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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

So checked fuel pressure with another guage today.
Old Snap on says 4.2, not running. Not sure I trust it, stated @2 hg on vacuum side.
Summit says just under 6psi running.

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Wes Harden said:
Only if I mix in the hot boat gas @ $6+ a gallon. I did it once, on the way back to Ca a year or so ago, not towing. The truck really performed well, seat of pants Dyno
Other wise I think most all the gas stations have blended gas.
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That right there tells you that you have high compression ratio.
When I put high octane fuel in any of my cars there's no difference.
 
I put a new float and needle and seat in the carb today. The seat I installed previously, advertised as .140" orifice, was closer to .150. A .148" drill fit easily. I now have a measured .130" seat, the new ethanol float I bought is for newer qjets. So I used a NOS Delco I had laying around. The box is so old the part number faded, and the was a typed instruction about adjusting float level when changing from brass float. I lowered the float level setting an additional 2/32nds, than published for application. 11/32 + 2/32 =13/32, I just found Edelbrock's settings and it is 15/32nds.
Results are it not as rich, I still have slight trickle of gas from the primary boosters. Air fuel mixtures screws do not change the idle quality, but I am not blowing black soot from tail pipe. Road tested down to Shell station that has AV gas, added 11.8 gl AV to the regular for total of 40 gl. $5.99/9 btw. I did not notice any change in the sounds from the engine. Yes I turned the radio off.

On more exciting surprise note. This morning as I was making my coffee. My dad,who gets up O O dark thirty, informs me he bought a 2 post lift for the RV garage, We pick it up in Phoenix on Monday. The Installer will be here on the 5th. While it is not the Mohawk I was looking at, It should suit my needs, and I am only footing the install bill. I had planned to install myself, but dad has his way of doing things and he is paying for the lift.
https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/atlas-9ohsc-ss-9k-2-post-lift-p/attd-9ohsc-ss.htm

With the hoist done, rv garage needs the loft built, and sink relocation. Then I can get the benches, machines, tool boxes, organized. Then I'll probably add a few wall cabinets.
The 2 car and 1+ car garage already have cabinets ordered, couple more weeks for those.

Forgot to add pic

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Something still isnt right. If you crank the idle mixture screws all the way down, the motor either won't run or will seriously run like crap. 6$ a gal for AV gas isn't bad really considering Super Unleaded at Chevron is over 5.
 
Joel Wilson said:
Something still isnt right. If you crank the idle mixture screws all the way down, the motor either won't run or will seriously run like crap.
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Yeah. The will do that if there’s a vacuum leak, sucking air under the plate, et all
 
It is dripping fuel down the primaries, out of the booster venturi. Is running fat. Leaky throttle shaft would actually help.
I either have high float setting. 2 uncontrolled fuel entering the bowl, loose seat (doubt) bad needle(new), crack in housing at seat, need to investigate.
3 to much fuel pressure. I tested yesterday with 2 different gauges.
One swings 5.9 to 6.1, engine running. The other showed 4.5 static. Holley electric pump rated at 7psi, to Holley pressure regulator with return to tank.
Carb is coming off after this post.
I drove over to drop a 14bff to @K5Devil today.
Started up cold chole set no issues, no polluting the crap out of the garage.
Let idle while hooking up trailer, drive over runs great. Get hang out for awhile. Go to leave, hard to start almost flooded. Get cleared out and head to steel shop. 1/2 way there almost stalls at a stop. Decided to head home, several more stops have to keep it cleared out.
Down hill to @K5Devil and up hill back, hmmm
 
6 psi should be fine, if the float and seat are correct
 
So I took it off air horn off, float needle and seat. dried it all out with brake clean.
Gave the seat threads and seat flange area through inspection. No cracks evident.
Put a small amount of liquid theflon on the seat gasket and threads, put back in. Double checked the torque.
Set the float another 2/32" lower.
Put back on start it up clean out the soot from before.
Have to adjust the idle mixture screws, to keep it running. Good sign.
Check for dribble, just the slightest wetness on the driver side booster. Turn the idle speed screw out and the wetness almost disappears.
Truck will idle in gear @ 520 rpm. @ 600 in park.
Road test tomorrow.

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Road test successful. Took the charity donations, that have been residing in the suburban for a couple of weeks, to drop off.
8 mile round trip with stop for coffee. To hot soak stops, no dieseling, no hard starting.
Now I need the ambition to change out my vacuum leaking booster.

After carb surgery theater mess

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Just read your entire build, tons of Great information here, that lift is going to help you a ton. What year Bronco and Chevelle are you going to build? I might just try and make it to BB22 aswell, but it may be 23.
 
pparker said:
where do you order from? I really dont want to switch everything to run 134 but r12 is pricey. Sucks you had to replace so many times.
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Sorry, I have had this bottle for some time. I was forwarned that R12 was scheduled to be taxed into non existence. I bought 5, 30pd bottles from Price Club, pre Costco.
This last bottle was was at my Ca. home, when I was doing the ac work in AZ .
I am told that ac technicians with MACS certificate can still order R12, as you say is very expensive.
 
pparker said:
Just read your entire build, tons of Great information here, that lift is going to help you a ton. What year Bronco and Chevelle are you going to build? I might just try and make it to BB22 aswell, but it may be 23.
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Thank you my Chevelle is a 66 2 door hard top. Factory A/C and power brake car. Going to get a minor resto mod.
The Bronco is 1969. 302 3 on tree, dual tanks. It will be getting a D44 with disc, power steering, and big bearing 9". Rear fenders where cut long ago, so no lift and 31 10.5 15 tires.
 
Well I went wheeling @ZooMad75 and two of his friends Bill and Jen all great people.
Put the burb in a sand wash got stuck. Bill pulled me out with his Power Wagon. Next day we did some site seeing via a few trails.
Ended up at cafe in Bouse. @ZooMad75 and company headed south and I head north, home.
After @ 40 miles on the trail, I wanted to do a bolt check today.
So spent the afternoon doing that.
Found all the body mounts loose, upper front shackle bracket to frame, engine oil cooler missing 1 bolt and 7 of the 12 loose.
I recently learned of neat work around for door strikers. When the plastic sleeve on striker gets old and breaks, which mine did years ago. Replace it with a peace of PEX. So nice not to have to slam doors.
I bumped up the base timing tonight, we'll see how she runs on the trip to Apple valley tomorrow.
5 gl of AV gas 20 of super, on top the previous AV/super mix. I felt comfortable advancing the timing a couple of degrees, didn't even need to adjust idle speed.
Test drive, the klunck and rattles went away.
Needed maintenance for sure.
 
Wes Harden said:
Well I went wheeling @ZooMad75 and two of his friends Bill and Jen all great people.
Put the burb in a sand wash got stuck. Bill pulled me out with his Power Wagon. Next day we did some site seeing via a few trails.
Ended up at cafe in Bouse. @ZooMad75 and company headed south and I head north, home.
After @ 40 miles on the trail, I wanted to do a bolt check today.
So spent the afternoon doing that.
Found all the body mounts loose, upper front shackle bracket to frame, engine oil cooler missing 1 bolt and 7 of the 12 loose.
I recently learned of neat work around for door strikers. When the plastic sleeve on striker gets old and breaks, which mine did years ago. Replace it with a peace of PEX. So nice not to have to slam doors.
I bumped up the base timing tonight, we'll see how she runs on the trip to Apple valley tomorrow.
5 gl of AV gas 20 of super, on top the previous AV/super mix. I felt comfortable advancing the timing a couple of degrees, didn't even need to adjust idle speed.
Test drive, the klunck and rattles went away.
Needed maintenance for sure.
Click to expand...
Let me know what torq you end up putting body bolts at, im unsure of proper torq, i may pull mine out and use blue loctite while i still have gastank out.

Pictures of the pex striker would be awesome when you do that, i need to touch mine up will be doing within next month or two.
 
pparker said:
Let me know what torq you end up putting body bolts at, im unsure of proper torq, i may pull mine out and use blue loctite while i still have gastank out.

Pictures of the pex striker would be awesome when you do that, i need to touch mine up will be doing within next month or two.
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The PEX fix is the best, easiest fix for strikers and it is cheap too.
You cut the proper length, you slice it length wise, and you slip it on.
Works like a charm
 
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