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Tire carrier/ bumper done ☑️

Gentleman Jimmy

1/2 ton status
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Idaho
I’m just about done building my rear bumper and am getting ready to start the tire carrier (will be holding roughly a 33x11.5, nothing bigger). Looking for some opinions on tubing size for the carrier. Keep in mind this is not heavy off road used rig just jeep roads etc.
I have some 3x3 square tubing 3/16” wall laying around, and also some 2x3 1/8” wall
I’m leaning towards the square tubing but wanted to hear from others and not opposed to buying some new steel just trying to run what I have laying around if possible. I know there’s always a debate about the swing out or fold down setup. Not looking for advice there, swing out is what I’m going with.
Thanks

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I have a Kennesaw mountain rear bumper / tire carrier. Look them up on Google for pics.

Its well made but had to add a latch to keep swing out part from rattling around, they just used spring loaded pin and will move jn the hole

They used square tubing
 
Ok cool I will check out their design thank you. I’ve got a 1k latch around here I’m planning to use.. as it seems poor latching is typically the demise of the hinge pin
 
2 x 2 x 0.125 wall square tube on mine. Gusseted with 1/4" plate where needed. Holding a 37" on a H1 rim... So a lot heavier than yours will be. Holds up fine so far. If/when it breaks I'll rebuild it better.
 
2 x 2 x 0.125 wall square tube on mine. Gusseted with 1/4" plate where needed. Holding a 37" on a H1 rim... So a lot heavier than yours will be. Holds up fine so far. If/when it breaks I'll rebuild it better.
That’s good to know it’s holding up to that kind of weight. I found some 2x2 out by my shop last night and am probably going to run with it.
Guys, if it’s convenient feel free to post up some pics of your setup including how your latching it on the other end. I have about a 1/2” between my gate and the bumper when it’s down, so I’m trying to brainstorm some ideas for my latch. I plan on making my swing arm pretty short, just on the passenger side and possibly latching it in the license plate area so there’s nothing mounted or sticking up on top of the bumper.
 
Dont really have a good photo of the latch. And looking back at these photos from 5 years ago, I seem to remember that the vertical and horizontal members are probably 3/16" wall tube, only the angled brace is 1/8" wall. I added a large 1/4" plate gusset between the wheel mount plate and the vertical member too.


Also I borrowed ideas from these threads heavily:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/project-p-dub-1986-k5-blazer-modifications-and-upgrades.317811/ around post #18
and
and
Lots of dead picture links... might be able to chase some down.


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Dont really have a good photo of the latch. And looking back at these photos from 5 years ago, I seem to remember that the vertical and horizontal members are probably 3/16" wall tube, only the angled brace is 1/8" wall. I added a large 1/4" plate gusset between the wheel mount plate and the vertical member too.


Also I borrowed ideas from these threads heavily:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/project-p-dub-1986-k5-blazer-modifications-and-upgrades.317811/ around post #18
and
and
Lots of dead picture links... might be able to chase some down.


View attachment 372804View attachment 372803
Thanks for the pics and the links! I like your setup. I was able to get the hinge pin mocked up today and make some box bracing so hopefully this week I will get er done.
 
That's a nice looking rear bumper...I like the cutouts for the exhaust....gives it a clean, professional look. And a nice, wide top portion that you can actually stand on, nothing sticking out or down to catch on things. Plus it look Prius-proof. Your shop helpers seem to be top-notch also! On the photos of the other setup, it would seem a second piece from the latch side to the area where the tire bolts on would make it that much stronger. So there would be two triangles off the bottom swing out portion with the hinge and latch. I'm getting to the spare tire on mine and am starting to try to figure out what I can do. The weight of a 37" tire and rim as I bounce around on the rocks is concerning to me, I've not seen anything I think I would trust yet. But sleeping with the tire in the back or lifting it up and down every time I set up camp are also not good options. I can barely pick that tire up high enough to get it in the bed! I'll be watching to see how yours works out...but I do like that bumper design!
 
Thanks! you definitely picked up on the key points I was going for when designing it. In addition to the exhaust, I wanted it to also resemble the shape of the Corvette C6 emblem to hint at whats under the hood.
I agree, two triangles are stronger than one for bracing purposes although I plan on only using one for my design. The 3/16” wall tubing will be plenty strong and I don’t plan on adding any jerry can or jack holders etc... I’m thinking the shorter the swing arm and closer the weight is to the hinge pin will reduce the stress on the hinge. I will take some more pics as I go.
 
Grabbed a couple quick photos of my latch. Rubber pad underneath is pretty good at isolating any vibration so the latch is always under tension. Right now, it has a small weld bead (probably ~1/8" tall) at the front and rear of the landing pad, makes a small cradle for the arm to drop into before tensioning the latch. This was the first attempt to stop it from bouncing around front to rear and ending up like you can see in the first photo. Sometime soonish I will be grinding those beads off and placing some 1/4" rod to replace the beads. Also recommend that you build with the weight of the tire in mind. IE: with no tire, it should be just ever so slightly angled up (like 1/4-3/8" over 4 feet) at the latch. So that with the tire on there, when it does sag, you wont be lifting the entire weight of the tire/arm assembly to get it up to the latch position.

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Thanks for the pics and the tips! I was able make a little headway today but the latch is giving me some trouble... I’ve tried a couple different configurations but it looks like my anchor point will need to be at 90 degrees directly under the latch like yours in the pic. It doesn’t have a positive latch feeling when there’s any kind of angle on it. Almost seems like there needs to be a latch on the handle too. Will have to stew it over tonight.

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Looks like I got the base model latch. Need to get one of these I suppose. I’m not sure I trust a latch that doesn’t actually latch lol.

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I used one of those cam over levers, as well as a spring loaded T-handle. In addition to using 10-bolt stubs and locking hubs.
 
Nice. I was thinking about a T handle for locking it in the open position. Those locking style cam levers were like $80 so I just made a little tab to line up with with the holes that were in the handle and stuck a lynch pin in it for now. A pin with an R clip will be better though.

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Now that you mentioned it, I totally see the Corvette influence...very tricky. I have a question for you metal guys: Would it be any different if one was to put the hinge directly over the frame rail on one side and the latch over the rail on the other side? Any stronger that way? I don't think it's really the strength that matters here, it's trying to keep it from moving at all, right? The movement will cause the metal to become more brittle and eventually fail, correct? Which is why you're so worried about the latch being tight, to keep the whole assembly from moving as you're bouncing down the trail? I'm just trying to understand...maybe if I get it, I'll be able to put my spare outside the truck and not worry about it tearing off my bumper or falling off on the freeway and killing some housewife in her Prius. I watch guys with it mounted like that and it always looks like it's going to fall off (but I've never seen it happen) when they're in the rocks. Plus, I'm not sure I can lift a 37" tire and a rim with enough control to get it back on the carrier and bolted up without some help. Maybe there is a reason I have that hi-lift jack on board, even though I don't use it....
 
Yes the idea is to keep the hinge pin from twisting at the mounting point. Even if the hinge on a swing out was over the frame rail you’d still need to box it in or tie it to the frame rail (which would most likely block the bolt holes for the bumper) to keep it from twisting. Plus you’d never be able to open your tailgate.

If I was building a trail rig and ran 37’s I would definitely have built a swing down setup as those tire/wheel combos are much heavier. Then with that setup like you suggested, you could use two pivot points off the rear of the frame rails to mount some hinges that were tied into the frame rails/bumper mounts.

Below are a couple pics of how I boxed and braced mine. I’m sure there’s lots of ways to do it bit it’s what made sense to me and seems very solid. I haven’t finished my swing out so no tire weight yet but I can hang on it with no problem, Time will tell. I also added a little HDPE wear pad (aka cutting board) on the bottom of the latch to avoid any metal to metal contact.

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OK, makes sense...I'm just starting to think about what I'm going to do for mine...I think a big part of it for me is to think with my mind and not just look at something and think it will fail. I see these tire carriers all the time, and they work fine. Even on jeeps. With even bigger, heavier tires. I just need to pay attention and build it correctly and I'll be fine. Thanks for the input. I'm glad to see someone else using the cutting board trick. My entire center skid plate is covered in it...cheap and nearly indestructible.
 

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