caleb22
1/2 ton status
Anyone know of a transfer case drop kit for a 89 K5? I came across one that BDS makes but I can't find anyone who sells it.
CK5
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Transfer Case Drop Kit
- Thread starter caleb22
- Start date
you can just take the spacers that are on the top inside the frame and move them to the bottom.
88Silverado
1/2 ton status
Heres a picture of the factory spacers just moved around to the other side. If your going to do hard wheeling the best setup is to get a 1" square bar and drill hols in it. Most just move the factory spacers.
I used 1x2 square tubing about 6 years ago and they are still going strong.
sunnyc123abc
1/2 ton status
Did you guys experience any tranny or t-case leakage due to the drop?
hack500
1/2 ton status
be aware that putting the factory spacers like shown in the pic can tweak the bottoms of the frame rails... atleast it happened on mine.
you can use the factory spacers which i did at first , but i got alot of popping which meant i needed something betta. so i cut some 1x1 squares that were 1/4" thick and used them. been working great and no more popping. 
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Its so clean, and new exhaust?88Silverado said:Heres a picture of the factory spacers just moved around to the other side. If your going to do hard wheeling the best setup is to get a 1" square bar and drill hols in it. Most just move the factory spacers.
loafer
1/2 ton status
purpose of spacers...
The purpose of the origional factory spacers is to increase the bolt grip, not as a means to drop the t-case. Yes, it does work, and I've tried it too, but it bent the crap out of my frame. A solid block of steel is a better choice for a spacer.
The purpose of the origional factory spacers is to increase the bolt grip, not as a means to drop the t-case. Yes, it does work, and I've tried it too, but it bent the crap out of my frame. A solid block of steel is a better choice for a spacer.
Leper
1/2 ton status
I have a ORD drop kit that I never used if you want to buy it. 50.00 shipped.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
You got me curious, increase the bolt grip?loafer said:
x2.roadnotca said:
88Silverado
1/2 ton status
I keep all my vehicles drivetrain clean. I do wheel the Blazer but when I return I steam clean it to look for cracks and leaks. I Hate working on greasy vehicles in my old age.
The crossover pipe is new since I had to do some exhaust work and got tired of the front shaft hitting it so had a slightly modified one installed. Still waiting to crush it on a rock but it hasnt happened yet.
As I said the factory spacers can be used to perform the drop but the best way is to use a block type material, as mentioned in this thread, to distribute the load to prevent tweaking or cracking of the frame rail.
Mine has a slight leak from the rear case seal but thats not due to the t-case being dropped, its due to a bad seal. In fact the seal from the trans to the case is also bad so every couple of oil changes I remove the t-case fill plug, drain out the excess, then top of the transmission fluid (flow-thru design
). The best way to set this up is with a high-angle driveshaft but I dont have the money for that. I do have replacement blocks drilled just havent installed them yet.
I was really suggesting the poster should try dropping the case to see if that gets rid of the vibe problem. So he can either try the factory spacers, a drop kit, some blocks or say screw it and get a new driveshaft.
The crossover pipe is new since I had to do some exhaust work and got tired of the front shaft hitting it so had a slightly modified one installed. Still waiting to crush it on a rock but it hasnt happened yet.
As I said the factory spacers can be used to perform the drop but the best way is to use a block type material, as mentioned in this thread, to distribute the load to prevent tweaking or cracking of the frame rail.
Mine has a slight leak from the rear case seal but thats not due to the t-case being dropped, its due to a bad seal. In fact the seal from the trans to the case is also bad so every couple of oil changes I remove the t-case fill plug, drain out the excess, then top of the transmission fluid (flow-thru design
). The best way to set this up is with a high-angle driveshaft but I dont have the money for that. I do have replacement blocks drilled just havent installed them yet. I was really suggesting the poster should try dropping the case to see if that gets rid of the vibe problem. So he can either try the factory spacers, a drop kit, some blocks or say screw it and get a new driveshaft.
So you guys advocating the blocks instead of flipping the spacers, you talking about using the blocks and spacers or just blocks with no spacers?
Not trying to hijack, just had a similar question.
Not trying to hijack, just had a similar question.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Same sound reasoning as swapping to more durable axles, HDsarasotausmc said:
88Silverado
1/2 ton status
Order of preference:
1) High angle driveshaft
2) Blocks to shim down t-case
3) Use factory spacers to shim down t-case
Use either blocks or spacers but do not use both together.
1) High angle driveshaft
2) Blocks to shim down t-case
3) Use factory spacers to shim down t-case
Use either blocks or spacers but do not use both together.
I used the factory spacers at first. I caught my crossmember last summer and tweaked my frame. After that I picked up some 1" by 2" tubing. I cut and drilled it for my t-case drop now and haven't had any more problems.
Rick
Rick
gotcha, thanks 88silverado
loafer
1/2 ton status
roadnotca said:
Bolt grip is the length of bolt between the nut and bolt head. If the grip length is too short it cannot be properly preloaded and will have a tendency to loosen; Think of the bolt as a spring with a high stiffness. The spacers basically insure that the spring is long enough for the given diameter. As a general rule of thumb, the grip length should be at least 2.5x the bolt diameter. Make any sence?
