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Tranny questions and more...

Yup! I think you are right. I gotta check that out.

Would a TBI throttle body have a shorter throw?? I don't really think so but...
 
I looked for that switch and found that it is no longer carried or made according to the auto parts stores. I installed Lokar throttle cables and a kick down switch on my truck. The lokar kick down connects to the carb linkage and is adjustable. Mine will kick down at 2/3rds throttle. You only have to apply 12v positive to the trans to make it downshift. There is a small solenoid in the bottom of the trans to make it shift. If it breaks, it is easily replaced when you pull the pan and change the trans fluid and clean the filter. Without vacuum to the modulator, the trans should wait until 4000+ rpm to shift. At least that is how mine is set. Now that I think of it, it may be possible to adjust the vacuum madulator. Mine did not work properly after my uncles shop rebuilt my trans, so he just changed it out. My trans will shift from 1st to 2nd at exactly 5500 rpm even if the shifter is in first gear. My other uncle had a 91 3500 pickup with the same trans but it would shift out of first at 4000 or so rpm. his was a 454 and also the trans was rebuilt for towing a 5th wheel. So, maybe they adjusted the setting on his or the trans for the big block shifts lower.
 
I am gonna take some pictures today of the throttle linkage. I can't do it yet, because I need a hand taking the hood off...

Is there anything else I should take pictures of while I am in there??
 
Yesterday I went out to take pictures. I got them but now they are useless. The problem was the tranny kick down cable that I THOUGHT I would be using... I didn't know those babies were adjustable, and when I gave the linkage a little force, that cable just telescoped out.

Problem solved.

And I did huck out the now bunk kick down cable.

Now that I have the proper amount of gas pedal throw to engage the switch, can somebody inform me of of how to hook up this switch?

I'm guessing the orange wire goes to a 12V ign. source, and the pink lead goes down to the tranny, and plugs in that way... Correct? Do I need an inline fuse??
 
A seperate question that needs an answer:

Which of the windstar fans should I use as my primary puller? I've read that they pull enough to only need one really...

Big fan:

=>Smaller/compact motor casing (lighter duty?)
=>Bigger fan would suck more juice??
=>My fan setup is off-center, so the larger fan has 1/3 of it not directly pulling air through the the rad.

Small Fan:

=>The motor can seems to be larger (maybe it's meant to be the primary puller out of the two fans...)
=>Smaller fan wouldn't use as much power... maybe...
=>Since my fans are off-center, the smaller fan has to cool 50% of the rad on it's own... Could the smaller fan even accomplish this task??


Also I am running two adjustable Fan switches. Hooking them up will be relatively simple... I just don't know where I can find two 3/8 NPT ports. Or even ports slightly larger that I could use a bushing on.

I have an 89' TBI engine, and I know it has a temp. sensor on it, but are there other unused ports? I see the two right near the base of the throttle body, but I thought those just go to the runner tubes...

And there is one on the passenger side cylinder head, but my header flange covers that baby right I think....

Are there any other places?? I need two ports... Unless I can splice, and run one temp. sensor. I don't see why not really.
 
If possible I'd test run it and see if the smaller fan will do it. You don't want to be relying on the second fan if you don't have to.

I don't think a temperature sender t- would be anything to worry about, especially since the switches are adjustable. You'll use engine temp to set the fan switch on/off anyway, so the coolant temp the switch sees isn't going to matter, as long as it follows the engine coolant temp trend.
 
I don't think a temperature sender t- would be anything to worry about, especially since the switches are adjustable. You'll use engine temp to set the fan switch on/off anyway, so the coolant temp the switch sees isn't going to matter, as long as it follows the engine coolant temp trend.
Click to expand...

So I could thread them into the the intake runner bungs?? Or could I just tap into the factory sender unit?
 
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