dubbyx
Registered Member
yeah... cool aren't they?!?
CK5
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Threw a rod last night... got me to thinking... swap!
- Thread starter BillyTungsten
- Start date
BillyTungsten
Registered Member
no doubt 
Listen ass bite, I was just trying to give my opinion, and your ass wants to start up with me with this remark
It d!cks like you that love to wait for other people to give an opinion just so you can find any way to jump on them. I remember a guy by the name of Tim that was just like that. The advice you give for pulling an engine would work great in a junkyard, but not with somebody that wants to do the job right.
And "NO" there is not a lot of room between a distributor and the firewall. Even with the engine hoist attached to the engine, when the transmission is removed and slid back, the engine will still fall back a little towards the firewall, and it will land on the distributor. Also, as for leaving the carburetor on, if somehow the hoist chain gets dragged across the carb with 300 pounds of engine attached to it, something on the carburetor is going to break. D!ckhead.
When Kid Jugghead..I mean "Jethro", quoted me, and then gave his opinon, he was taking personel aim at me; and when somebody takes a swing at me, I swing back. If the "kid" would have just posted his opion, and not brought me in to it, I would have had nothing to say about it.
Personal aim at you? 
My god man...Did you read the things you posted? Right after my first post in this thread you called me a "dummy shade tree mechanic", made a rude/insulting reference to my screename, AND said that I do "hack jobs". All of that was unprovoked you stupid ass. How does it get more personal than that? Just like the pot callin the kettle black.
If it's a junk yard only procedure, then why has it worked perfectly for me 4 times in the last month? How long has it been since you've yanked a sbc out of one of these trucks? Your profile says you're an Eletronics Tech.
I don't use an engine leveler, just a chain and a hoist. My distributor never once even touched the firewal, and my motor runs like a raped ape. My carb never touched the chain, and runs just fine. What kind of professional wrench turner hooks up his hoist in such a way that the carb could be damaged by the chain? And since when does a fully dressed small block weigh only 300lbs?
Don't open your mouth unless you know what your talkin about.
My god man...Did you read the things you posted? Right after my first post in this thread you called me a "dummy shade tree mechanic", made a rude/insulting reference to my screename, AND said that I do "hack jobs". All of that was unprovoked you stupid ass. How does it get more personal than that? Just like the pot callin the kettle black. If it's a junk yard only procedure, then why has it worked perfectly for me 4 times in the last month? How long has it been since you've yanked a sbc out of one of these trucks? Your profile says you're an Eletronics Tech.
I don't use an engine leveler, just a chain and a hoist. My distributor never once even touched the firewal, and my motor runs like a raped ape. My carb never touched the chain, and runs just fine. What kind of professional wrench turner hooks up his hoist in such a way that the carb could be damaged by the chain? And since when does a fully dressed small block weigh only 300lbs? Don't open your mouth unless you know what your talkin about.
By the way BillyTungsten, I apologize for your thread being turned into this crap. I'm done. I've made my point as well as I want it made. Good luck with your swap brother. 
78Suburban
1/2 ton status
I'm getting ready to do a swap over Christmas break.... this thread has been kinda encouraging...
By the way, 1-ton, If you saw Jethro's Diff Covers, you would realize that he is far from a hack! Now you can flame me 
but I'm not gonna argue with you
By the way, 1-ton, If you saw Jethro's Diff Covers, you would realize that he is far from a hack!
Now you can flame me but I'm not gonna argue with you 
ER--Um..Ahh..
Someone might tell this guy to check and see if his flexplate is cracked,or if its REALLY a rod thats knocking,BEFORE he pulls the motor!..I bought 2 trucks in years past with "blown motors",that needed only a flexplate,and one had a bad fuel pump,and it sounded much like a spun rod bearing,or the timing chain was slapping the cover..
If the 305 is DOA,then I'd say get the hoist,wrenches and beer,and lets do it!..The last motor I pulled was my 74 K20's 400SB just before I junked it..since the nose was rotted at the front frame mounts ,I decided to unbolt the other 4 bolts and the wiring harness,and take the nose right off!..it was the easiest one I ever pulled,though it would add a bit more labor to re-install the nose later,and trying not to damage the fenders in the process--its awkward,but not all that heavy--
--I took mine off alone,and used the engine hoist to flop it back on good enough for the ride to the scrapyard..I saved a lot of backache by having the nose off,and not having to bend over all day..
Doing your C10 now,will give you a lot of experience,and doing the next swap in your K5 will be MUCH easier,after having done one--you'll know what NOT to do,and probably know a few "short cuts" by then!..some things the "book" says to remove don't HAVE to come off!..
I try to "fully dress" the motor before I put it in--altenator,belts,exhaust manifolds,etc--after you do a few you can pretty much take out the 6 bellhousing bolts and three torque converter bolts,the exhaust pipes,hoses and wires,the P/S pump,and yank the motor out without taking too many other things off..and yeah,watch that hoist chain--it CAN snag on things and FUBAR them,even if your experienced..it happens!.
--those "tilters" for the hoist are a good thing to have ,it helps a lot in aligning the motor..I just leave the distributor in the motor,but take the cap off and lay it aside until the motor is bolted in..good luck,and I hope the motor doesn't have a bad rod!..then you wont have to work so hard and long..
Someone might tell this guy to check and see if his flexplate is cracked,or if its REALLY a rod thats knocking,BEFORE he pulls the motor!..I bought 2 trucks in years past with "blown motors",that needed only a flexplate,and one had a bad fuel pump,and it sounded much like a spun rod bearing,or the timing chain was slapping the cover..
If the 305 is DOA,then I'd say get the hoist,wrenches and beer,and lets do it!..The last motor I pulled was my 74 K20's 400SB just before I junked it..since the nose was rotted at the front frame mounts ,I decided to unbolt the other 4 bolts and the wiring harness,and take the nose right off!..it was the easiest one I ever pulled,though it would add a bit more labor to re-install the nose later,and trying not to damage the fenders in the process--its awkward,but not all that heavy--
--I took mine off alone,and used the engine hoist to flop it back on good enough for the ride to the scrapyard..I saved a lot of backache by having the nose off,and not having to bend over all day..
Doing your C10 now,will give you a lot of experience,and doing the next swap in your K5 will be MUCH easier,after having done one--you'll know what NOT to do,and probably know a few "short cuts" by then!..some things the "book" says to remove don't HAVE to come off!..
I try to "fully dress" the motor before I put it in--altenator,belts,exhaust manifolds,etc--after you do a few you can pretty much take out the 6 bellhousing bolts and three torque converter bolts,the exhaust pipes,hoses and wires,the P/S pump,and yank the motor out without taking too many other things off..and yeah,watch that hoist chain--it CAN snag on things and FUBAR them,even if your experienced..it happens!.
--those "tilters" for the hoist are a good thing to have ,it helps a lot in aligning the motor..I just leave the distributor in the motor,but take the cap off and lay it aside until the motor is bolted in..good luck,and I hope the motor doesn't have a bad rod!..then you wont have to work so hard and long..
87BrnRsd
1/2 ton status
Um I believe you were the first to take personal aim at him by calling him a "shadetree mechanic". He only said that it could be done much faster than what you said. I know thats true, because I have done it more than once, and it can definitely be done in 8 or less hours by any competent (if even experienced) person. And it can definitely be done perfectly with the carb and distributor on. Maybe thats why it takes you so long. You take the distributor off, then have to put it on again when putting the engine back in, and it takes you 5 hours to re-set the timing.1-ton said:
Just becuase someone can do something faster than you, doesnt make them a "shade tree mechanic". Im not calling you shad tree either. Taking your time is good. But if you have done it several times (which his bud says he has), then it can definitely be done in a day, and it will be done right.
-Harrison
guido666
1/2 ton status
Hey guys, remember he started this thread to ask a question. Don't ruin it for him. If you guys want to continue the debate, go start a new thread about pulling distributors. We all hate when our thread about a single question turns into some big gearhead debate about something only marginally related, so don't do it to others ok?
That being said, I put a 454 in my '79 as I mentioned. I have roller rockers and the tall high-clearance CompCams synthetic valve covers. I did not pull the distibutor, but the driver's side valve cover got nicked by the vacuum booster. They were composite, so I just sealed the hole with epoxy. A steel cover might just have suffered a dent.
That being said, I put a 454 in my '79 as I mentioned. I have roller rockers and the tall high-clearance CompCams synthetic valve covers. I did not pull the distibutor, but the driver's side valve cover got nicked by the vacuum booster. They were composite, so I just sealed the hole with epoxy. A steel cover might just have suffered a dent.
My bad. I did not know this was meant to be a compliment to my abilities to turn a wrench.
Can Can
Pusher Man
12 hours have passed since the orginal disagreement. For some reason,you feel the need to come back, get the last word, and try to stir the pot.........
Very sad indeed. It speaks volumes for your character, and removes some of the doubt about who's to blame for the heated exchange.
Very sad indeed. It speaks volumes for your character, and removes some of the doubt about who's to blame for the heated exchange.
BillyTungsten
Registered Member
another option in the mix...
Allright, guys... you have been very helpful, despite the ongoing argument on the side.
Went to a work-sponsored hunt yesterday (I knocked down 6 pheasants and 8 chuckars - mmm, tasty!) and one of my co-workers, hearing about my situation, says; "I've got the motor out of my corvette sitting on the engine stand in my garage. you can have it for $250"
Its out of a 1976 corvette. He claims less than 100,000 miles on it. it is a carburated 350, he swapped when he got a stronger motor for the 'vette. Says it ran when he took it out (3 years ago) and it should run now. says it a 180-horse motor.
I was having fun looking at crate engines for the K5, but the $3-4k price tag was gonna hurt. What do I do? Is the engine likely to serve the C10 well? I believe it is a matter of luck. Could run for another 100,000 or could take a crap a month after the install.
I need to make a decision (although I thought I already had ;-)
Oy.
Allright, guys... you have been very helpful, despite the ongoing argument on the side.
Went to a work-sponsored hunt yesterday (I knocked down 6 pheasants and 8 chuckars - mmm, tasty!) and one of my co-workers, hearing about my situation, says; "I've got the motor out of my corvette sitting on the engine stand in my garage. you can have it for $250"
Its out of a 1976 corvette. He claims less than 100,000 miles on it. it is a carburated 350, he swapped when he got a stronger motor for the 'vette. Says it ran when he took it out (3 years ago) and it should run now. says it a 180-horse motor.
I was having fun looking at crate engines for the K5, but the $3-4k price tag was gonna hurt. What do I do? Is the engine likely to serve the C10 well? I believe it is a matter of luck. Could run for another 100,000 or could take a crap a month after the install.
I need to make a decision (although I thought I already had ;-)
Oy.
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
I hate 305's so IMO any 350 is better than a 305...... there are ways to check the motor out before you buy/install it.... pressure test on the cylinders, pull the pan if you are worried about the bearings or just do a quick rebuild on it with a basic kit
I'm sure there are people here wo can offer more specific advice on how to check out a motor to see if its worth putting in. Not to mention if you trust your buddies judgement ask him to go with you to look at the vette motor
I'm sure there are people here wo can offer more specific advice on how to check out a motor to see if its worth putting in. Not to mention if you trust your buddies judgement ask him to go with you to look at the vette motor
If you can buy a known running engine and put it into the broke trucks spot then I would say do it. You are going to save pulling the motor from your Blazer and it keeps your Blazer running and once it turns not running all good intentions can turn down hill, like my plans have for two years 
. I would probally take his word on it and put in the vette motor then have a backup plan to build a new for the Blazer, useing the old from the truck or put money away for the crate, cause its always nice to have a spare motor hanging around.
. I would probally take his word on it and put in the vette motor then have a backup plan to build a new for the Blazer, useing the old from the truck or put money away for the crate, cause its always nice to have a spare motor hanging around.
mouse
1/2 ton status
$250 is a good price for a good 350. Add about $500 to totally rebuild the lower half, another $350 for the heads. There are machine shops that will assemble it for you if you don't want to. You will be in for less than a crate engine (barely if they assemble), but you get it built to your specs...
BillyTungsten
Registered Member
Going for it! Day one...
Josh and I started Tuesday, after work. Got going around 5:00 pm, worked until about 10:00.
We pulled the motor on the K5, sort of broke my heart seeing it come out, it runs real strong. At least it's new home will be my DD!
Josh (my lifeline in this exercise) is teaching all the way, and it is great. I actually know what it is like to have 10 degrees of throw on a wrench that really wants 15 degrees, turning a bolt that an angry yeti on meth would have a hard time turning, and getting it off! Oy.
End of day one: Engine out and on the stand. Not as fast as many of you guys, but we are not rushing.
End of day two (after work, Wednesday): Engine out of C10 and on an old tire... BTW, what do I do w/ this? I'll pull the starter (fairly new) and use the edelbrock carb on the re-install, but do I junk it? does it have any real value as a core?
Josh and I started Tuesday, after work. Got going around 5:00 pm, worked until about 10:00.
We pulled the motor on the K5, sort of broke my heart seeing it come out, it runs real strong. At least it's new home will be my DD!
Josh (my lifeline in this exercise) is teaching all the way, and it is great. I actually know what it is like to have 10 degrees of throw on a wrench that really wants 15 degrees, turning a bolt that an angry yeti on meth would have a hard time turning, and getting it off! Oy.
End of day one: Engine out and on the stand. Not as fast as many of you guys, but we are not rushing.
End of day two (after work, Wednesday): Engine out of C10 and on an old tire... BTW, what do I do w/ this? I'll pull the starter (fairly new) and use the edelbrock carb on the re-install, but do I junk it? does it have any real value as a core?
