no , but i have another set handy - may try that.
CK5
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ugh. problems getting the truck to run after putting my old engine back in -Timing? Valve lash??
- Thread starter scouthead
- Start date
Tonight I relocated a ground that was in the “wrong place” and after seeing that, added another ground from intake to body…
Set timing to TDC #1… won’t start, and popping instead of firing up.
Back to TDC and pull distributor, flip 180 degrees… reinstall, rewire… crank it over- nothing. Wait a minute, cranking… decide to open the throttle, and rewarded with foot long flame from throttle body.
**** this thing. I’m done.
Set timing to TDC #1… won’t start, and popping instead of firing up.
Back to TDC and pull distributor, flip 180 degrees… reinstall, rewire… crank it over- nothing. Wait a minute, cranking… decide to open the throttle, and rewarded with foot long flame from throttle body.
**** this thing. I’m done.
If I may offer a "fresh" perspective.
When I run into an engine(SBC) that won't fire up.
I ALWAYS resort back to basics.
For sure, set engine to TDC. forget the timing marks for a minute. Pull number 1 plug, I have a piece of a coat hanger, as it's relatively soft metal. Drop into plug hole, turn crank by hand until coat hanger pushes up, and stops moving up. Then look for timing mark.
It's either spot on, or 180° out.
Make any adjustments, by hand, if necessary. Turning crank to get #1 dead on ZERO.
Now drop the dizzy in, pointing at #1.
Secure it,
Then attempt starting.
This almost always solves my problems.
I'm old and blind now, I still do this to get it done.
When I run into an engine(SBC) that won't fire up.
I ALWAYS resort back to basics.
For sure, set engine to TDC. forget the timing marks for a minute. Pull number 1 plug, I have a piece of a coat hanger, as it's relatively soft metal. Drop into plug hole, turn crank by hand until coat hanger pushes up, and stops moving up. Then look for timing mark.
It's either spot on, or 180° out.
Make any adjustments, by hand, if necessary. Turning crank to get #1 dead on ZERO.
Now drop the dizzy in, pointing at #1.
Secure it,
Then attempt starting.
This almost always solves my problems.
I'm old and blind now, I still do this to get it done.
I didn't see it mentioned, but have you confirmed firing order. Just a thought. We're pullin for ya.
Gracias!
I HAVE attempted to do this several times now, but, all attempts after lack of sleep and much frustration. coming at this thing tomorrow with a vengeance.
compression test. then,
If i have to pull the front of the motor off to verify the cam timing hasnt skipped, im doing it...
and then readjusting all the valves (one cylinder/ compression stroke at a time if needed).
then setting #1 TDC and distributor once again.
and if that still doesn't work, I will be scratching my head in confusion, all over, until I'm bald. -would start testing or replacing sensors, or components... but I DO HAVE fuel, and i DO HAVE spark. its my understanding that when most of those components go (ICM, pickup coil, coil, map sensor, ECM, etc...), its not going to be affecting timing- it would be preventing fuel or spark from happening.
If you have fuel,and you have spark. What you lack is proper timing.
Basics!
Basics!
And there are 2 of those at that!
Valve timing and ignition timing.
I was talking to a buddy at lunch.
my horrible thought last night was:
-what if someone were very tired, and upon setting TDC#1, and adjusting the valve lash... theoretically, if the motor was 180 out, and was actually firing on #6???
this would not be possible right? some would be so tight that pushrods would bend, and some would be so loose that rockers would jump off????????
I'm not saying I did this, but I'm grasping at straws. since the first time I adjusted the valves, i also pulled valve covers and readjusted the valves with the engine in the truck... there's no way I did that bass award's twice and still have no damage and no carnage.
my horrible thought last night was:
-what if someone were very tired, and upon setting TDC#1, and adjusting the valve lash... theoretically, if the motor was 180 out, and was actually firing on #6???
this would not be possible right? some would be so tight that pushrods would bend, and some would be so loose that rockers would jump off????????
I'm not saying I did this, but I'm grasping at straws. since the first time I adjusted the valves, i also pulled valve covers and readjusted the valves with the engine in the truck... there's no way I did that bass award's twice and still have no damage and no carnage.
aaaaaaaand if cam timing and distributor placement check out again... any idea what my next best culprit would be to look at? ICM? ECM?
cant be the egr, but could it? too easy to unplug and rule that out.
I believe I can test the MAP if needed... will have to pull up details, but used to know how to test the IAC and get it to reset initial pintle depth... none of this stuff seems like logical places to start trouble shooting if I already have fuel and spark.
Whoa, whoa, WHOA!
Stop for minute. With the harmonic balancer line up the timing mark.
Now, rotate the engine 90°.
Now, rotate the engine with your thumb over the #1 plug hole, feeling for compression. If you get compression, then line up the timing marks.
If you don't get any compression, rotate the engine one complete revolution, then feel for compression, again. You should get compression now.
If you do, line up the timing marks.
One thing at a time. Get this far, then report.
Stop for minute. With the harmonic balancer line up the timing mark.
Now, rotate the engine 90°.
Now, rotate the engine with your thumb over the #1 plug hole, feeling for compression. If you get compression, then line up the timing marks.
If you don't get any compression, rotate the engine one complete revolution, then feel for compression, again. You should get compression now.
If you do, line up the timing marks.
One thing at a time. Get this far, then report.
Valves to adjusts. When to adjust
As I am reading through this thread just now, I kept seeing "I set it at TDC #1" or "set it at TDC #1". But was it in compression stroke? I have seen this mistake so many times. The balancer goes around twice for the distributor once.
I have always adjusted the valves close but loose before start up. Then during run time while warm. Back nut off. Tighten to no slop. The 1/4 turn tighter. Never has failed.
Yeah… done that several times now. Matter of fact, just checked it again with the valve cover off- watched the valves on #1 through several rotations of the crank.
-exhaust valve closes
-intake valve opens
-intake valve closes
-another 30-45 ish degrees of rotation and the timing mark is on zero, with both valves fully closed on #1. Distributor rotor is now pointing at #1 cylinder.
Tried new cap and rotor- tried to fire it up- nothing but puff puff popping noises and still not running
Checked things until blue in the face
Just looking through all of this. Maybe not enough fuel pressure? Is this the same tbi unit from the other engine or a different one?
OK, lets take the fuel part, out of the equation.
Grab the Cosby sauce, give her a snort, crank it. If it's going to fire, it will.
Grab the Cosby sauce, give her a snort, crank it. If it's going to fire, it will.
Flammable Brake clean is my favourite go to diag tool.
turn the dizzy counter clockwise and see what happens
Same throttle body used on engine 1, then 2, now 1again. Worked fine last weekend before swapping engines
-edit- also, not that this necessarily means anything, but the fuel pump was replaced less than 10,000.00 miles ago… grounds were cleaned up at that time.
I no longer have a pressure gauge on the throttle body because I was always chasing fuel leaks from it.
But, the pump primes quickly before turning the key on the column, and I have gas coming out of the injectors.
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Ha- yeah… there is gas. I flooded the motor yesterday cranking it- the gas goes in, but not igniting/running… gas starts building up.
Keep in mind I have had several foot flaming backfires out of the throttle body when I tried to open it while cranking.
A few days ago- the Last time I had it barely running- had to advance the distributor 30-40 degrees just to get it to stay “running” so I could feather the clutch and get it reparked - it was so far rotated that I was stretching all the wiring.
This made me think that I could rotate all the plug wires one terminal over and then bring the distributor back a few degrees counter clockwise? Nope. No change.
