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Unbreakable drivetrain?

Sweet it all sounds good, so noone has said anything yet about my 14 bolt, so I can leave it for now and upgrade my d60 to 35 spline chromolys (when the funds permit) I would love longfields but they are a little much for me. and as for power, I dont plan on going to big. maybe around 350hp when all said and done, and I would never bastardize a chevy by puting A cummins in it, NEVER! lol, Jk luke
 
K10 KRAWLER said:
true, you could always do that. but while I am thinking of it, what makes a good anchor when theres nothing around to winch off of
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A broken 14b shaft of course! I have used a knock off of a pull-pal it seamed to work really well considering we was in deep sand. It pulled about 3-4 feet then dug in tight. It was at sand mountain, little Sahara UT it wasn't my truck winch or anchor but the owner didn't know how to use any of it.
 
K10 KRAWLER said:
Why Would I want TSLS over boggers in the front?
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Because TSLs dont bite as hard as the Boggers....which may lead to fewer broken parts in the front.

A few of my buddies run that combo.
44 in TSLs on a stock D60 front with Boggers in the rear.
Seems to work....they beat their junk pretty hard and I havent seen them repair the 60s.
 
original balzer said:
14b are just tough to begin with but some alloy shafts will upgrade them nicely.
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Aftermarket 14 bolt shafts are 1514 IIRC, which is basically the same material as a stock shaft.

Who breaks 14 bolt shafts, really? And what kind of hp, how big of tires and how heavy is the rig?

Its practically unheard of, 14 bolts are probably reliable up until a 49" tire if I had to guess.
 
Im running 35 spline yukon chromos with Spicer Life Series joints... I have broken one short side inner, but the ujoint still looks like new. I would not spend the coin on CTMs in a 60. As to the driveline... I would run 1410s... or bigger
gabe
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
Im running 35 spline yukon chromos with Spicer Life Series joints... I have broken one short side inner, but the ujoint still looks like new. I would not spend the coin on CTMs in a 60. As to the driveline... I would run 1410s... or bigger
gabe
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I'd agree that CTM's aren't a good choice for their strength per $. Bobby Long has testing showing that his joints are a bit stronger at about half the price.

The Spicer 1480 joints (D60 axle joints) are very stout as well, generally even aftermarket shafts will break before them.


As for big joints in the driveline, why? People upgrade that stuff, but they usually go WAY overkill. Sure, that little 1350 joint is smaller than the 1480 one at the axle but the axle joint sees 3, 4, maybe 5 times as much torque (depends on gear ratio). Nearly every driveline u-joint failure is due to binding of the joint or strap/yoke failure.
 
agreed on the binding.... that is where a bigger ujoint will not bind as quickly and be less likely to break. I run 1410s in my driveshafts because I need the additional angle out of the driveshafts. The only joint that is still a 1350 is at my rear Eaton bc I cant get a 1410 yoke for it. It is the only one that I have broken... 3 times actually, but I think that was due to binding with spring wrap. Since I fixed the wrap issue I havent had a problem out of it.
gabe
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
agreed on the binding.... that is where a bigger ujoint will not bind as quickly and be less likely to break. I run 1410s in my driveshafts because I need the additional angle out of the driveshafts. The only joint that is still a 1350 is at my rear Eaton bc I cant get a 1410 yoke for it. It is the only one that I have broken... 3 times actually, but I think that was due to binding with spring wrap. Since I fixed the wrap issue I havent had a problem out of it.
gabe
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Bigger joint does not mean more angle.

For instance, a 1310 joint has more angular capacity than a 1330 or 1350 joint. 1310 and 1410 are pretty close, in the 30 deg. range.

As for joints bigger than that, I don't really know. Joints that are used in steering axles can generally accomplish higher angles, such as 1480's (D60 axle joints) that won't bind until 40 degrees or so IIRC.
 
38377k5 said:
Bigger joint does not mean more angle.

For instance, a 1310 joint has more angular capacity than a 1330 or 1350 joint. 1310 and 1410 are pretty close, in the 30 deg. range.

As for joints bigger than that, I don't really know. Joints that are used in steering axles can generally accomplish higher angles, such as 1480's (D60 axle joints) that won't bind until 40 degrees or so IIRC.
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Sorry... So far as being strong enough with enough angular capacity the 1410s have worked great for me.
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
Sorry... So far as being strong enough with enough angular capacity the 1410s have worked great for me.
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Agreed, I just don't want other people to be confused and assume that a higher # joint means more angle because it certainly does not.

1410's have lots of angle and are very strong, I've been running them in the front of my truck for quite a while with no issues. Plenty of angle and strength, a great choice for a driveline.

1350's are nearly as strong but can only turn ~20 degrees (vs. 30 or so for 1410's).
 
So I hate to be a newb, but the 1410s would go on the pinion of the axles? and is 1410, 1310, etc just a size measurement? and I imagine ill have to upgrade driveshaft yokes as well?
 
Unbreakable drivetrain you say?

Mechanical 4bt/6bt, 2wd sm465 or commercial truck trans, divorced rockwell or np200, equal length shafts for least angle, portals or rockwells. Stocker rockwells would be unbreakable on 38's and you'd have really awesome low gearing with 6.71's? and granny.

Realistically doubtfully-breakable for 38s you are way way way on the right track, 350/sm465/205, 1 tons with detroits and 35spline outers.
 
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