surpip
1 ton status
IMHO it is the shape of the opening the determins the look of the grill, not which way the bars go.
CK5
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Truggy build Season 4 (Project Freak)
- Thread starter bgreen
- Start date
cegusman
3/4 ton status
I like vertical too
Here are some pics showing how the top of the engine cage comes off. The triangular plate near the windshield is 3/16" A36, the rest is 1/8. [drum roll]The tube is....[/drum roll] 1-1/4" sch 40 A53A pipe. The two countersunk bolts will be 3/8" socket heads and the others will regular old 3/8" NC grade 8 stuff backed up by hardened washers and Stover Nuts.
TRAILTOYZ
1/2 ton status
I think that is the sweetest countersink job I've ever seen
I like the vertical. I would go for the idea to make the hood, fenders out of somthing that you can stand on. I would probally dutz(sp) fasten them on or something so you can take a panel off to work on it. I new a guy who did his in ABS plastic but you couldn't stand on them or anything and they were for the sides only.
Man, that IS a sweet countersink! Always a pleasure seeing your work Brook...
I dont know if I can pull it off but I'd like to cover the sides as much as possible. Here is a chop I've been thinking about. The camo is a bit overdone, but it will help break up the transition between the stock body lines and the new fabricated "body". It will also help the truck show up in photos again. What do you think?
oh, almost forgot... the chopped in tube work under the grill... I want to lower the winch to lower the COG of the truck and to make room for some lights behind the grill, so I was thinking about adding this tubing to mount and protect the winch.
oh, almost forgot... the chopped in tube work under the grill... I want to lower the winch to lower the COG of the truck and to make room for some lights behind the grill, so I was thinking about adding this tubing to mount and protect the winch.
Leper
1/2 ton status
x100TRAILTOYZ said:
OL14BLAZ
1/2 ton status
Dammit---that is just one BADASSSSSSS Rig!!!!
I like the lower winch, though it's obviously going to affect center approach angle. You've done so much already to affect the CoG in a very positive way (I think), I don't think I would give up that compromise just yet till I saw how it was going to work. Seems like comparitively small return for extra work and giving up the clearance...
But the main reason I responded is to comment on your statement:
But the main reason I responded is to comment on your statement:
Hmmm, adding camo so it *shows up again*???
BadDog said:I like the lower winch, though it's obviously going to affect center approach angle. You've done so much already to affect the CoG in a very positive way (I think), I don't think I would give up that compromise just yet till I saw how it was going to work. Seems like comparitively small return for extra work and giving up the clearance...
But the main reason I responded is to comment on your statement:
Hmmm, adding camo so it *shows up again*???
Well, the winch shouldnt really affect approach angle per say. It wont stick out any farther than the pad eyes that are already on there, but it will lower that part of the truck quite a bit, effectively lower the approach angle if I was straddling a large obsticle between the tires... I'll get a side shot of the mock up with the tires turned straight.
Yeah, I figured it would not affect the actual approach angle based on tires, but I've hung my nose on several rocks trying to get the right line, so I was getting at exactly what you said, rocks down the middle. Just didn't know what else to call it other than "appoach angle"...
I think I'll just cut that tube cross member out and see how far I can push it back. I dont think I really need it anyway because of the solid engine cross member. I hope to have something to post by the beginning of next week.
I agree with you though, it will be even more likely to cause problems now that the front of the truck is several inches lower.
I agree with you though, it will be even more likely to cause problems now that the front of the truck is several inches lower.
I finally cut the crossmember out and fabbed up what will likely be my final rendition of the winch mount and tube fairlead. Its all 1-1/4 (1.660" OD) pipe. Tomorrow I'll make the mounting tabs and finish welding it all together.
(Ignore the flat bar structure bolted to the winch itself, its just there to hold the outer foot to the drum for mock up.)
(Ignore the flat bar structure bolted to the winch itself, its just there to hold the outer foot to the drum for mock up.)
Very nice. Man, talk about shoe horn fits, any tighter and you'll need some KY to get that in there... 
Looks a little strange with that old fairlead and mount up there. Sorta like a weird smiley face or something.
Looks a little strange with that old fairlead and mount up there. Sorta like a weird smiley face or something.
BadDog said:Very nice. Man, talk about shoe horn fits, any tighter and you'll need some KY to get that in there...
Looks a little strange with that old fairlead and mount up there. Sorta like a weird smiley face or something.
Ya, being able to freely cycle the suspension, and hard limits for the bumpstops, has its benefits. The old fairlead has its purpose though... When I put the gin poles on the front, if I used the normal fairlead, the winch rope would have to make a tight bend around the upper tube. If I run the rope through the upper fairlead (the old one) the rope will come straight off the drum up over the pulley on the top of the gin poles.
The rear winch is set up the same way, but since the rear winch is a multi mount setup, I just put the whole winch in a different location to change this angle.I got the fairlead and winch mount done today, WHOOO HOOO! Took way too long but it turned out good and it lowers the winch quite a bit. It also moves the top of the winch away from the alternator and other belts so that there is less danger of getting a finger cut off. 
After fabricating the upper tubes to the fairlead I welded them to the upper and built this jig so I could sleeve the bolt holes for the lower winch mounting holes. Its a piece of 1/2" plate that I laid out the 4 holes (4.5"x10") and drilled to match the O.D. of the sleeves I planned to use. I then positioned the fairlead over the plate and tack welded in several places to make sure nothing could move. After the fairlead was solid I welded on several pieces of 3/16" plate to create legs, so the jig would sit flat on the drill press. Once everything is in place, its a simple matter of plunging the drill through the holes that were pre-drilled in the 1/2" plate and through both sides of the tube. When finished you will have 4 holes perfectly located and perfectly aligned with each other.
After fabricating the upper tubes to the fairlead I welded them to the upper and built this jig so I could sleeve the bolt holes for the lower winch mounting holes. Its a piece of 1/2" plate that I laid out the 4 holes (4.5"x10") and drilled to match the O.D. of the sleeves I planned to use. I then positioned the fairlead over the plate and tack welded in several places to make sure nothing could move. After the fairlead was solid I welded on several pieces of 3/16" plate to create legs, so the jig would sit flat on the drill press. Once everything is in place, its a simple matter of plunging the drill through the holes that were pre-drilled in the 1/2" plate and through both sides of the tube. When finished you will have 4 holes perfectly located and perfectly aligned with each other.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
you are me freakin hero man! I like vertical but dont leave yourself with only those two options, dont forget there are other things you can try like mabey a factory peace of grill if your going the factory looking rout. no what i mean?
