big pappa b
3/4 ton status
so I'm saving $3500 there, so I'm really only spending $3450, right?
I like your thinking. You do parts math the way I do
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Well..I pulled the trigger today...BendPak Lift
- Thread starter 73k5blazer
- Start date
I like your thinking. You do parts math the way I do
fyi anyone with a lift needs this drain bucket . I have used a lot of brands over the years but lisle tools I think is the best .
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=442&division=3&category=21
lots of places sell them with free tranny drain pan BIG funnel adaptor catch pan also . it sets right inside the main funnel .
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=442&division=3&category=21
lots of places sell them with free tranny drain pan BIG funnel adaptor catch pan also . it sets right inside the main funnel .
wasted wages
1 ton status
I have to pull out the shelves on the right hand side and move all my crap down into my second storage space.... recenter the lift in the doorway and call it done...
I picked up a Bendpak HD-9XW-B and an RJ-45 rolling jack for normal shop use and discovered an additional use for it.
Gus
Gus
Well, she's installed, kinda.
Far more work than I imagined. Airs line plumbing, concrete grinding, never ending adjusting and tweaking...but...it works....very well.
Now, all I need is for the jackhole door guy to show up who said he would do the job a month ago and convert my door to a high lift door so I can get the additional 5' of lift. I have an 8' door, but the opener sits down another 1' on that, I have 12' ceilings so I'm being pimped out of 5', the difference between I can walk under the car or not. Anyway, that's a minor issue.
This thing is a beast! It does not hesitate, bend, move, have any issues as all.
Far more work than I imagined. Airs line plumbing, concrete grinding, never ending adjusting and tweaking...but...it works....very well.
Now, all I need is for the jackhole door guy to show up who said he would do the job a month ago and convert my door to a high lift door so I can get the additional 5' of lift. I have an 8' door, but the opener sits down another 1' on that, I have 12' ceilings so I'm being pimped out of 5', the difference between I can walk under the car or not. Anyway, that's a minor issue.
This thing is a beast! It does not hesitate, bend, move, have any issues as all.
I picked up a Bendpak HD-9XW-B and an RJ-45 rolling jack for normal shop use and discovered an additional use for it.
Gus
Well, if I'm lucky enough to get a deer this season, my lift might well look just like that!
I have! An 18gal. ranger oil evac on casters. It's very nice. I want ot change everyone's oil now!
I also invested in:
'cause, well, I'm saving money on my GTO transmission job, right..so I need a trans jack...duh...
Maybe you could extend the straight section of door track and add another panel to it to gain another 2 feet?..
These wall mount openers work really well, we used one at my Dads place after we installed the lifts.
A1971Blazer
1/2 ton status
Got the same one from the same company. 14ft high walls on my barn/shop.
Here it is with my F350 4x4 flat bed truck on it for replacing the turbo up pipes. I'm too old to lay on the floor. Easy to get down there.......hard to get up!
Tell me about it. Sometimes I end up there without even trying...
Looking good, got to get me one.
Well, I love this thing.
I finally pulled that transmission out of my '04 GTO today.
It was almost fun, well, not even almost, it was fun!
Followed the GM service manual (which I had them throw in when I bought the car new), remove shifter housing in car, drain, remove cats, remove rest of exhaust (to gain access to prop shaft), remove prop shaft, remove wiring arness, disco slave line, remove starter,support engine with jackstand... support trans with trans jack... remove crossmember and engine to trans bolts....pull back .... that took a little bit, being all alum engine and transmission, I didn't want to break any ears off prying and beating ... just took it slow until it came free of the locating dowels...., rotate 45 degrees to the left, pull back and lower....
All while standing comfortably upright with bright full lights. No laying on your back cold cement, no problems at all except for one broken exhaust manifold stud, par for the salt belt...., I'll have to drill that out and tap it, but that job's pretty easy when you can stand upright and keep your face out of the way!
I finally pulled that transmission out of my '04 GTO today.
It was almost fun, well, not even almost, it was fun!
Followed the GM service manual (which I had them throw in when I bought the car new), remove shifter housing in car, drain, remove cats, remove rest of exhaust (to gain access to prop shaft), remove prop shaft, remove wiring arness, disco slave line, remove starter,support engine with jackstand... support trans with trans jack... remove crossmember and engine to trans bolts....pull back .... that took a little bit, being all alum engine and transmission, I didn't want to break any ears off prying and beating ... just took it slow until it came free of the locating dowels...., rotate 45 degrees to the left, pull back and lower....
All while standing comfortably upright with bright full lights. No laying on your back cold cement, no problems at all except for one broken exhaust manifold stud, par for the salt belt...., I'll have to drill that out and tap it, but that job's pretty easy when you can stand upright and keep your face out of the way!
I was just about to start a thread called "who has a lift at home?" when I spotted this. I have an RV garage at my place, so I have plenty of height for something like this. I too am tired of laying on my back on the concrete.
Looking at the options, I'm not clear on whether any of these could easily lift a vehicle by the frame for suspension work? Can anyone shed some light on that?
A practical concern is that my shop is somewhat narrow, so the posts might make it impossible to get past if there's a vehicle on the lift.
Looking at the options, I'm not clear on whether any of these could easily lift a vehicle by the frame for suspension work? Can anyone shed some light on that?
A practical concern is that my shop is somewhat narrow, so the posts might make it impossible to get past if there's a vehicle on the lift.
most of the time as a mechanic over the years I got by just fine with a 2 post lift .
drive on lift was mostly for the alignments or a quick oil change or something .
if I was to get one I would go with a rotary 12k lbs 2 post lift my self . can lift a prius to a crew cab long bed with no problems.
drive on lift was mostly for the alignments or a quick oil change or something .
if I was to get one I would go with a rotary 12k lbs 2 post lift my self . can lift a prius to a crew cab long bed with no problems.
I've got about 12.5 feet to my rafters. Some of these guys are very tall. How about this?
http://www.revolutionlift.com/RTP9-9000-Pound-Capacity-Two-Post-Lift-P1.aspx
I'm torn though. Sometimes you'd want weight on wheels, sometimes not.
i HATE the cross chain system 
try using a tranny jack or sit on a chain and roll around and work under there . the dam thing gets in the way .
try using a tranny jack or sit on a chain and roll around and work under there . the dam thing gets in the way .
If you want to do suspension work then you want a 2 post lift. These lifts have 2 posts and 4 arms that you position under the frame and when you lift the vehicle the suspension droops. A 4 post lift has 4 posts and two "runways" that you drive on and the vehicle stays on its tires as you lift.
Mine is not a name brand and came from Greg Smith Equipment. They sell all kinds and sizes of lifts. I would compare them to a more expensive Harbor Freight. Like I said earlier in post 15 I am very happy with mine. If I were to buy another one I would buy a heaver one (10 or 12K) since I now have a diesel crew cab pickup but my 9K lifts it.
If I had the cash I would go with a name brand that is certified but for occasional home use like mine sees the Chinese knockoff works just fine.
Whatever you buy just be sure you have enough ceiling height and your concrete is thick enough.
The lift I have was replaced with this model: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-9P
My ceiling is only 12' 4" so I used the lower setting that is just under 12'.
Mine is not a name brand and came from Greg Smith Equipment. They sell all kinds and sizes of lifts. I would compare them to a more expensive Harbor Freight. Like I said earlier in post 15 I am very happy with mine. If I were to buy another one I would buy a heaver one (10 or 12K) since I now have a diesel crew cab pickup but my 9K lifts it.
If I had the cash I would go with a name brand that is certified but for occasional home use like mine sees the Chinese knockoff works just fine.
Whatever you buy just be sure you have enough ceiling height and your concrete is thick enough.
The lift I have was replaced with this model: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-9P
My ceiling is only 12' 4" so I used the lower setting that is just under 12'.
So no way to get two in one? I mean, something where I can choose whether to lift from frame or tires? I like the simplicity and safety factor of the 4 post (no getting the frame spots aligned). And if I want to work on my wife's minivan, don't need to deal with unibody jack points. But I just recently fought with lifting the frame high enough for some suspension work, so that's on my mind too...
You could get a 4 post with the rolling jacks like the OP got. This gets you a 4 post with the 2 "runways" and then you buy "sliding jacks" that sit in steel trays you can position. The jacks can slide front to back and are either hydraulic hand pump or air over hydraulic. This way you can lift up the frame and rotate tires and do suspension work while on the lift. I do not know how high the jacks can lift.
Here is a combo of the 4 post lift and 2 rolling jacks:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000-Two-Atlas-RJ-35s
Keep in mind that those runways always are there and can be in the way when doing suspension work.
I was nervous about positioning the lift arms on the 2 post lift at first but you get used to it.
The up side to the 4 post is it is easier to use and you can store a vehicle on it. 2 post allows better access to pretty much all components.
Edit: 4 posts are also easier to install because you do not have to anchor them to the floor
