TnA's 86 Jimmy Shop Build / Product Development Thread - (Trailing Arms?!?!)

[CFMi]

How about straight back with round tube to a SECOND fabricated roll bar just like the front. Possibly with just a little more angle at the rear roll bar.

Oh god, I have to build another one of these things??!!?! Lol. That's an interesting idea, it might actually look pretty neat, I'll give it some thought.

Was also thinking, you could bolt some angle iron to the stock top attachment points, which would then give you a flange that could be bolted onto the interior side of the roll bar.

The problem with the attachment to the cab in this case is that the top outer shell plate comes forward to cover up all those bolt holes so there isn't any access. The rest of the roll bar fits up right against the factory rubber seal, so those cab bolts will have to go directly through the roll bar all the way to the rear of it, with welded in tubes or something.

My thought was that I could get a soft top made that would fit around the lip that faces forward (the part that covers bolt access) and then it would be completely sealed against the elements. Everyone's suggestion about doing a half cab though sounds pretty awesome, especially if I decide to remove the rear seat. If that becomes the case, then that lip that covers bolt access then becomes just a cover that could have access holes cut into it. Gosh, I just don't know where to go from here. Need more thinking time.

 

[cyclic]

I wish it was easier to do pics and diagrams............................... let me try to explain better.

Bolt angle iron to the body with horizontal bolts, which leaves a horizontal flange pointing to the rear. Then bolt through the bar to the horizontal flanges vertically (at least to the top part, the sides would just be turned so the flange was vertical with horizontal bolts).

Which leave a couple exposed fasteners on the flat forward flange of your bar, if you use button heads it will look nice.

ETA: I see where my description went wrong................. the angle iron would bolt through the outside of the new bar. So, flat to the blazer body and the flange it makes gets bolts to the outside of the new bar. You could even use solid square aluminum to make the connection instead of angle iron.

 

[CFMi]

I wish it was easier to do pics and diagrams............................... let me try to explain better.

Bolt angle iron to the body with horizontal bolts, which leaves a horizontal flange pointing to the rear. Then bolt through the bar to the horizontal flanges vertically (at least to the top part, the sides would just be turned so the flange was vertical with horizontal bolts).

Which leave a couple exposed fasteners on the flat forward flange of your bar, if you use button heads it will look nice.

Ok, I see what you're saying, flat head allen bolts would look just fine doing it that way. That's certainly a good option, it might be difficult getting everything lined up but it's not like you'd be taking this huge thing in and out very frequently. I was thinking only in the mindset of putting the bolts so that they would pull the bar into the seal, but using some other method to pull the bar tight and then installing bolts in the fashion your suggested work work also.

 

[CFMi]

Well, I think I've finally decided to keep the rear seat. This is going to be used as a street vehicle as well as a wheeler, so the rear seat is something that needs to be there for the street, in my mind. That sucks though, since I really like the more streamlined baja look of the cage. I've even had my mind wandering, thinking about how I could make a hinged portion of the cage that could be "kicked up" and secured when passengers were present, and then moved back down when no passengers were there. But that is just way more work than it's worth just for a "look". I think.

So after searching the 'net for hours and hours when I should have been sleeping, I have settled on one pic in particular that I'm going to try to come close to. I think it represents the best compromise between passenger head room and that "swept back" look I really want. Unfortunately, I can't find any other pics of this rig specifically, and I'm afraid that I like it only because of the angle of the pic. But I'll go forward and try my best to get the look I want. Should be picking up some 1.75" OD DOM tomorrow and hopefully getting the tube bender out!

The cage design I like as a compromise (at least the part that would be behind the current fabb'd roll bar):

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Well, I think I've finally decided to keep the rear seat. This is going to be used as a street vehicle as well as a wheeler, so the rear seat is something that needs to be there for the street, in my mind. That sucks though, since I really like the more streamlined baja look of the cage. I've even had my mind wandering, thinking about how I could make a hinged portion of the cage that could be "kicked up" and secured when passengers were present, and then moved back down when no passengers were there. But that is just way more work than it's worth just for a "look". I think.

So after searching the 'net for hours and hours when I should have been sleeping, I have settled on one pic in particular that I'm going to try to come close to. I think it represents the best compromise between passenger head room and that "swept back" look I really want. Unfortunately, I can't find any other pics of this rig specifically, and I'm afraid that I like it only because of the angle of the pic. But I'll go forward and try my best to get the look I want. Should be picking up some 1.75" OD DOM tomorrow and hopefully getting the tube bender out!

The cage design I like as a compromise (at least the part that would be behind the current fabb'd roll bar):

Thats an excellent cage. I like the ones where people have the spare mounted on the diagonal rear section. maybe a swing down or out sort of thing for access.

Speaking of cool stuff ive been meaning to call you with some questions about your winch cradles...

 

[CFMi]

Thats an excellent cage. I like the ones where people have the spare mounted on the diagonal rear section. maybe a swing down or out sort of thing for access.

Speaking of cool stuff ive been meaning to call you with some questions about your winch cradles...

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking too with the spare. I was thinking an underside mounted spare with a swing down so that it was on the top side once swung down. I also am toying with the idea of mounting the spare vertically, kinda like the factory mount, but on the driver's side so that it isn't in the way of the rearview mirror. I spent the time to "Y" the tubes in the rollbar so that I had unobstructed vision through the mirror, seems kinda silly to then put a big tire in the way, lol. But I like that look much better, so who knows.

If you want to get in touch with me, PM me here or email me at [email protected]. If things get too technical for email, I'll give you my personal cell but I don't like to give it out unless absolutely necessary. I hope you understand. Thanks man!

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking too with the spare. I was thinking an underside mounted spare with a swing down so that it was on the top side once swung down. I also am toying with the idea of mounting the spare vertically, kinda like the factory mount, but on the driver's side so that it isn't in the way of the rearview mirror. I spent the time to "Y" the tubes in the rollbar so that I had unobstructed vision through the mirror, seems kinda silly to then put a big tire in the way, lol. But I like that look much better, so who knows.

If you want to get in touch with me, PM me here or email me at [email protected]. If things get too technical for email, I'll give you my personal cell but I don't like to give it out unless absolutely necessary. I hope you understand. Thanks man!

Yeah thats a good idea. Im with you on the view with the tire in the way. I suppose it depends on the size of the spare. I dont mind the tire carrier setup but no doubt the roll cage thing looks cooler.

Totally understand. Ill send you a pm shortly!

 

[CFMi]

Yeah, I'm beat! 'Nother long day

 

[mrk5]

Nice!

 

[Heavyleft]

When are these going to be for sale? Curious on price too. And Im interested in just the initial piece, sans tubes.

 

[Deuling]

Holy crap you work fast! Awesome!

 

[CFMi]

When are these going to be for sale? Curious on price too. And Im interested in just the initial piece, sans tubes.

I have been giving the pricing thing some thought over the last few days, and with the amount of time and materials that goes into the initial formed roll bar, there just isn't any way to make the price super attractive. In all reality, to cover my costs and make anything on it, I should be selling these for around $1,200 or more. I would think that is out of most people's price range for something like this, since a tube bar is way less than that. I think it'd be awesome to get some of these out there though, so I've been trying to figure out what to do to get the price down. Offering it as a kit wouldn't work easily, since I had to use a slip roll to form the basic shape of the inner and outer shell pieces, which isn't a tool that most fabricators have at home. So the only thing I could really do would be to offer it just tack welded together, and let the customer finish weld and grind it smooth themselves. Then the only thing they would have to be really careful about would be to not warp it during welding. Even in "tacked" form, I think I might price myself out of the market though. So I'm thinking that at the moment, I'll take a hit on price just to see if I get any interest because I personally think this is cool and would love to see some out there
So for the moment, I'm thinking I'd take a few orders at $995 fully welded, and $625 just tacked together. This thing is big though, so shipping is going to suck no matter what we do. It will have to go LTL truck freight.
If someone really wanted to try assembling this crazy contraption at home, maybe with some heat or something, I would discuss selling a flat plate WIY kit, and that would save on shipping too, but I won't candy coat it - it's a bitch to assemble, lol.

- Darren

 

[CFMi]

Holy crap you work fast! Awesome!

Lol, I don't have a choice but to work fast - I only get a day here and there to work on it, and have soooo much I want to do it! Luckily I've done enough of this stuff over the years that I'm fairly quick and pretty damn accurate with it when I do get time. Of course I still have my issues, lol. Even with all my carefulness, I warped the tubes enough that I'm going to have to tweak them pretty Damn hard in order to get them welded to the rear foot plates. The weird thing about this one is that one side pulled closer to the cab, and the other side pushed away from the cab. Both sides were done evenly and in the same order too. Go figure.

 

[riflerk20]

I like the braces for the bedsides. How much for a pair of those?

 

[RivMan]

I like the braces for the bedsides. How much for a pair of those?

x2, those are awesome pieces! Any chance of building something like that for the front of the bedside behind the door as well? They look like a great way to brace up the body for my full convertible swap.

-Rob

 

[CFMi]

I like the braces for the bedsides. How much for a pair of those?

x2, those are awesome pieces! Any chance of building something like that for the front of the bedside behind the door as well? They look like a great way to brace up the body for my full convertible swap.

-Rob

Yeah, thanks! I could always reproduce those... they aren't anything really special though, just a piece of angle iron with a bolt tab welded to them that goes through the bed material. They don't sandwich the actual bed floor, just sit on it for the cage foot to mount to. The bed floor there is super thin (even if it isn't rusted, lol) so not really any structure there. The lower tab with the two bolts into the bed "frame" is really where the little bit of strength comes from. I'll try to figure out a price for them and post it up. Would you guys like the flat plate and bolt-on piece for the roll cage foot? Or just the angle iron with the lower tab?

I'll look at the front behind the door the next time I'm at the shop - not exactly sure when I'll get back there but within a couple days I think.

 

[riflerk20]

I'm thinking the piece with the foot would give a little more support

 

[CFMi]

'nother day wrapping things up on the Jimmy.

Lockable spare tire mount, temporary though as I'm not sure it'll stay here.

High Lift Jack mount with lock also.

Upper cage tubes

Lower center cage foot, bent around trans tunnel

And then... ...I figured I needed a way to store tools but didn't like using the plastic totes I had been using. So, I made a locking low profile tool box, too keep the weight down low. I should be able to still strap a cooler on top of it too...

I also replaced my trans mount with a polyurethane unit, and then had to space down my crossmember since the new mount was almost 1/2" thicker! I didn't realize just how badly worn my old mount was!! I also pulled my diff cover since it had a leak going on, cleaned everything and gasketed it all back up, only to still have a leak. Looked real close and found a crack in the cover itself, so I welded it up with it on the truck, fingers crossed that it works! So far so good. Unfortunately, with the cover off, I found that the spider gears have some severe wear on them and are a bit loose. So a 14 bolt will need to be had sooner than later I guess.

 

[63chevyll]

Bitchen tool box

 

[truck-oholic]

Wow, fabbing your own steel tool box. That's dedication right there. What thickness is the sheet and angle and how much does that thing weigh?