Wanna build a DRIFT-Burban

[velojym]

It'd be heavy, but I think it would rock to win a race as the ultimate sleeper, then check the loser's face when he sees 6 or 7 guys climb out of the 'burban at the finish line.

 

[buefchris]

save your cash and airbag it......much better ride you'll enjoy.

 

[tiny2085]

so I put a set of 22's on my burb and a 2" shackle in the rear and took it to the drap strip. With 5 people in it, at a combined extra weight, not counting the driver of 750 punds I ran a 19.2!!!!!! yea for me

 

[destro360]

wow

solid rear suspension, I don't mean solid mount, just solid built.

If it were me I'd build a Truck Arm suspension, ala 67-72 2wd trucks. Coils, panhard, 2 longitudinal/lateral locating arms. Good and soild, with a strong panhard. There is going to be a LOT of side load on that rear suspension. No matter what setup you use, a Panhard is a MUST!!! And no cheesy junk one, a beefy Panhard.

Sway bar is a good start. All poly bushings in the front suspension is a good one. The nice strong front sway bar(and custom one in the rear). Good set of lowering coils, or drop knuckles would be better(keep stock spring rate).

Bags are absolutely not the way to go. Good for tuning but a set of rear coilovers would be the absolute best option. No not 2.5" King Coilovers, though if you want you could do that, I mean corner burner coilovers. Bags are good for a soft ride and playing with them(bouncing, etc.) nothing else in my opinion.

Frame strengthening: The Burb frames are weak, personally K5, K10, K20, K30, and Burb frames are junk in my eyes. You will NEED to strengthen around the suspension mounts(especially the panhard) in the rear. Also you will need a small cage. I'd say a 6 point in the front would be good. Will stiffen in the front and protect you in case of a roll over.

Rear: I agree, a 9" is a better way to go. Less weight, all the strength you need. Spooled or welded. If you plan to street drive a selectable could work out, but a spool or welded rear will be best for being sideways.

Transmission: MANUAL, you will need to be dumping the clutch at RPMs a lot to keep it spinning, so a GOOD manual trans(think M22 or built M21), is a must. And a good clutch. You will be going through clutches and tires like mad.(most drifters go through a set of a tires an event, if not a run)

Tires: doesn't need to be anything crazy expensive or wide(you aren't looking for traction here). Guys I know have been running junk tires(literally). They go to the junkyard and buy old hard tires. Throw them on, and burn them off. Make for good practice tires.

Engine: HORSEPOWER!!! Forced induction would be a thought. The light little drift cars, are running 300+ HP, so figure for a Burb at almost twice the weight, at least twice the power...

Weight: LOSE EVERYTHING. A Burb is a pig, and even after you remove all the weight you can, its still a giant brick especially when you get it sideways...

To make a Burb slide, in my opinion? Budget? uhhh no....

i was going to comment but this guy has it all covered

unless you are CRAZY LOADED WITH MORE MONEY THEN GOD?? this project is very unlikely to be effective for its purpose "drifting"...

you would have to have coiled rear, LOTS AND LOTS of weight shed, LOTS AND LOTS of frame work/roll cage, standard trans, solid carbon cluct, etc etc etc etc etc etc...

think about this one for a second... you cannot run power steering if you plan to control anything in a slide. so how many guys including yourself want to drive a MASSIVE HUNK OF A SUBURBAN around town with no power steering??

there are very important factors and reasons why small, light weight, fuel injected, power producing import cars on coils and struts are out on a track drifting and running around town.....

and very important reasons why giant, carb., v8, leaf sprung, torque producing, poor handleing TRUCKS are out there pulling boats, hauling loads and off roading....

imho if you want to "drift"? do like i did and buy a car like this for around $400.00 and your set!

 

[desertrat67]

Twelve months later.....

 

[sandypants]

hmm sounds like it was just talk for him... ah so many threads end up as just ideas on here....

 

[bftank]

i know this is dead, and kinda sad interesting twisted experiment kinda way, cheapest way would be a 3/4t 2wd burb with the 454 th400 drive train. airbag the front and c the rear frame for spring under with sheel tubs. and burn 235/85/r16's all day long. it'd be a good starting point for other things.

 

[cabledawg]

This is kinda old. I remember reading this back when it started and got all excited to see it happen. Oh well. FYI, my wife's Burb can drift a little if I can start the tire spin on something slick. With hers, its all about slinging the weight around. Once the a$$ starts coming around, ya just feather the throttle to keep it going. But its getting the a$$ to come around that's the hard part...........

 

[bftank]

yeah it would have been neat to see a youtube video. i'd be tempted to try it if i didn't have so many other projects already.

 

[dhcomp]

This is kinda old. I remember reading this back when it started and got all excited to see it happen. Oh well. FYI, my wife's Burb can drift a little if I can start the tire spin on something slick. With hers, its all about slinging the weight around. Once the a$$ starts coming around, ya just feather the throttle to keep it going. But its getting the a$$ to come around that's the hard part...........

Sucks to do in our old rigs, but i got the rear end loose in our 96 1500 4wd burb. Stupid little 245's were pretty easy to break loose....and i was in hs.