ratios finalized.

There are two gears. A drive gear, and a driven gear. They're made out of plastic and GM color codes them based on the number of teeth. You can use different driven gears with the same drive gear, and if you're lucky, you won't have to change the drive gear. (It's not that bad a job if you do have to change it.)

But, wait until you get the other stuff figured out.
 
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