What city are you in here in Cali that will see temps that cold often enough to worry about it?
CK5
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UPDATE: Finally, some "ManSpace" again.... !! LET THERE BE POWER !!
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
Greg hasn't been in California for about 3 years now. He is in New Hampshire.
Randy92782
1 ton status
is that a Porsche i spy in the back ground of the third pic??
Chevy305 said:Is that the 396 you have for sale?
Yes....and I'd like it out of here, I need the space back.
Randy92782 said:
Good catch..... I found that in the garage after I bought the house. NOT!
Randy92782
1 ton status
i've always wanted one but never have the money when i need it.
daleearnhardt01
1/2 ton status
Avery4jc said:
Um does "Granite State" mean anything to you????
Um no not really I must be an idiot 
I found this via our good buddy google and thought it was interesting...
[SIZE=-1]Areas That Experience Abnormal Temperatures[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]The starting and operation of fluorescent and high-intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems can be affected by abnormal temperatures.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]In low-temperature environments such as refrigerated areas, fluorescent lamps can experience adverse performance such as "fluttering," reduced light output and difficulty starting by the ballast. In such applications, enclosed fixtures, special "cold weather" fluorescent lamps and/or jacketed lamps can help ensure reliable performance; in addition, fixtures can be located a suitable distance from cold-air source units. Cold weather ballasts that can start the lamps at temperatures below 0°F should be specified for applications where the ambient temperature is expected to be below 50°F. Cold weather electronic and magnetic ballasts can be specified for HO and VHO lamps that can start them at temperatures as low as -20°F. See the Table below for minimum starting temperatures for a variety of fluorescent ballasts. HID lamps can start in a wide range of ambient temperatures.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Table. Minimum Starting Temperatures for Typical Fluorescent Ballasts[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1]Ballast[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Typical Minimum Starting Temperature[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/standard T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/energy-saving T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/HO or VHO T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F, -20°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Hybrid* w/standard T12 or T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Hybrid w/energy-saving T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/2, 3 & 4 ft. T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/standard T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/energy-saving lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/8 ft. "Slimline" T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/HO T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F, -20°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]*Also called a cathode cut-out ballast[/SIZE]
[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]In areas experiencing high ambient temperatures, the ballast can overheat. Class P ballasts contain a thermal protection device that disconnects the ballast from the power source if it begins to overheat. The ballast then cools until an automatic resetter reconnects it to the power supply. If the overheating is not corrected, the process, called "cycling," will repeat itself. In addition, if the temperatures are high enough, ballast life could be shortened and light output reduced.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Fixtures in areas experiencing high ambient temperatures should be well-ventilated. In such fixtures, the heat produced by the lamps generates convection currents that remove the heat. Special HID ballasts can be specified that are designed to operate under high ambient temperatures, or the ballast can be located at a remote location (the distance subject to limitations). [/SIZE]
I found this via our good buddy google and thought it was interesting...
[SIZE=-1]Areas That Experience Abnormal Temperatures[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]The starting and operation of fluorescent and high-intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems can be affected by abnormal temperatures.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]In low-temperature environments such as refrigerated areas, fluorescent lamps can experience adverse performance such as "fluttering," reduced light output and difficulty starting by the ballast. In such applications, enclosed fixtures, special "cold weather" fluorescent lamps and/or jacketed lamps can help ensure reliable performance; in addition, fixtures can be located a suitable distance from cold-air source units. Cold weather ballasts that can start the lamps at temperatures below 0°F should be specified for applications where the ambient temperature is expected to be below 50°F. Cold weather electronic and magnetic ballasts can be specified for HO and VHO lamps that can start them at temperatures as low as -20°F. See the Table below for minimum starting temperatures for a variety of fluorescent ballasts. HID lamps can start in a wide range of ambient temperatures.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Table. Minimum Starting Temperatures for Typical Fluorescent Ballasts[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1]Ballast[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Typical Minimum Starting Temperature[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/standard T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/energy-saving T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Magnetic w/HO or VHO T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F, -20°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Hybrid* w/standard T12 or T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Hybrid w/energy-saving T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/2, 3 & 4 ft. T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/standard T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/energy-saving lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+60°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/8 ft. "Slimline" T8 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Electronic w/HO T12 lamps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]+50°F, 0°F, -20°F[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]*Also called a cathode cut-out ballast[/SIZE]
[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]In areas experiencing high ambient temperatures, the ballast can overheat. Class P ballasts contain a thermal protection device that disconnects the ballast from the power source if it begins to overheat. The ballast then cools until an automatic resetter reconnects it to the power supply. If the overheating is not corrected, the process, called "cycling," will repeat itself. In addition, if the temperatures are high enough, ballast life could be shortened and light output reduced.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Fixtures in areas experiencing high ambient temperatures should be well-ventilated. In such fixtures, the heat produced by the lamps generates convection currents that remove the heat. Special HID ballasts can be specified that are designed to operate under high ambient temperatures, or the ballast can be located at a remote location (the distance subject to limitations). [/SIZE]
Awesome!, looks like ya got enough room for a lathe.....
The flourescent fixtures for below freezing are completely sealed from the outside. They burn brighter and brighter as the air trapped inside warms up from the heat of the ballast and lamps. Pricey. I say insulate and sheetrock, and a pot belly stove. Congrats! Looks really nice!
The flourescent fixtures for below freezing are completely sealed from the outside. They burn brighter and brighter as the air trapped inside warms up from the heat of the ballast and lamps. Pricey. I say insulate and sheetrock, and a pot belly stove. Congrats! Looks really nice!
That's why God invented heaters!Greg72 said:Good input...but I need to consider something that I'll bet you never think about in Texas....
Do you know that a typical florescent fixture won't even light up when the temps get below freezing??? Apparently, there are special designs for cold environments (more ballast voltage?).... I'm hoping my garage won't be that cold very often, but it's still one of those weird considerations that I never dealt with in NorCal.
I had florescent lights in the garage Colorado and they worked fine after about a 5 minute warmup. They would come on in cold weather, just not at full brightness. But that garage was also fully insulated and attached to the house, so it was never as cold as the outside temp. 
Nice setup! I can't wait until I get a house with a garage big enough that I can actually do some wrenching. 
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Greg there seems to be something wrong, I can`t see the bender or welder set up yet.
BIGBLAZE433 said:Greg there seems to be something wrong, I can`t see the bender or welder set up yet.
Patience grasshopper.........patience.
I'm spending Saturday doing nothing but Man Space stuff, it's going to be awesome.....big cup of coffee, a new iTunes playlist for just the right background music....then it's time to start setting everything up the way I want it.
I'm thinking about building a "real" staircase to the attic storage area as a first priority. There is a tremendous amount of space up there for extra parts and non-essential items, but the only access currently is by climbing a ladder through that hole where my hardtop is stored. Ever try climbing a ladder with a box of heavy truck parts?
As for the welder, plasma cutter and compressor, those are going to need help from VTBlazer since they all run on 220V and the garage is currently set up with screw-in type fuses......yes, the kind you put a penny behind the fuse to get more power from!!
Clearly, the garage is going to need more juice and a larger, more moden panel, but there is plenty to accomplish before that item starts holding me back.
Fixed it for ya Greg! Be sure to friend-request me when you're done!Greg72 said:
Be careful......you do not want to anger TortillaMan!!!
Greg72 said:
Nice looking place Greg.
Congrats!!! Nice layout!!!
!!! LET THERE BE POWER !!!! 
Just a quick update..... Kurt (aka VTBLAZER) is on his way down to my place to help add some SERIOUS electrical power to the man space!
By the end of the day, My 220V compressor should be installed and compressing....and I should have 220V hookups for the welder and plasma cutter as well. With all the extra space in the sub-panel there will be plenty of room for lighting circuits, 110V outlets and whatever else I can dream up.
This is a perfect example of what the CK5 Brotherhood is all about. Guys who probably would never have even met, getting involved and helping each other out....all because of a little website called ColoradoK5.com
I'll take some updated photos throughout the day and post them up later on.
Just a quick update..... Kurt (aka VTBLAZER) is on his way down to my place to help add some SERIOUS electrical power to the man space!
By the end of the day, My 220V compressor should be installed and compressing....and I should have 220V hookups for the welder and plasma cutter as well. With all the extra space in the sub-panel there will be plenty of room for lighting circuits, 110V outlets and whatever else I can dream up.
This is a perfect example of what the CK5 Brotherhood is all about. Guys who probably would never have even met, getting involved and helping each other out....all because of a little website called ColoradoK5.com
I'll take some updated photos throughout the day and post them up later on.
