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Truckasaurus. The rebirth and resurrection of a fallen legend

Overview Gallery Discussion
So today was a good day. After about a month of tearing apart, cleaning and painting I finally got to start putting stuff back ON the truck. So stoked.

Got the TNA crossmember painted and installed. Thing is perfect for what I need. Glad I discovered them. Only issue I had was the mount hit my hydro lines at full bump. Rotated the cylinder and put the lines underneath and no more issues. Actually looks cleaner this way too.

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What is cool is the next step is to get my motor in and start mockup. REAL PROGRESS! Ha

I also got my dash from DIY4X. As usual it exceeds expectations. I did have to notch it to fit the rollcage but it came out great. Only issue I had and I have known this was gonna hang me up for a while is the dash bar. I had a feeling it was gonna interfere with the dash and it does. Too tight to get the top bolts lined up. They are about 1/2 inch off. I am still deciding but I think I am gonna tack the bar to the dash to make it rattle proof and just burly.

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Food for thought, I believe that most people run the hydro lines on the top because running them underneath creates the possibility of air bubbles getting trapped in the cylinder. When the lines are on the top, the air just travels up the line and works itself out.
 
4wheelinfury said:
I shouldn't have any air in the system if I have bled it correctly.
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I guess if you worked all the air out of the system with the lines on the top and then flipped the cylinder over with everything still attached then it would be alright. If you ever do get air in the lines (i.e. loose fitting or cut hose) then you would just have to flip it back over to work the air out again.

My point is, that ideally the lines should be coming out of the top. Same concept as a bleeder valve on a caliper. It is really only setup to be operated in one orientation. You are simply getting around the resulting issues by bleeding it first and then flipping it.
 
What's that piece on the ram's shaft? Some sort of travel stop?

Also, what's the total travel on your ram?

The dash looks really good. :thumb:
 
I pulled the stops on the knuckles and so out that stop on the ram so the hydraulic won't break anything at full lock.
 
A bleeder valve is intended to be the high point in a system as it is intended to bleed the air. My high point in my system is the PSC resi. That will be the entry and exit point for any fluid. I see what your are saying but it seems that any scenario that could benefit from having the lines up top would be a result of an incorrectly installed system. A loose fitting, air trapped etc are all indicative of an incorrectly installed and bled system.

Maybe I am wrong, but I always assumed hydraulics could be run in any orientation. I mean lines on top is not always possible.
 
Let me get a true measurement for you when it is running and I can get it in the air. I can measure for you just on the shaft right now if that is what you want. All I did was turn the wheels to the max that I wanted (which was pretty freakin close to full lock) and then put the collar on.

I did get the a pillars and halo painted up today along with the dash. So tired.

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When you put in the new wiring harness can you do a detailed write up? I'm planning on an ls swap and wouldn't mind getting rid of some of the hack wiring that has been done to my truck.
 
Looks good man:waytogo:

Digging the orange for sure. Also nice seeing someone do assist similar to what I did. Can't wait to see how it works for you.
 
85 Jimmy said:
When you put in the new wiring harness can you do a detailed write up? I'm planning on an ls swap and wouldn't mind getting rid of some of the hack wiring that has been done to my truck.
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Yea let me see what I can do. I actually started the wiring last night and so far it is going pretty smoothly. I think I have an advantage as I have removed pretty much everything and am starting with a clean slate. As far as I can tell right now it is just easiest to deal with one part of the system at a time. Pull all the wires, route and terminate them at their destination, then do the same back at the fuse panel then mount the fuse panel.

Last night I got the new headlight and ignition switch mounted in the diy4x dash. Was a little concerned about moving the ignition for security reasons but I will be installing some hidden kill switches

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wetoolowdingbangow said:
Looks good.

This is wetoolowdingbangow and i approve this message
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Ha ha. You found me! I have multiple handles.

On another note, I just got off the phone with American Auto Wire. Those guys are fantastic. I have been slowly going through the kit figuring it out as to what goes where and had a few questions about kill switches, ignition routing, accessory channels, etc etc and they answered everything.

Feeling much better about the wiring plan now. I knew it would get sorted, but it is gonna feel so good to know exactly where everything is and where it all goes.
 
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