CK5
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To run a Carb or not?

I had to roll my truck half out of the garage to pull the engine, rolled it back in once it was set in the frame

My driveway doesn’t have a forgiving incline. I’d have to use car and a tire to push it back in
 
Taking the front wheels off and sitting the truck down on jack stands at the lowest setting or blocks of wood at the rotors will bring the nose down a solid 12-14".
 
Computers, electrical, just thinking about it gives me enough anxiety to keep the carb. Hahahahahaha

Felt the same way when I opened the box with my TPI in it.

You become familiar with it while dealing with the install, just like anything else, mess with it enough, it starts to make sense.
 
Taking the front wheels off and sitting the truck down on jack stands at the lowest setting or blocks of wood at the rotors will bring the nose down a solid 12-14".

Funny you wrote that. I was thinking of that yesterday evening as I was tinkering in the garage. “What if I back the truck in and pull the wheels off” ....
Anyway, thanks.
 
Quick video of it running... doesn’t really reveal too much audio may be worse from compressions..
Said oil pressure was good...

I assume the engine will need to be torn apart to check the internals and such?

 
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Has oil pressure

I thought you were waiting?
 
Has oil pressure

I thought you were waiting?

He says yes on oil pressure. Engine is good according to seller. But I assume it will need to be gone through? Check internals before installing it, it spins so? Hahah

I’m not exactly in a huge rush, the small block is fine but if I can find a good engine I may as well get it..I just don’t want to buy a dud.

Check out this 2002 6.0 lq4 Ls engine for $1,500 on OfferUp.
https://offerup.co/OMDX6EzNG5
 
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If it has good oil pressure and doesn't smoke all I'd do is a compression test. Change oil & fluids of course. Run it till it stops.
 
before swapping in a LS i would do a pan gasket / oil pump pickup tube o-ring ( comon fail eat's motor ) and rear main seal and end plate . these 3 things for oil leak points will save you later on down the road .
 
I mean the edlebrock broflo is cheaper.
And probably a bit easier or more convenient for me to do in the garage.
ProFlo
New Fuel system?
Is about it...

LS will be more money over all...
Beside it seems nobody needs work in Arizona as none of these shop respond to inquiries about LS swaps...
 
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Aren't those motors also know to break the back exhaust manifold stud? I thought it was a good idea to replace them while the motor is out.
 
I mean the edlebrock broflo is cheaper.
And probably a bit easier or more convenient for me to do in the garage.
ProFlo
New Fuel system?
Is about it...

LS will be more money over all...
Beside it seems nobody needs work in Arizona as none of these shop respond to inquiries about LS swaps...
Oh, I forgot to tell you that the Proflo doesn't come with a coil, or plug wires. I don't understand why not, but add a few extra dollars there. Unless you have a good set of wires with the HEI style terminals. The coil needs a specific resistance, can't remember, it was common.
@sweetk30 , do you remember that number?
 
Man, reading old threads on this topic coupled with watching the endless stream of “ is going EFI, really that great”

It’s exhausting and I’m feel more confused than when i started down this rabbit hole.

With pro flo, do you need to swap the tank or can an external fuel pump be run similar to th sniper?

So basically between these two systems
What advantage does the pro flo have over the Holley to warrant a higher price tag and still not have fuel delivery system, which the Holley master kit comes with. Getting the ignition stuff for Holley still has you at a lower price point than the pro flo, from what I’ve seen.

Pro flo would be roughly $2500ish
Holley a few hundred less than the pro flo. Is the added cost of pro flo worth it, assuming one could afford it.

If you had the cash, what would you buy and why, Holley or pro flo?
 

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