Tips for building your own exhaust?

[K85 Octane]

Shorty headers like Gibson if you plan to run the exhaust like I did, in front of the oil pan.
I like using factory flanges because they are THICK steel that lasts forever. I've had issues with regular tubing. Obviously if you run V-bands or whatever, that would be best.

 

[78K30]

I think that @78K30 put a set on his cheap auction truck.

I’m running cheap stainless headers off amazon that work really well but they’re also made for a GMT400 truck so not sure how they’d fit in a 73-87. I’ve used aluminized on all of my exhaust builds with a Hobart 190 running .30” wire with 75/25 and it works really well. I’m usually all for manifolds due to plug clearance but a good set of thick flanged headers are hard to beat.

 

[brans87]

Good info guys keep it coming!

Yes I have a miller 215 and 75/25 gas.

Recommendations on which magnaflow muffler to run? Like pretty quite for wife and kids.

So far going with 2.5 and 3 inch piping the Y from magnaflow.

Still looking at clamps would like to do this in least break where can remove after Y at least to make easier to work on if need be in future.

 

[brans87]

Good info guys keep it coming!

Yes I have a miller 215 and 75/25 gas.

Recommendations on which magnaflow muffler to run? Like pretty quite for wife and kids.

So far going with 2.5 and 3 inch piping the Y from magnaflow.

Still looking at clamps would like to do this in least break where can remove after Y at least to make easier to work on if need be in future.

 

[sweetk30]

I’m running cheap stainless headers off amazon that work really well but they’re also made for a GMT400 truck so not sure how they’d fit in a 73-87. I’ve used aluminized on all of my exhaust builds with a Hobart 190 running .30” wire with 75/25 and it works really well. I’m usually all for manifolds due to plug clearance but a good set of thick flanged headers are hard to beat.

I’m running cheap stainless headers off amazon that work really well but they’re also made for a GMT400 truck so not sure how they’d fit in a 73-87. I’ve used aluminized on all of my exhaust builds with a Hobart 190 running .30” wire with 75/25 and it works really well. I’m usually all for manifolds due to plug clearance but a good set of thick flanged headers are hard to beat.

i have a set of gmt400 edelbrock tes headers brand new . i put them in a k30 frame our style . i plugged off the side o2 port and cut the head of the plug off and still had to do a notch in the frame rail .

 

[K85 Octane]

Must have been a K30 thing. I'm running those same headers on my junk and they clear easy.
Too bad they don't make them anymore last I checked

At least I think they were. I know they weren't exactly for my truck, I think, it's been a while,

 

[onetonbb74]

I have the hedman 69830 elite hedders on my stock tbi, bought them in 05, still running them. I did have to weld the flange further back on the hedder so the ball and socket seals good. Install was a breeze, even got them in and out with the starter installed...

 

[campfire]

Can I tack SS Y pipe to mandel bends together and then have a buddy tig it all up?

Yes. You can also MIG it if you prefer.

 

[campfire]

My tip? Cutting & welding is a lot easier on new pipe vs repairing old rusty pipe. So go ahead and replace the whole exhaust system while you're at it. Stainless is nice, and 304 lasts a long time. But plenty of cheapskates are running aluminized pipe. I took the middle road and bought cheaper 409 stainless. When I priced out mine, a 409 system costs $20 more than an aluminized one. Easy choice, for me. Salt resistance probably isn't as important in your location.

 

[sweetk30]

you live out of the rust belt . i say skip the ss stuff .

 

[K85 Octane]

My aluminized pipe looks better than my SS Flowmasters LOL

 

[Blue85]

Stainless pipe is harder to work with. You're probably getting it all pre-bent, but if you want to expand some ends to make slip joints a standard hand-type tubing expander can't do it. You'll need a hydraulic type. If you read about stainless welding they talk about purging the pipe with inert gas, etc, but for exhaust I don't think any of that matters. Tri-shield gas is recommended, but I've done it with C20 and had no issues (not worth it to buy into the extra tank for a few exhaust joints here and there).

 

[brans87]

All new parts will be used.