CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Weird problem with TH400 (see post #79)

So I guess what I need to know now is, what does that vacuum line look like that goes from the trans to the intake manifold? It's metal right? Do I just buy some 1/4" or whatever diameter metal vacuum line and try to bend it or what? I don't even know if that stuff is bendable by hand and I don't have any kind of bender. Does anyone have a pic of the line and the routing of it? Or would a flexible rubber vacuum hose work?

Oh one more thing - what amp fuse should I use for the kickdown switch? Right now I have a 10 amp inline fuse on it. I'm using 16 gauge wire to match what was already there on the parts I salvaged. Is that good enough?
 
The small brake line you find at the auto parts store will be plenty for this in 3/16 size , just bend to fit the contours of both the engine and trans and connect each end with rubber hose. It is very easy to bend by hand, no tool required. Secure it with a couple of zip ties to the dipstick tube up close to the engine .I like to put a small zip tie on the connections also just for added adhesion,be sure and flare the ends of the steel line. A 10 amp fuse is more than enough for the detent solenoid.
 
Hey thanks guys. I know you two are the transmission experts around here. :bow:

It was so HOT today and yesterday that I just didn't feel like going out and finishing up my swap. I went to Lowe's to get some bolts to put the torque converter cover on and the thermometer in my Ford truck read as high as 111* outside. The engine temp was also getting a little higher than I'm comfortable with also. I guess it's time to start working on that truck as soon as I'm through with this one. I decided to wait until the sun went down to get up under the truck, but then the humidity went up. This is what I was faced with right when it was getting dark outside.



05f4eb72.jpg


:eek1:
 
That last picture turned out huge. I mean it was really hot that night but...

I have another pic for all you gurus to look at. Check out the little bluish grayish thing in the center of the pic with a hose coming out of either side. Is this where the vacuum line for the modulator thing needs to attach? Can I just put a T fitting on one of the lines that's already on there or do I need to try to get another outlet thing that has more than one port? Or do they even have those?

be6b0cb0.jpg


I know these may be dumb questions for a guy to ask, but this is the first vehicle I've ever had with an auto trans.
 
That is direct manifold vacuum, the best source for the modulator, tee into this or get a manifold fitting with additional line provisions.
 
All right. I was finally able to finished getting everything hooked up yesterday. It's about time. I just haven't really had the motivation to get out there and do it but I'm glad I did. The brake line worked good I think.

So now on to the dumb question. How much fluid should I put in this thing since it's totally empty? I'm really nervous about over-filling it because I have done that before and had the last transmission start leaking and action wierd and stuff. I don't want that to happen again. So how much do you guys in the know say I should put in this thing? It's an '85 model trans, which apparently has a much deeper pan than normal. It looks like it would hold an extra quart at least. And I know there's two dots and two fill lines on the dip stick. Thing is, I've never once had an auto trans give me a reliable reading on a dipstick. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned with an auto and it seems like voodoo to me still. How many quarts is a good estimate to start with? :dunno: New, empty torque converter too.
 
it will fill the converter, but it takes a while and you don't wanna rev it...
 
I know a 700 will take 11 when empty and empty tc. Dont imagine its much more. I would buy 3 gallons and maybe an extra qt or 2. Or just buy 4 gals and have extra to carry around.
 
12 or so quarts.

i dont fill more than 1/2 capacity before start up. i have seen big air bubbles come out and push massive amounts of fluid up the dipstick tube like a rocket before and make a huge mess.

do 5-6 qrts and fire up in park. fill till within mark on stick. then foot on brake run threw each gear few times. recheck level top off if needed. warm up and check for leaks and time for est drive.
 
It took about 12 and 1/2 quarts to get it up half way up to the hot line when the engine is warm. Is it supposed to go all the way to the hot line or just halfway up the area with the x's on it?

It seems to be doing okay. I went on a couple of test drives and it did pretty good. Had to grind some metal off the crossmember so the front shaft wouldn't rub. It does have a high low gear though. Feels like I'm starting out in second. Plus the kickdown switch isn't working. Please tell me you can replace it without taking the trans back out.

One more question. The transfer case I'm using came out of the same military Blazer as the 400. The place on it where you plug in the speedo cable has some kind of adapter on it. According to my GPS, the speedo is now showing 2.5 mph faster than before. It was dead on with my old case. I didn't think to see what speedo drive gear combo the new one has before I put it in. I just figured they were the same as the old one. Could it be that adapter thing messing me up? What is it?
 
Okay that's what I was thinking. That must be why my speedo is reading 2.5 to 3 mph faster than it was with the old transfer case, which had no adapter. Thanks for telling me that before I took the tailshaft housing off only to discover that the new one had the same gears as the old one.
 
TH400 swap wrap-up

Thought I would just wrap this swap up. Hopefully if there's anyone like me out there doing a search about this swap, this thread will pop up. Keep in mind that I'm not a mechanic and most stuff that I attempt like this ends up being a lot more trouble than it would be for someone who is mechanically inclined. Maybe this will answer some questions.

This is what I started with:

1985 GMC K1500 (half ton) short bed with 4" suspension lift, no body lift
stock carbeurated 305
TH700R4
NP208

The 700 had seen better days. I decided to swap to a TH400. Believe it or not it was pretty close to a "bolt in swap".

This is what I had to come up with for the swap:

1. TH400 from a diesel Blazer (bolted right up to my 305's stock flywheel - most any Chevy TH400 will work.)
2. 32 spline NP208 (from same diesel Blazer, although I could have just changed the input gear on my 27 spline NP208)
3. adapter for TH400 to NP208 (got mine together so no problem)
4. crossmember for the adapter you end up with (I've seen two versions - a short one and a long one)
5. kickdown switch that goes on the throttle pedal and the two-wire connector that hooks to it (One wire goes to 12 volts and the other goes to the kickdown solenoid on the driver's side of the trans.)
6. vacuum line that goes from the vacuum modulator on the passenger's side of the trans to the intake manifold vacuum port behind the carb (I made mine from hard brake line)

That's about it. Here's some things worth noting:

1. I was able to use the same driveshafts as before. It seems like the TH400/NP208 combo is about 3/8" or so longer than the TH700R4/NP208 combo was. Seems like there's more shaft showing on the front driveshaft than before and less on the rear shaft. Not enough to matter though.

2. I used the same trans cooler lines that were already there too. They were a pain to hook up because they went to a slightly different location. I never could get them bent up enough to use the stock location on the torque converter cover with the stock length bolt, so I had to use a longer bolt and a stack of washers to attach the lines to the cover.

3. I didn't get a torque converter cover or a dipstick with my TH400, so I had Imiceman44 send them to me, only to find out when they arrived that they were the exact same as the ones that came off the original TH700R4. Who knew? The bolts to attach the cover to the TH400 were standard thread, but the TH700R4 used metric. I reused the metric bolts from the 700 to attach the supports and cooler lines to the cover, so those holes were metric thread.

4. The dipstick tube from the TH700R4 wouldn't work with the TH400. The holes for the tubes were in different spots on the two trans. I was able to use the tube that came out of the diesel truck; I just had to bend the tab that attaches to the bolt that holds the trans to the engine.

5. I got a stock rebuilt torque converter. I never could find out what the difference (if there is any) was between the diesel converter and the gas one. The converter from the diesel truck had six bolt holes to attach it to the flywheel, but only three of them would line up with the holes in the flywheel on my stock 305. The converter that came out of it with the TH700R4 had only 3 holes. The other 3 looked like they would line up, but they wouldn't quite do it.

6. I had to drill 4 holes in the frame to attach the crossmember. The diesel military Blazer that I got the trans and transfer case from had 1" spacers to drop the transfer case down, so I reused them. I still had to grind some metal off the crossmember under the front driveshaft because it was rubbing.

7. The stock linkage for the column trans shifter bolted right up.

The rest is in this thread. Hopefully some of this info will help someone.

So what are the final results of the swap? When I was first thinking about doing this swap, I heard stuff like "stay with the 700 for the lower first gear and the overdrive." "You're mileage will go down." "Rebuild the 700 or buy a custom 700 from TCI or Bow Tie or whoever." "Your stock 305 won't be able to use the 400." "The first gear on the 400 is so high you won't be able to take off like you were before."

Well the conclusion that I've come to is that the TH400 is way better for me all around than the TH700R4 ever was. It doesn't take off any slower than before. In fact, I think it launches better and gets up to speed quicker now. The mileage around town is better now. I haven't done enough driving out on the road to see if the mileage will go down at highway speeds, but I don't think it will. (I don't think my torque converter on the old trans was ever going into lockup though.) The 400 shifts waaay smoother than the 700 and I don't having problems with engine stalling out like I did before the swap. I don't know how the trans could affect this but it did somehow.

Overall I am quite pleased with the TH400 swap. I know I have a good strong transmisson that I don't have to worry about, the mileage and the
acceleration didn't suffer at all that I can tell. At 55 mph, it sounds like the engine is turning about 300-500 rpm faster than it was when I had an overdrive. No big deal to me.

The only thing I've had a problem with is the connector for the kickdown solenoid falling off the trans, but a new connector will cure that really soon.
 
Top Bottom