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Wanna build a DRIFT-Burban

New thought... if you are going for weight, and possibly a newer body style, what about a beat-up early tahoe so save the weight and swap in a 9".
Those came in 2wd, all are 1/2ton frames, but they lost about 2 feet off the back-end, and yet longer than a k5....

Just food for thought.
 
low end torque is great but if you're drifting, you're always near or at the rev limiter. i would reccommend something that spins up real fast, a forced induction GMPP ram-jet 502 would be amazing.
 
fiberglass skins and a cage maybe? gotta get all that weight a burb has up top down low.
 
muddysub said:
low end torque is great but if you're drifting, you're always near or at the rev limiter. i would reccommend something that spins up real fast, a forced induction GMPP ram-jet 502 would be amazing.
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I agree, low end grunt isn't what you need. Think about it, most of the drifters are running Inline 6s that make jack for torque on the bottom.
 
Drifting is an RPM game, so you can toss the Caddy 500 right out the window. The valve trains get really unhappy when you spin them up.
 
There is no reason you cant use a caddy for this application. Shaft mounted rockers arent all that expensive and with the addition of good heads, good springs, etc, you should be able to rev 6500 rpm without risk of failure and make good HP.

But why would you need to turn the engine super high, just use high axle gears? Use the low end torque to your advantage. I doubt anyone would argue that the new Duramax cant be a good drag race engine for a full size truck because it only revs to 3000 rpm.
 
I concur with the 9" idea take all the glass out and use speedglass or plexiglass I think a twin turbo 350 would work really well get a couple of books on turbocharging it can be done on a budget. Even a single turbo beef the hell out of the block and use top quality parts and run 20 -40 psi. I think the most expensive part is going to be the suspension and motor
 
bgreen said:
But why would you need to turn the engine super high, just use high axle gears? Use the low end torque to your advantage. I doubt anyone would argue that the new Duramax cant be a good drag race engine for a full size truck because it only revs to 3000 rpm.
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Gears or not, the ability to spin the tires at 40+ MPH is going to require POWER. Won't be doing 60mph sideways in a burb while spinning hte tires at 100 with 5.13 gears, not unless your engine can REV.

Drag racing and Drifting are two totally different things.
 
sled_dog said:
Gears or not, the ability to spin the tires at 40+ MPH is going to require POWER. Won't be doing 60mph sideways in a burb while spinning hte tires at 100 with 5.13 gears, not unless your engine can REV.

Drag racing and Drifting are two totally different things.
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They are? I would have never guessed! :bow: :wink1: (just messing with ya man, sorry)

High gears. like 2.70's or something like that, not 5.13's.

Im not saying that a junkyard engine swap is gonna be enough power, but I do think that a caddy engine would work just fine with the right tweaking. As would anything else ofcourse.

It sounds like bigbluesub wants to build a truck to stoplight race and road race as much or more than drift with. I think he could easily do that with what he has laid out.

I am getting tried of seeing these little tuner cars around town pulling G's in the corners and kickin' my ass off the line. I am going to start looking for a 2wd Sub to make into a drift Sub.

Now I do have a couple of questions for everyone out there.

Do you think that I should look for a .5 or .75 ton rig?

I am thinking that I will put a Caddy Motor in it, strip the interior down to NOTHING, Install a roll cage, Tub the rear for fat wide low profile tires and hit the street lookin' for tunerz to kill.

I am also thinking about an airbag suspension, but I don't want it to add too much weight to my Import Killa

Any suggestions?
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sled_dog said:
I agree, low end grunt isn't what you need. Think about it, most of the drifters are running Inline 6s that make jack for torque on the bottom.
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I have seen some torquey inline 6's in my day...in fact, I would say inline 6's have more torque than most v6's. Examples: Jeep's 4.0, MB 3.2, Toyota's 3.0 They were all amazing engines which better curves usually towards the lower-end.

Isn't most drifting 30-40mph? If so, you are in 2nd gear goiong 35mph and only have 32" tires with 4.1's you are looking at only 2200rpm; low-end grunt IMHO
 
the pros are at 60mph+

Brook, I get what you are saying now, high gears with good mid range power would probably do pretty decent.

Personally, drifting and street racing are two different things, two different setups. Though really you could probably build a good setup that all you would have to do is tweak sway bar and shock settings, throw on some sticky tires and it could go from Drift to Drag quickly.
 
I think it would be a really cool rig, REALLY cool rig. If it was mine, I wouldnt care too much if it could out drift, or out drag most of the imports, just the posers. It would just be fun to build and fun to drive, and really different!

I've been wanting to build a low buck 2wd 73-87 chevy pickup with the engine thats in my buggy (513" Cad). Leave it primer grey, lower it a tad, and just have fun with it.
 
I always wanted to build a 73-76 2wd, single cab short bed with a 6.2 and some type of 4 speed behind it. Wouldn't go anywhere fast but make a ton of noise getting there.
 
dammit. you guys have got me looking through the local papers for an old 2wd sub now.... now all i need is a suburban, lots of steel, a turbo'd 502, a ford 9" and tons of money!
 
Lincoln Versallies is what you want if you want a Ford 9", because it comes stock with a 5x5 bolt pattern, and is disc braked. a few mods to an 8.5" 10 bolt out of a 9C1 Caprice, and it could be nearly as strong. as with the Lincoln 9", its factory 5x5 and disc braked.

as for the Burb idea... i think it would be better suited for a 2wd K5. anybody who has ever driven an insanely short wheelbase drag car (think Vega/Monza, Pinto, etc) will know how much weight transfer can effect things. when you want to hook up and go fast, a shorter wheelbase is definitely a tool to use to your advantage.

personally, i'd go for a lowered 2wd K5 (could start with a 4wd, then add a 2wd front crossmember, its all bolt in) glass everywhere you can get it, cage it, hard springs up front, soft in the rear, with a set of CalTracs (www.calvertracing.com). strip out all the power options, and the interior. i have seen .060" aluminum used to replace the stock interior panels, and it still looks pretty good.

i was going to build a C10 to do basically the same thing. i was going to go a little further than most. lightening holes in the dash under the dashpad, behind the door panels, hell even in the window regulators you can shed some weight. want to keep it stealthy? keep the outer heater box and even the hoses. drill and tap the fittings at the intake and the water pump to accept pipe plugs, the hoses will still be there, but wont weigh near as much as ones full of water. i cut a heater core down to retain them to the firewall. the blower motor can be gutted to appear stock. EGR valves, hot air chokes, etc can also be gutted blocked off with pop cans. the above mentioned black primer will hide the fiberglass nicely. no chrome under the hood, maybe even a light coat of oil on the outside of the engine, so it doesnt look messed with. i've seen a stock air cleaner used to hide a plate nitrous system. no blingy red and blue anodized fittings, paint em black, and cover with wire loom. as for the ignition system, the hole created under the dash by the removal of the heater/AC system is a perfect candidate for ignition system mounting, Borg Warner plug wires (black, look like nothing, but are the best out there).

thanks alot, now i want to build the sleeper truck that i never finished. :rolleyes:
 
I can totally appreciate what people are saying about short wheel base rigs. But for me. It's a Sub. I like the idea of screamin down the road in a HUGE.

I am actively looking for a cheap 2wd rig to start this thing off with. I bet that I could have it built over the winter and be out next summer putin' a hurt on tuner cars.

Keep the idea coming. I am making a list and checking it twice.
 
theres that 2wd 3/4 ton on craigslist in Eugene, green with a 4l80e and small block (the one thats not bolted in) i think he wanted $800
 
two suggestions on beating ricers.... on build a 1 ton 4wd suburban with a stout front bumper and just run them over and off the road... or detuer the road they drift on to offroad and when they get high centered on a rock or such, you climb on or around them :) silly rabbit drifting is for kids
 
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