What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Very Newb question here...

oh yeah. Damn i dont know about the bigger rubber then. I guess i should mess with the gears if i put bigger tires on. How hard is it to do?
 
Dabba said:
oh yeah. Damn i dont know about the bigger rubber then. I guess i should mess with the gears if i put bigger tires on. How hard is it to do?
Click to expand...

The gears? If you're gonna lift and go with bigger tires, do it all at once. Otherwise, you may end up with gears that are too low for your current application, or too high for your future needs.

Generally speaking, there's two types of people. Those that install and setup gears in axles, and those that give the first group money.

Then there's jackasses like me who jump in with only an instructional DVD and CK5 to help me should I get lost. Granted, the former is good and the latter is an unbelievable resource. :D:D:D But I have an unquenchable thirst for knowledge, and would rather screw it up twice before getting it, just for the satisfaction of learning what to do and what not to do...oh, and doing it myself...and you also end up with more tools than when you started.

I'll let you know how hard it is once I finish mine. I've got it almost all the way disassembled. Looks like I'm gonna have to yank it out from underneath the truck though, to get a machine shop with a press to push out the pinion.

It is something that must absolutely be done right. Otherwise you risk destroying your new parts and paying twice. You need a couple of very specific tools to take measurements with (a dial indicator and a torque gauge capable of measuring down to the lb/inch) but there's not a whole lot of parts involved. It's more about measuring and having the proper tools, some of which you're not likely to keep lying around.
 
Yeah, it seems that alot of it isnt too hard, just need the tools and im sure once ive got through it once it wont be bad. My plan is to id the tranny t case and axes with the gears and see what i have. If shes still alive and kickin next summer ill probably purchase the lift and maybe 4.11 or whatever it is. I have the lmc truck catalog and it looks like 400 for the 2 sets of rings and pinions, if thats all i need (i assume thats it but im sure im wrong) pluss another 6 for the 4 inch lift. I plan to do it all myself and i have never worked that extensivily on a vehical before. But ill have my friends help and im sure ill get through it. I just wanna see if its worth it yet. Any way to id the axles or tranny? illpost up a pic of the t-case tommorow.
 
Dabba said:
bumpppp
Click to expand...

Post some pics of everything you want I.D.'d. Also your transfer case had a tag on it when it was new that told you what it was. Rear axle: count the # of bolts holding on the cover- 10, 12, or 14. Just be advised that there are 2 kinds of 14B. The fronts will all have 10 bolts on the cover. It doesn't matter if its a 10B, D44, or D60. You do not have a 60 so that leaves the 10 or 44. If it doesn't look like a Dana cover its the 10B. The pic of a 10B on the CK5 axle ID page doesn't look quite right. But the Dana one is perfect.

Hope that helps, and remember a picture is worth a 1000 words.
 
Alright here we go. Upon further inspection, it looks as if the front axle may be new, as well as the tranny was worked on as well as a new/reworked t case. So it looks as if my drivetrain is pretty new. Also, i noticed almost no rust under the middle of the truck. Only the usual little at the edge of the tailpan and by the doors/rockers. Is this normal or is my underbody pretty good? Im not sure. also i tried to get pics but it seemed very hard to get angles of the tranny. Let me know ill try for more if needed. Heres the pics. Oh yeah, it appears i have 10 bolts.

100_0650.jpg

100_0651.jpg
\
100_0652.jpg

100_0653.jpg

100B0662.jpg

100_0670.jpg

100_0671.jpg

100_0672.jpg


If you want morepics just ask me where to take em and i will, if someone knows wher the number on the tranny is then i can id it. i hope. Thanks!
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/Aragorn2087/100_0651.jpg
 
Yep...10 bolt axles front and back, NP208 transfer case... I can't make out enough of the transmission, but it's probably a 700R4. If you could back the camera away or zoom out and take a picture of the tranny pan, then it'd be easy to I.D.
 
Also...FYI...in the 2nd pic of the transfer case, there's a round, red tag held on with a screw in the center. It's covered by a lot of grease and grime. Wipe it off with a rag, and that should have the model number...
 
will do. yes it is a 208, just checked the tag. Heres the tranny pics..

100_0673.jpg

100_0674.jpg

100_0675.jpg


Its really hard to get the whole angle. Thanks for the help.
 
Given the year of your truck and fact that the axles and t-case are probably stock (even if they've been worked on), the tranny is almost certainly a 700R4. As for the motor, do you know it's a 350?

In my opinion, if you've "never worked extensively on a vehicle" before, starting with a gear setup on both of your axles may be unwise. If you plan to use this rig for mild off-roading and/or street driving, you could probably swap in a set of used 3.73 geared 10 bolt axles cheaper than buying new gears for the ones you have.
 
i was told by my machanic its a 350 and i know alot of people swap out the 305 in favor of the 350. Ive know its hard to tell the difference between a 305 and 350 and you need to check the numbers on the block. Ive looked at all the places i was told and its just bare metal. So im relying on what the mechanic told me. As far as the gears, its 3.08 stock, but if i go with 33 or 35s do you think i should change them or would it be fine with the 3.08? Im still going to check to see if its really a 3.08 eventually.
 
i read about the 700r4 that it wouldnt be able to handle the power of a 350? Was that just the early ones or what? IS that why you think it might not be a 305? Any other possible way to ID a 305 from 350 because im having a really hard time with this.:confused:
 
bumppppppp Anyone know any way to ID the motor without ripping it apart? I tried looking for the numbers behind the altenator on the pass side of the front of the block, i even tried whipping it down but its just flat metal. I heard theres numbers on the driver side rear of the block but theres no way im getting back there. Any other way? I mean my mechanic told me it was a 350 and i believed him because i mean if it had a 305 and it was blown, i would assume it would be more worthwhile to put a 350 in. Plus it looks like the whole drivetrain had an overhaul. But do you guys think its a 305 being its pre 1987 withthe 700r4 tranny? IF anyone has any ideas how to id the thing let me know. Thanks! I eventually wanna put an exhaust on it with headers. and in case i need any parts. Thanks1:confused:
 
Dabba said:
bumppppppp Anyone know any way to ID the motor without ripping it apart? I tried looking for the numbers behind the altenator on the pass side of the front of the block, i even tried whipping it down but its just flat metal. I heard theres numbers on the driver side rear of the block but theres no way im getting back there. Any other way? I mean my mechanic told me it was a 350 and i believed him because i mean if it had a 305 and it was blown, i would assume it would be more worthwhile to put a 350 in. Plus it looks like the whole drivetrain had an overhaul. But do you guys think its a 305 being its pre 1987 withthe 700r4 tranny? IF anyone has any ideas how to id the thing let me know. Thanks! I eventually wanna put an exhaust on it with headers. and in case i need any parts. Thanks1:confused:
Click to expand...

At this point, your two options are tearing it down or finding a casting number...somewhere. Beyond that, I'm afraid you're out of luck. GM engineering dictated that pretty much all small blocks look the same and, for the most part, can interchange parts. But that's a good thing :D

Can't you slide your hand back there and feel around for the casting numbers? You don't have to see it, just find it. Use Silly Putty (or similar) to make a negative of the casting marks once you find 'em. If you can't find it from the top, try from underneath.
 
damn, i guess ill find out when i go to get parts haha. Uhh, am i looking at the drivers side rear of the block or the pass side front? or both? As far as the pass side front i looked right behind/below the altenator. Got my hands down there with a gas rag and wiped it down with no luck, looked and felt around, just flat metal. Is this common or should it be there? Is it in the back of the block only? Cause if thats the case ill do my best to get a look at the rear.
 
Dabba said:
damn, i guess ill find out when i go to get parts haha. Uhh, am i looking at the drivers side rear of the block or the pass side front? or both? As far as the pass side front i looked right behind/below the altenator. Got my hands down there with a gas rag and wiped it down with no luck, looked and felt around, just flat metal. Is this common or should it be there? Is it in the back of the block only? Cause if thats the case ill do my best to get a look at the rear.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure it's at the back of the block.

And for the most part, when you're buying engine parts, there's not going to be a difference between the 305 and 350. Most, if not all of the external parts will be the same.
 
alright ill have to take a looksee and crawl into the engine bay. Is it all the top corner/bottom corner? Think its best to go from the top? Ill see if i can find it and let you know tommorow. What would it say? is it code?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom